02 185VS power issues

[David g]

I have a 02 Ranger 185VS with an 02 Merc XR6 which has never given a problem, but today I was pulling her out of the shop to hook up to my truck to go for a weekend trip to Texoma. When I pushed the rocker switch to lift the outboard, all I got was a clicking noise. Uh oh, I had charged the batteries a few days ago so I was a little surprised. I plugged in the onboard stock charger and the two lights for the trolling batteries lit up green and there was no light shining for the cranking battery. I pulled the battery and tested with a Volt Ohm meter and got a reading of 13 volts. Everything worked flawlessly the last time out but it has been a couple of months since ran. Where would be the first place you would look? I thought it might be a ground, just wondering if anyone knows where the ground is on the Mercury or some other place I should look. Any all all input is appreciated.
David

[jc2bg]

Very possibly a trim relay or other component of the tilt/trim mechanism. Try posting on the Mercury outboards forum, as well.

[xcoach]

I have the same motor, replaced the trim relays, trust me you don’t want that to happen at the ramp loading up your boat.

[xcoach]

Those two boxed shaped relays are on the starboard side of your motor.

[David g]

Motor doesn't spin to start when I engage the key so apparently no power there either. Also, I was thinking that trim relay issues would not cause the battery charger light not to illuminate. Seems like I have a hot battery with reduced power getting to the outboard.

[cwilt]

You have a talon on the boat? It pulls some voltage. Any lights left on?

[David g]

I solved the issues but still a few questions. The cranking battery is a group 24 1000 CCA unit over two years old, Wal Mart battery. My multimeter showed 13 volts but I had it load tested and it failed with 9.8 Volts under load. Bought a new Group 27 Battery to replace and ordered a new battery tray. Hooked up the battery to the cables including OBC on the rear deck and everything works. Plugged in the charger and a bit later the light turns green.....hooooray. Fifteen minutes later the charger light goes back to red. I disconnected the charging terminals from the battery and tested with my meter, zilch.....I scrubbed the terminals together disconnected from the battery and nothing. I assume with the battery disconnected there still should be power at these terminals so I suspect my charger has one bank inoperative. Suppose unless there is something I don't understand I will need a new charger. Battery was bad but also charger.......Thanks to all. Would be interested in suggestions for a new OBC if it is as i expect, bad bank.
David G

[jc2bg]

David, I’ve reported this one before, but you may not have heard it. A couple of years ago, my on-board charger wasn’t charging on one bank, so replaced the charger, only to have the new charger fail on the same bank a couple of days later. Eventually, we discovered that my battery—which also tested above 12 volts—had a bad cell, which in turn was frying the charger bank connected to it. Now that you have replaced the battery, chances are extremely good that a new charger will fix you up.

[Casslaw]

Change your leads to see if the bad lead on the charger follows. Since you have a new battery now you can do this.

My suggestion, you can get by without a charger lead to your cranking battery if your motor keeps it charged. Make sure you keep your TM batteries charged. If your charger is under warranty, send it in. The bad cell in your old battery most likely toasted that lead of your charger.

You can charge your cranking battery with a portable charger between trips. Either get a new onboard charger or see if yours can be fixed. A call to the company with your serial/model number should be enough to have them tell you if it can be fixed as compared to replaced.

Glad you have a better, stronger, new cranking battery! One problem always leads to another!

[David g]

Thanks to all. Chicken or the egg. I don't know which was bad first but my guess is that the battery was bad first because the charger has been vacillating from green back to red for several months as it seemed as though my battery was not lasting long (even though I installed a Helix 10). The charger is the original Three Bank Pro Series as installed by Ranger. Curious to know if with the charger terminals disconnected from the batter and powered up, should I get the 10 amps on my multimeter? I can also post in electrical. And yes, until I replace the charger, I will have to use a remote charger. Good news is that the trolling battery banks work fine.

[jc2bg]

David, you can also install a separate, single-bank charger in your boat just for the cranking battery, if push comes to shove. Use a two-way plug to charge all your batteries at the same time [via 2 chargers]. Single-bank chargers are less expensive than replacing the 3-bank—again, only if you are forced to replace the original charger and don’t want to keep using a portable charger. Personally, I think I’d just use the portable charger, unless I was on the road an awful lot and didn’t want the hassle of carrying it around.

[David g]

Well, may seem I am crazy but hooked the charger back up to my new battery. Charged for a bit and got a green light. The charger works. Happy day. Learned a bit more because I thought it should be charging when power applied. Evidently there has to be some voltage on the battery to initiate the charger to switch internally to began charging. Who says you can't teach an old dog?
David G