? For experienced chine walk drivers

[itsahog]

OP,
The prop you have listed in your sig seems too small for the rig/HP. Sometimes that will encourage a boat to walk. I would think you could turn a 26 with that rig, no???

today I raised the prop to 2.5“. I was turning around 5600 rpm at 66 mph. Chine walk started around 62 mph. I was thinking about having the prop tune, maybe I should look at a 24 pitch? All advice is welcome.

[mdtritn21]

That boat and motor won't turn a 26" prop like a 2 stroke may but he needs to pick up a lot of rpm's to get closer to 6200. I think a good B&B might help him.

[Savage]

Prop tuning IS not the answer. Put in the rough set-up and learn to drive, once you learn how to drive you could start spending money to get every last bit of performance. Prop work will not stop or lessen the chine walk. The driver is the only person that can stop the chine walk BEFORE it begins to occur.

[itsahog]

That boat and motor won't turn a 26" prop like a 2 stroke may but he needs to pick up a lot of rpm's to get closer to 6200. I think a good B&B might help him.

What is B&B? As far as RPMs are concerned, I was only at 5600 but I could not achieve full trim. I’m pretty sure if I could get full trim with wide-open throttle I will be pushing 6000 RPMs and 70 mph, I just can’t get there with the chine walk. One question, should I keep raising the motor as long as I have good water pressure and keep gaining RPMs? I have to be getting close, I am estimated I am around 2.5“ PTP now.

[crank68]

As stated above I’d get the set up close and put the seat time in.....

[bware]

I drive with my left hand at 9 or 10 o’clock. If chine walk starts I time out one small but quick tap on the wheel left just as boat oscillates to right. Chine walk stops, but may come back again in a few seconds. If so I repeat. If I do nothing the chine walk gets severe/scary/dangerous. But if I do these steering corrections all is good. It has since become second nature to the point I don’t even know I’m doing it and I can drive WOT at full trim. One thing I remember is that when I was learning, driving into the wind was easier, chine walk was less frequent and minimized. Another thing I remember was switching to a 4 blade Trophy made it easier too. Be patient and careful, you’ll get there.

[bware]

Also, if you don’t have any gear in the front compartments chine walk will be more evident and pronounced.

[Fishysam]

this is an example of what I was saying is confusing.... You’re saying when it tilts to the left to steer to left other replies are saying just the opposite. I guess every boat is different or I just don’t quite get it. I’m probably just interpreting this wrong , I appreciate the replies.

So if your not wide open throttle but steer left or right (for an entire circle) the boat leans some. In a left turn the right side is higher so if the boat is bouncing left side down you need to twitch to the right (so I said it backwards) unless you are slow at interpreting what the hull is doing then you will be right on. The day it clicked for me is one time I literally did the exact opposite of what I had been doing and pow it works right.

something you can try is when you start getting past 63mph you can start twitching the steering both ways in a calm stable man or still trying to go straight and you won't walk near as bad as the boat isn't just balancing on the pad but slowly and calmly transferring from left to right sides of the pad.

mamas far as chine walk goes in my book a little wobble isn't bad it is bad when the side of the hull hit the water, then bounces to the other side and repeat that's when it is bad. But honestly I don't experience any of this anymore till I let a friend run it. It just clicks now and I stop it before it happens.

[Caddis001]

I've had about 10 hours seat time in my196. As these guys are saying - relax, make small corrections and you'll push through it. When I did it right, in that 10th hour, it was an amazing ride.

[Great Scott]

The biggest cause of CW is the motor is
to deep in the water
or the boat is out of balance. If you boat walks less w/a passenger
then you need to add ballast to the passenger side when solo.
Once you have calmed it down w/weight then raise the motor
a 1/4" to a 1/2"at a time until you can determine a positive or negative change.
LDS

[87gtNOS]

raise the motor higher...

[itsahog]

Talk to a guy today said the only correction should be to the left, that the boat will come back to the right by itself. Is this correct? So theoretically my only correction should be to the left and let the boat go back on it’s own? I can’t wait to get on the water to figure this out, I’m looking forward to it.

[itsahog]

raise the motor higher...

i am 2.25” below pad. I don’t really think raising the motor more will be beneficial

[itsahog]

The biggest cause of CW is the motor is
to deep in the water
or the boat is out of balance. If you boat walks less w/a passenger
then you need to add ballast to the passenger side when solo.
Once you have calmed it down w/weight then raise the motor
a 1/4" to a 1/2"at a time until you can determine a positive or negative change.
LDS

I will pay attention to the balancing theory, I may have some room to improve that. But my prop is already only 2.25 inches below the pad

[sixpack1]

I just add weight to the left side by filling my live well. That will help with your weight distribution and counter balance the left side...

[itsahog]

I just add weight to the left side by filling my live well. That will help with your weight distribution and counter balance the left side...

In my Triton 18TRX, the left and right side live well are not isolated, they are separated by a divider, you can’t just fill one or the other. That said, time in the seat has done wonders, I can drive the boat pretty comfortably up to about 67 miles an hour. Each time out it gets easier. I don’t really think too much about it anymore to be honest. All the advice I got here was very helpful.

[87gtNOS]

i am 2.25” below pad. I don’t really think raising the motor more will be beneficial

Yes, go higher! Mine smoothed right out at 1" BELOW!! The lower you are, the more chine walk you gonna get.

At 1" below I am losing water pressure, so I will run at 1.5" below.

[87gtNOS]

Talk to a guy today said the only correction should be to the left, that the boat will come back to the right by itself. Is this correct? So theoretically my only correction should be to the left and let the boat go back on it’s own? I can’t wait to get on the water to figure this out, I’m looking forward to it.

Gentle strokes of the steering wheel to the left....gentle. You will all of a sudden feel what is happening.

[Greentrout]

It is almost like you put the boat in a slight long left hand turn.....

This is how I learned to drive my Triton. I went to the lower part of Lake Cumberland. There's open water that's probable 5 miles long and 1 mile wide. I filled the port live well up to help balance the boat and started driving. When the boat would start to walk, I would start a slight left turn until the boat stopped walking. I countinued doing this until I could drive the boat at that speed in a straight line, then I started increasing speed. Go sometime that you will pretty much have the lake to yourself and burn a tank of gas.

[Jigman78]

I have a 97 tr21 with a 2018 225 proxs. I have a hydraulic jackplate with makes it easier to drive. With me and a full tank and 2 talons. I can run 74 if I want to drive it. But I can tap the jackplate up slow down to 71ish and not have to drive it. But as far as driving it to correct the chime walk just easy pulls to the left is all you got to do. Lots of people over think it or react. Just learn how to drive it. And you will see it's not that bad.