Livescope killing battery

[hays47]

Best thing to do to find about power requirements. Get a multimeter cheaper ones will do just fine. Study the instructions to use as an ammeter. You can wire it in on the positive side or negative. For units running any kind of Panoptix. Wire the multimeter in the units circuit write down the amount of amps it draws. Next wire in the Panopix transducer power cord with the mutimeter obtain reading. Add the two readings together for total amp draw.

Example unit draws 1.25 amps panoptix ducer draws 1.75. Total amp draw is 3 amps. Say your battery is rated for 18 AH. Divide the 18 by the 3 for a total run time of 6 hrs. These figures are not for any setup just to show how to plan for power needed. This would be similar to an ice fishing setup.

For boat use the batteries are of much larger capacity. But there are more things hooked up to it. On the boat I never hook up my electronics to my cranking battery. I use a dedicated battery for my night fishing lights and my electronics. Everything that is hooked up to battery must be individually amp measured than all readings totaled. Guys are usually surprised at how much current they are actually drawing.

[Gamblinman]

That 24 is never going to cut it with LiveScope. Get a 31.

[capt odie]

I have a live scope.
Check wire size from power supply, run larger wire if needed.
live scope draws 4.5 amps

[MDBASSNPRO]

Are you sure about that 4.5 amps? Peak, continuous, ?

[LWINCHESTER2]

Using formula amps = watts / volts, at 12 volts it looks like the range is 1.75 - 4.8 amps. Don't really get why such a range unless it changes the power based on the depth or range settings.

[DR. DROP]

I would think the amps varies with your gain setting.
4.8 a is a pretty good draw. Wow

[BigBry]

I added up my electronics draw and I’m at 7.5 +- amps (figuring 3amps for LS). It’s a wonder my grp 31 can’t keep up on those long days. It seems to me that battery management is key. Everyone has their own set of circumstances. For me it includes the following. Making room for another battery is going to be a monumental project if it can be done at all. My 60hp 4stroke does not play well with agm or lithium. My older MK330D charger is only good for wet cell. Each one of those are a major expense and/or major time consuming project. It will be interesting to follow this dilemma so many have and see how people work around them. I’ve gotten religious about shutting off stuff when I’m not actively using it instead of letting it run in the background. That got me another hour or two. I’ve started making my longer short moves with my main engine instead of hitting Mr Rabbit on the Terrova Remote. That bumps my battery up a few fractions of a volt too. I’ll take a full throttle mid day doldrums reconnaissance cruise around the lake and that’s a pretty good bump for the battery. Still not enough to add that 12 on the bow though.

[Sbassin22]

I had battery issues with the everstart 24 after 1 year as well. Partially due to my electronics, but I also had two bad rectifiers which I think could have shortened the life as well. I changed the rectifiers and went to a 29 series everstart because my motor doesn't require a ton of cranking amps. Been going strong for 6 months now. Hold right above 12 all day with livewells and big graphs running 8+ hours straight. The true test will come next year and later but happy so far. Several people confirmed using the same battery when I was doing my research. Good luck.

[Rollo331]

did you run dedicated #10 wire for the livescope

[thomasfouraker]

My livescope module does not have a dedicated run to it. Have a fuse panel being fed by 10 gauge wire then I have the modules factory wiring tied into it.

I do have an Ammeter and am familiar with it so it would be interesting to see exactly what the livescope pulls.

[Texas TR21]

Hey Dave,
I am in the same boat. I can't run an AGM, so I am going with a SLI27MA and the Deka rep told me that it is the same as theirs. The Deka has 182 RC and he assures me that the SLI27 has the same, but Batteriesplus doesn't rate the specs on RC. Is it working for you with your setup?
Thanks,
Mike

[creekchub]

I am using a 29 series Walmart battery that is on its fourth season it runs two graphs and all my accessories including live wells and is 3/4 power at the end of the day running live scope. I’m no expert but I suspect you might have a battery problem.

[Taterferg]

Running a lot of electronics, a Group 31 is a good choice. AGM even a better choice!

Second The recommendation

[Cerus]

I am using a 29 series Walmart battery that is on its fourth season it runs two graphs and all my accessories including live wells and is 3/4 power at the end of the day running live scope. I’m no expert but I suspect you might have a battery problem.

Thread is nearly a year old. I imagine the OP fixed their problem by now. :)

[ajw18]

True but still might help someone else.