My son was flipping some grass the other day using 50lb Power Pro. He broke the line when pulling it out of the grass when his bait got hung up. He uses a snell knot with a 1.25 oz tungsten weight and a bobber stop above. Should he use a bobber stop below? The snell know keeps the weight from pounding on the knot, so I'm not sure that would help.
Was the line frayed? Could have been a nick inside the weight that eventually wore/cut the braid.
I use a small bead between the hook and weight.
Justin Scott
Rocket
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Honestly,I would lose the Power Pro,had a few issues with bad batches of it..switched to Suffix 832 for flipping
Sounds like the line had a knick or fray in it. If he's using that weight, I'd 100% step up to 65# braid.
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Mercury 250 4S ProXS
Originally Posted by cbr900racer22
Fitzgerald™ sells 'Flipping Beads' (silver in color) which are priced more than the multi-colored beads You can find in the Crafts section of Chinamart™ .. I figured it was a waste when Trevor talked about the beads and their new Braid, until I tried it and Punching is one of a couple different techniques that pay off here year round. It serves a couple different purposes and when used correctly can mimic the sounds a Crayfish makes in the rocks. The colored bead breaks up the color of the bait or adds color to the presentation.
Depending on what kind of grass it is pulling against (friction)..
I run a Bobber stop (or 2 depending on weight) ; then weight; then bead(s) then Hook tied by a Snell knot.
The Snell knot provides a cantilever action on the hook and 'many times' (not all) the Angler will get tangled up and they'll YANK on the line so any fraying will be found SNAP!!!..
The aforementioned Beads:
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Fitz...page-FFFB.html
Some Fitzgerald™ Braid: (It is on 'Blow Out'...)
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Fitz...page-FFVB.html
Good advice above. One additional thing that's sort of related (and what fishballer mentioned) is that I think sometimes those tungsten weights end up with little burrs or other imperfections that can cause this. I've taken to just adding an insert to all of them from 1/2 oz and up, especially as easy as it turns out to be and for as expensive as the tungsten can be (and as expensive as lost rigs and fish can be).
Wesley Strader has the best video I've seen showing how it's done:
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
Thanks! Very helpful info. I was wondering if a burr in the weight might be the culprit.
Very good chance your knot slipped. Same thing was posted here before. You can't tell by looking at it like mono.
LEGEND ALPHA 199DCX / 225 PRO XS MERCURY
I'd bet money it was the tungsten. That's why I only use tungsten with an insert
We occasionally have down time at work so I will take hooks and various lines to tie/play with. Using a certified scale and pushed to breakage I have come to the conclusion the WAY the knot is tied makes nearly as much difference as the type of knot for strength. Granted, some knots are more consistant and easier to tie, but I tied fast 'get it done' and slow and careful with a bunch of different types and had the numbers jump around quite a bit. Dry and wet made a big difference too as in probably overheating or stressing the line at the knot.
Could have been any of that for your breakage or fraying as has been stated.
Did you find that held true with braid as well? I've definitely noticed that happening with mono and especially with fluoro, but never with braid. Then again, I can't recall the last time I broke off with braid where it wasn't due to a toothy critter (and I've probably just jinxed myself with that).
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
'Yes' with some knots, but I was tying with 6lb, 12lb and 20lb braid so I could break it fairly easily. The heavier stuff might take a knot better. It was not as bad as the mono or floro about knots but it DID seem to make a difference if I paid close attention to how the knot loops were laid on each other. I know I am not all that careful if I am in the boat and I need to tie on quickly. It was actually kind of frustrating with some of the drop shot loops how picky they were about the knot loops being laid correctly to keep good strength.
Floro was the worst overall and I have pretty much stopped using it. I know some like it but watching it break at half to three quarters strength was enough for me. The Blood Knot, Snell and Palomar were all 'generally' pretty good and consistent, not to mention easy and quick to tie.
Keep in mind that this is for ME, and how I tie my knots, though I have a couple knot apps on my phone with animated instructions even I can follow!
I used to tie a Palomar on everything. I had it break once or twice during a couple tournaments. My tournament partner told me that a Palomar is a great knot, IF you are very careful when tying it not to get the lines crossed so that one lays on top of the other. If they lay on top of each other, the top one can easily cut the bottom line, resulting in the knot breaking. A Palomar can be tied without crossing the lines, but it takes time to tie it right and I'd rather not take that much time when on the water. So, I did the same thing you did and played around tying knots and found that, just as may tournament partner suggested, the Uniknot can be quickly tied and is just as strong as the Palomar. I've tied nothing but a Uniknot since.
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Send the line through the eye twice and its even stronger.
Try the Miller Knot... This is the one I tie now because it is easier; stronger and can be tied in a 3 club wind and goes through the eye 2x (always through the back unless on a Snell knot) Then the aforementioned Beads also provides 'cover' for the line through the hook-eye.
Last edited by LewStulePH.D.; 11-15-2019 at 08:11 PM.
The one I mentioned is stronger than the Miller knot.
Which one did You mention? I'd think a 'Triple Loop' would be stronger too, but since I've been tying the knot I showed I haven't broken any line and I've gone as low as 8# Mono on my Topwater applications.
You typed 'send the line through twice and it is stronger'
TO THE OP: DO the one QuakenShake mentioned, when You figure out which one that is?? I'll stick w/the Miller knot.
I quoted and highlighted the text to which my statement was directed you have to follow along.
A through the eye twice uni knot is called the fishnfool knot and has been tested to be stronger than the miller knot by independent source.
I broke off 50 lb braid more than i care to tell switched to 65 and dont have a problem
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