What size chords are you using for on board chargers? Also do you use agfci,or arc fault ci,?
What size chords are you using for on board chargers? Also do you use agfci,or arc fault ci,?
Thank you very much. However the outlet type is still having me to consider using an arc fault circuit interrupter. I only have two outlets in my garage, with a 15 amp breaker. I have only popped the gfci about six times. I am thinking about running another 20 amp circuit so I'm not having too many items plugged into both outlets.
I run probably a 75 foot 14 gauge, to a mk315D
been doing it for years 24/7
No problems
Shortest, thickest one you have! I don’t plug mine into the GFCI outlet but I did run 2 outlets on their own 30amp breaker for my deer freezer, the other I use for my onboard charger.
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
GFCIs prevent shocks and AFCIs prevent fires.
You could plug a 3 way splitter into the end of any extension cord, and use it to read the voltage applied to your charger. Id you have sufficient input power at charge, you're O.K.
Who ever wired my house should be subjected to enough electrical shocks that he would think twice about being an electrician. Circuits are split in just about every room in the house, and only the major appliances are labeled. The garage shares a 15 amp circuit with the outside lights both front and back. And then the garage door is spliced into a way switch that is shared by another 3 way switch in the kitchen. I can't believe that the inspector passed this. Well...yeah I can $$$. He and the electrician are still working. We just had an inspection by the electric company, wasn't cheap!! But now we are looking at a major upgrade. First Energy is having a crew come to trace the system. We have been told that we're lucky to not have had a fire!! Several outlets have been burned due to the last one on the run not being grounded. The price is going to be much more than we thought. I asked the company rep,about this. He gave us some forms to fill out that could offset some of the cost. He then suggested we talk with PUCO. Gave us the number and who to talk to. We have been talking about how our house is going to be such a disaster, and couldn't imagine the mess. After meeting with everyone involved we have been assured that there won't be any where near the mess we thought. Just figuring out how the wires are run and then pulling new wires into a new circuit box. A state inspector is looking at some other homes that the company and inspector have worked on. I asked how long this will take. We were told about 3 days, one to trace and two to rewire, and upgrading everything. Since our house was built in 95,there have been many changes in the codes. And we won't to pay all of November's bill. We probably will be involved in a multi class action suit, my neighbor asked me what was going on? When I told him, he got this weird look. And said they had the same crew and similar issues. I told him, well...here we go! Another long ass drawn out waste of time and money! I've been through this before. First Energy is going to handle make sure that everyone involved is compensated to defer the costs. We'll see! Next Tuesday things get underway. The utility company has a list of the houses that these people worked on.
Crestliner, I think you owe your boat a wash and wax! It may have saved you or your family from something far worse than a mess or expense. Who knows maybe your neighbors too! Glad there were no serious problems before. Bob
Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go
Thanks. We have had some good news this morning. More than a dozen homes were wired by the same people, and short cuts were taken in every one. Since our house was built in 95/96 there is a time frame to make a difference. Even though, we have been getting some respectable offers for assistance. Several lines have been corrected, but that is temporary. A new breaker box is now sitting in the basement. We have been told that rewiring will not be a problem. Most of the houses in the report are fine, with just some minor upgrades. I have a new Minn kota 330pc. After next week I will have four outlets on an arc fault circuit. Just a matter of time for the electrician to get over here, he said it would only take about 2/3 hours. He's bringing an extension cord, thrown in by a local fire department. I had recently replaced our smoke alarms to a combination with co2. That is when I ran into my little buddies, (recluse spiders) bit me 4 times, by several. I am thankful for the every one that has helped us get our house up to code. The guys that are responsible have not been working as we were told. So not sure about that aspect and not an issue anymore.
When using an extension cord always use the shortest length possible as well as the largest wire gauge possible (the lower the gauge number the larger diameter wire). Compare an extension cord to a garden hose. The larger the diameter of the hose the more water that will pass through with with less pressure loss. This pressure loss can be compared to the resistance in an electrical wire. The diameter of the wire and the length of this wire determines resistance. Higher amperage devices use a larger amount of current and therefore create greater resistance. Resistance can create heat in a wire. A good example of this is an electric oven or a toaster. When using an extension cord that is marginal in size I always feel the cord. If it is getting warm the diameter of the cord (meaning the gauge of the wire) is too small for the application. This is how fires start. Using a 100' cord to power a device 3' away is creating excessive resistance. In this case shorter and bigger is better.
I am just asking?Originally Posted by Casslaw
Most outlets are powered by # 12 wire........recommended for max 20 amps.
If your outlets are #12 and you have 30 amp breaker......your wire may be your breaker?
Maybe you ran #10?
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