97 175 Fast Strike Issues

[HydraSport205]

I have had this rig for 15 years or so and just recently started to have some issues. Starting this season an issue developed where the boat would start and idle great but at WOT, it struggled to get on plane and would bog out at WOT. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who worked on it on 2 separate occasions. He first replaced the power pack, plug wires, plugs and the optical sensor. The motor still ran bad so I took it back to him. He then replaced the Stator and disconnected the VRO (he did this somewhat on his own, it was oiling fine prior; he stated that he thought maybe the VRO was bad so he disconnected it and plugged it). After I got the boat back, the WOT problem was gone, it runs like a scalded dog on the top end but it struggled to idle and low speed was not good. I only ran it a few times like this and was hoping that it was an overmix since the VRO was disconnected and the premix ratio was thought to be rather rich. As the weather turned colder, the last two times out I had a really hard time to get it to start at all, and this past weekend it wouldnt start at all. I got it home and dug into it. I saw where he had disconnected the oil inlet to the VRO and also disconnected a wiring harness on the VRO along with a 2 wire circuit that I am assuming is an oil tank sensor. I reconnected the VRO oil line and plugged both wiring harnesses back up. I threw some muffs on it and it cranked and ran almost immediately. I am not sure why disconnecting the VRO pump would cause it not to run at all. The only real side affect I notice with the VRO re-connected is that I have a constant low oil alarm on the tach. Any idea what is going on? The oil tank is probably 1/4th of the way full. When the alarm sounds, it stays on for a long period of time, I would say 20+ seconds and the only light lit on the tach is the low oil light.

Thanks for any insight.

[omcforever]

Model number????? Need a new outboard tech/repair shop also.

[ChampioNman]

Low oil light will be on at 1/4 tank need to add more oil for it to go out. Muffs aren't going to tell you much how your performance will be. I'd be checking the carbs for leaks.

[Bassmeister]

Did you reprime the oil system before start up?

[HydraSport205]

Model number????? Need a new outboard tech/repair shop also.

First, thanks to you guys for the replies!

I believe it is a J175GLECD. I unfortunately didnt uncover the level of incompetence until he had me for over $1000.

I suspected a carb issue as well, there are visible cracks in the bowls, he said they were fine...They have had the cracks in them for a long time, long before the top end problem surfaced. Not saying they dont need replacing as they certainly do. I am not sure that I can handle the carb job on my own. Seems alot of stuff to take apart AND get back together correctly.

Anyway, no, I didnt prime the oil line, I will do that this weekend. Is that as simple as just unhooking it from the VRO and pumping the oil primer until the oil comes out and then plug it back in? The tank has premix in it so I assume by not priming it, no damage was done? I ran it for less than a minute on the muffs after re-connecting the VRO oil line.

Also, I tried another fuel line primer bulb that I had laying around with no change. The replacement is not a BRP so I have ordered a BRP one with the yellow fittings, should be here by the weekend.

I am still perplexed why it would not run with the VRO disconnected. Of all that the hack mechanic did, he did solve the top end problem, I am confused as to what exactly has transpired here.

[Bassmeister]

First, thanks to you guys for the replies!

I believe it is a J175GLECD. I unfortunately didnt uncover the level of incompetence until he had me for over $1000.

I suspected a carb issue as well, there are visible cracks in the bowls, he said they were fine...They have had the cracks in them for a long time, long before the top end problem surfaced. Not saying they dont need replacing as they certainly do. I am not sure that I can handle the carb job on my own. Seems alot of stuff to take apart AND get back together correctly.

Anyway, no, I didnt prime the oil line, I will do that this weekend. Is that as simple as just unhooking it from the VRO and pumping the oil primer until the oil comes out and then plug it back in? The tank has premix in it so I assume by not priming it, no damage was done? I ran it for less than a minute on the muffs after re-connecting the VRO oil line.

Also, I tried another fuel line primer bulb that I had laying around with no change. The replacement is not a BRP so I have ordered a BRP one with the yellow fittings, should be here by the weekend.

I am still perplexed why it would not run with the VRO disconnected. Of all that the hack mechanic did, he did solve the top end problem, I am confused as to what exactly has transpired here.

You need to pump the oil bulb until the oil comes out and then plug the hose onto the connector. After clamping it tight then run the engine on the hose while still pumping the bulb to get all air bubbles out.....

[316jughead]

[QUOTE=Bassmeister;10631939]You need to pump the oil bulb until the oil comes out and then plug the hose onto the connector. After clamping it tight then run the engine on the hose while still pumping the bulb to get all air bubbles out.....[/QUOTE

To purge air out of the oil line, I pump the bulb before you hook the line up. Pump oil into a container, I pump about 50 times, just to make sure no air. With oil to the end of the oil line connect it up, but do not pump again, when you start the motor and the no oil warning stops, this checks the self priming of the pump. With the oil line not being removed there shouldn't be much air in the line.

[headhigh]

The fact that it ran good for 15 years means you were doing something right. Get that VRO hooked back up and primed, then rebuild those carbs. It's not a hard job to do, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, I'd recommend anyone other than your old mechanic. If I lived closer to "Defeated", Tenn. I'd come by and give you a hand.

[ford4wd08]

I know a good OMC mechanic in East TN if you are need of one. He is mostly a mobile mechanic guy that does carb rebuilds and servicing. You might can work something out with him if you are hard up finding a good OMC guy.

[HydraSport205]

The fact that it ran good for 15 years means you were doing something right. Get that VRO hooked back up and primed, then rebuild those carbs. It's not a hard job to do, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, I'd recommend anyone other than your old mechanic. If I lived closer to "Defeated", Tenn. I'd come by and give you a hand.

I feel ok with the actual rebuild part, it is getting them off and back on that makes me nervous. I might tackle it, just a little uneasy.

Thanks, yes it is really called Defeated!

[HydraSport205]

Finding a good mechanic is proving to be tough in this neck of the woods. PM me his info if you get time, I appreciate it.

thanks for the priming info, I will get the tank full and prime it This weekend and post my results.

it is supposed to turn pretty chilly this weekend, not sure I will dunk it in the lake but will do a preliminary muff test in the driveway.

thanks again for all the help y’all, appreciate the info.

[HydraSport205]

I removed the oil tank and cleaned it, it was actually spotless on the inside, zero sludge in the bottom and the filter was in great condition. Put it back together, primed the VRO and replaced the fuel primer bulb. She ran great on the muffs and no low oil alarm. I ran out of daylight for a lake test. Carbs are definitely leaking, I am going to tackle bowl replacement as well as overall rebuild once the weather warms up a little. I feel like she will be back to prime time following completion. Thanks again for the advice.

[Bassmeister]

Just remember to remove the high speed orifices from the old bowls and transfer to the new ones.....

[omcforever]

Just remember to remove the high speed orifices from the old bowls and transfer to the new ones.....

And use only OE/BRP parts and get a real OMC/BRP repair manual,,not Clymer or Seloc..

[316jughead]

You will need to rebuild the Vapor Separator Tank (VST) and a new diaphragm and o ring in the VST pump. So often overlooked but a very important part of the fuel system.

[twitch]

any follow up results from this issue or is it still doing the same thing???

[HydraSport205]

It ran about the same on the lake. I had a hard time starting it with the motor trimmed down. I trimmed it up to get the mouth of the prop close to the surface and it did start but it still doesnt like to idle much. Once she goes into gear and I get the RPMs up a bit, she runs great and gets on plane very nicely; top end is top notch.
I had some delays with the holidays and such. I just got it inside the garage to start working on it. I will be ordering carb kits and new bowls momentarily. I also need to rebuild the primer solenoid, it leaks out the front as well.

I have a genuine OMC service manual.

[twitch]

Keep us posted curious about the progress

[BigFishSteve]

I agree, don’t overlook the VST. it can produce many of the “heat soak” symptoms.

[HydraSport205]

Finally got my kits to replace bowls and other parts that come in the rebuild kits. Having trouble getting to some areas so far on starboard side down low. I figured if I can remove the lower pan off the motor it would make things alot easier. I found 3 bolts accessible from the outside of the lower pan that I removed but that sucker wont come apart to the point I am afraid that if I keep pulling on it something is going to break. Any pointers on lowering that lower pan/cowl area to get me some more room to get to the lower carbs?