oil fault alarm HELP!!

[parttimefishing]

Morning, Ive been getting a low oil alarm on my mercmonitor since ive installed it on my 96 Champion with 2004 Merc 225 EFI SN# OT944657. I have the remote oil tank with a new sender and my monitor has the fuel/oil harness and a new tank on the engine. Neither tanks are ever low but i get an alarm almost constancy. Yesterday i got a Oil Fault alarm and it went into guardian mode. Nothing was wrong and the boat still runs great. I did a reset of the monitor on the water but that didnt change anything. Any tips or pointers would be great.
THANKS

[Savage]

Bypass the level sensor on the RESERVE tank temporarily and see if the problem stops.

[parttimefishing]

ill try that. Just unplug it or go into the settings and turn it off?

[Savage]

The reserve reservoir tank is on the motor. Wires need jumpered going to the sensor.

[digthemup]

Morning, Ive been getting a low oil alarm on my mercmonitor since ive installed it on my 96 Champion with 2004 Merc 225 EFI. I have the remote oil tank with a new sender and my monitor has the fuel/oil harness and a new tank on the engine. Neither tanks are ever low but i get an alarm almost constancy. Yesterday i got a Oil Fault alarm and it went into guardian mode. Nothing was wrong and the boat still runs great. I did a reset of the monitor on the water but that didnt change anything. Any tips or pointers would be great. THANKS

If you are getting the 4 beeps every 2 min alarm, even though you can clearly see that both tanks are full, it is the crappy magnet in your motor reservoir tank that has broken off the float do to very poor design. You can test it by pulling out new tank sender, and use a magnet toward the upper part and that will stop the alarm, while running it on hose or in water. Once you have confirmed that it is the magnet, call Rhonda at European AM give her your serial number and she will send you a new tank to replace the 1 with the bad magnet like I did on my 2003 225 EFI last month. Replace the tank with new 1, fill it 2/3 of way leave cap off. Start motor on hose and let it run until the new reservoir tank starts to overflow, at which time you put the cap on it nice and tight. Further, if the tank does not overflow, you need to replace your crankcase pressure check valve (lower Starboard side of your intake), which was the other thing that I had to do, and you can check that with a Vacuum/pressure gauge specs is 2-3 psi. BTW Rhonda has that valve also, and you will be out a little over 150.00 if you need both.
Oh BTW, DO NOT disconnect any of your alarms, other than test purposes, since there is a very important reason they are there, saving your motor.

[digthemup]

The reserve reservoir tank is on the motor. Wires need jumpered going to the sensor.

Savage,
that is a good way to get the alarm to stop, and helped me finish my club tourney. However, unless you pull out the sender and test it for continuity and do the magnet test, many people end up replacing sending sensor, and still have problem like Partimefishing. The idiot that designed the tank glued the magnet on the bottom of float, which when it comes apart it just sits at the bottom giving false reading. If it had been on top of float, it would have been NP, even if unglued.
BTW, I made the jumper with 2 bullet connectors and a piece of 14g wire from old extension cord.

[parttimefishing]

I'll check that float sometime this week
I hope that's not the issue because that's a new tank. Maybe 6 months old.

[digthemup]

I'll check that float sometime this week
I hope that's not the issue because that's a new tank. Maybe 6 months old.

Anything thing is possible with today's crap or old stock that's been sitting around from when Jesus walked the earth.
Make the jumper like Savage and I said, and place it in, if that eliminates the alarm, drain tank down little less than half, take old steel coat hanger bent a 90* at cut end to lift up float inside tank, look if there is a black ring sitting at bottom of shaft, which would be the magnet.
The magnet on the sending sensor it the easiest way, once you have determined that you have continuity and sensor is good.

[SilverFox579]

The reserve reservoir tank is on the motor. Wires need jumpered going to the sensor.

^^^^

[EuropeanAM]

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the REQUIRED info when posting. Thanks!

Additionally- there are a NUMBER of items that can cause the warning you described, Low oil Level just happens to be ONE of the dozens of possibilities!

The BEST method is to get it on the Computer Diagnostic System for PRINTOUTS of the Run History and Freeze Frame (Fault) History. THEN utilize that information to determine what particular sensor, circuit or device is at fault.

[digthemup]

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the REQUIRED info when posting. Thanks!

Additionally- there are a NUMBER of items that can cause the warning you described, Low oil Level just happens to be ONE of the dozens of possibilities!

The BEST method is to get it on the Computer Diagnostic System for PRINTOUTS of the Run History and Freeze Frame (Fault) History. THEN utilize that information to determine what particular sensor, circuit or device is at fault.

Sorry Don, I didn't mean to overstep trying to help, since it sounded so much like the issue I had a few weeks ago, which you help me resolve.
Though, I did not consider the possibility of other functions, which involve the 4 beeps every 2 min, other than oil reservoir or water separator alarm, as you have just pointed out.

[parttimefishing]

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the REQUIRED info when posting. Thanks!

Additionally- there are a NUMBER of items that can cause the warning you described, Low oil Level just happens to be ONE of the dozens of possibilities!

The BEST method is to get it on the Computer Diagnostic System for PRINTOUTS of the Run History and Freeze Frame (Fault) History. THEN utilize that information to determine what particular sensor, circuit or device is at fault.

Thanks Don, im actually going to get the print out hopefully this weekend. ill let you know what i find.

[parttimefishing]

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the REQUIRED info when posting. Thanks!

Additionally- there are a NUMBER of items that can cause the warning you described, Low oil Level just happens to be ONE of the dozens of possibilities!

The BEST method is to get it on the Computer Diagnostic System for PRINTOUTS of the Run History and Freeze Frame (Fault) History. THEN utilize that information to determine what particular sensor, circuit or device is at fault.

DON, i was able to get the fault history and it appears to be a bad float switch in the bulk oil tank in the boat. i have since turned off the oil tank setting on my smartcraft until i can get a new sendor ( if i ever actually replace it ) the reservoir tank on the engine is still working properly and is being filled from the bulk tank so no issues there.

[EuropeanAM]

Daniel- you still need to provide your Engine's Serial Number (please add it to the FIRST post in this thread). Thanks!

Before you decide the float switch is bad, make sure it is properly ORIENTED. The float MUST point LENGTHWISE in the tank.

The below picture denotes how it should be oriented:

[digthemup]

Daniel- you still need to provide your Engine's Serial Number (please add it to the FIRST post in this thread). Thanks!

Before you decide the float switch is bad, make sure it is properly ORIENTED. The float MUST point LENGTHWISE in the tank.

The below picture denotes how it should be oriented:

Hey Don,
I looked at this here picture for several minutes, and went to look at bulk tank in my 2002 Cobra 201 DC with 2003 Merc 225 EFI OT651558, but I do not see any wires for a sensor or float switch in bulk tank? BTW, my cap orientation is correct, and just wondering if I am missing something cause I don't have a Smartcraft connected.

[Savage]

Hey Don,
I looked at this here picture for several minutes, and went to look at bulk tank in my 2002 Cobra 201 DC with 2003 Merc 225 EFI OT651558, but I do not see any wires for a sensor or float switch in bulk tank? BTW, my cap orientation is correct, and just wondering if I am missing something cause I don't have a Smartcraft connected.

If you don't have wires at the REMOTE OIL TANK, then you don't have a level sensor for the REMOTE TANK...….. So What is your question???

[digthemup]

If you don't have wires at the REMOTE OIL TANK, then you don't have a level sensor for the REMOTE TANK...….. So What is your question???

Hey Savage,
Thought maybe that I missed something when Don helped me solve my engine oil reservoir problem, but I reckon I did not miss anything, so that only pertains if you have your Smartcraft diagnostics connected up.

[parttimefishing]

Daniel- you still need to provide your Engine's Serial Number (please add it to the FIRST post in this thread). Thanks!

Before you decide the float switch is bad, make sure it is properly ORIENTED. The float MUST point LENGTHWISE in the tank.

The below picture denotes how it should be oriented:

Don, i added my SN to the post and my sig. Should the tank be facing bow forward at the pick up or stern? my pick up is oriented the right way.

[Savage]

I doesn't matter how the tank is oriented in the boat.

[EuropeanAM]

+1... you can rotate the tank to any orientation that suits your space/area (as long as the caps face UP, of course).