I am looking forward to hearing what the issue is. Also pay no mind to members like Doctor JJ. There is absolutly no call for his rude comment.
I am looking forward to hearing what the issue is. Also pay no mind to members like Doctor JJ. There is absolutly no call for his rude comment.
Spoke to Mike at Ranger service and he said 24 volts going into the touch pad control box (brain box) could have taken out the box, both console and bow touch pads. He advised me to start by replacing the control (brain) box first. Not pleased getting a boat home and spending $450 the next day to be able to use the boat.
I wasn’t trying to be rude. It seemed like that’s what was implied. I apologize if I didn’t understand.
There have been some shenanigans reported on here when it comes to boat buying and selling. You never know.
Unfortunately I verified that last night with a volt meter at the power connections on the control box. I was hoping there may have been an inline fuse in the line going to the touch pad causing the problem, but according to Ranger service there are none. I am going to study the wiring diagram tonight in hopes I find something else but it isn't look good so far. If I have to replace both touch pads I am into this boat over $1100 the day after purchasing. I will post updates when i get them. Thanks everyone for weighing in.
That is why this board is so great, we help each other.
I would disconnect the starting battery pos/neg for 15 min and see if it "resets" the brainbox.
Don't know if this will help or not but I had the exact same boat once. I had to replace the touchpad at the console twice. Once Ranger paid for it, once I had to pay for it. Turns out it is very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. After the second replacement, I noticed the replacement touchpad looked a little different than the other two. I simply thought the original touchpad was improved with a replacement and I never had any further trouble out of it while I owned that boat. If all your breakers are on, wiring is correct, I would presume you do in fact have a touchpad problem. Just my two cents for what it is worth.
2018 Ranger 520L w/ Merc Pro XS 250 4S
15" Solix console
12" Solix on the bow
Ultrex
Atlas Hydraulic Jackplate
2022 z519 cup 225 merc 4s ser # 3B210484. 2--hds12 live units. 2 poles, atlas plate, ghost, hamby's, active target, merc digital gauges
2002 basscat pantera 3 (dad bought new) sold 8-2-22
2000 stratos 20 ss (bought new) 200 hp Rude ficht great boat/motor sold 11-21
pulled by a 2500HD Denali
proud dad of an ARMY Captain
MAGA
ASE/GM Master tech before tools
hey i was thinking go into the fuse box in one of your compartments and check all the fuses with a fuse tester to see if one is blown.. i think ranger puts a fuse on just about every thing so a power spike wont do these kinds of things. i have a little yellow one you get with a fuse kit and all you have to do is touch the tops of the fuses and little green light comes on. Just a guess befor you have to buy so much. i will pray for you buddy
I'm lost here...why would you change wiring on a boat that tested perfect the week before? Since you did that Im going assume you started with the basics like the main breaker and discharged batteries? One of your trolling batteries is absolutely going to be wired to your perko/jump switch. How would it function as a second battery otherwise? Really hoping you didn't create your own problem.
Assuming your trolling system is 36 volts you should be wired as this schematic indicates.
IMG_1927 by dean c, on Flickr
The only thing that I can figure out is that when I got it home I did not go through the starting sequence correctly (start, 4 digit code, start). Since the touch pad did not come on when I tried to enter the code, I switched the battery selector to battery #2, tried again. Got nothing from touch pad. I then called the previous owner for direction. He said sometimes he had to hit the start button twice at the end of the sequence (start, code, start, start again). I tried with him on the phone, nothing. At this point I started checking connections for power and found the battery wiring problem. So in retrospect, I did not press the start button twice thus not completing process, switched to battery #2 (sending 24 volts to touch pad controller) and that is where I am now. FYI, the previous owner said he has never turned the battery switch to anything but off and on/run positions. I can only assume this is why he never knew the his "mechanic" installed the battery cables incorrectly. I hope I am explaining this so that everyone understands that I do not believe the the seller was trying to screw me, just unfortunate turn of events for me.
I just reread the entire thread and saw in post 10 that the previous owner who I assume is the orginal owner never used BAT 2 or Jump..so this is an unfortunate circumstance for the new owner that either Ranger or a dealer rigged the damn thing completey wrong which doesn't surprise me at all. A very unfortunate coincidence of probably dead battery and then the attempt of a bat 2 start with an incorrectly wired perko.
OP...sincerely sorry for your issue...but if you did indeed send 24 volts up that circuit..I'm betting your brain is fried...touch pads might be as well.
The "touch pad" on my 2013 (2012 hull) is extremely sensitive ..... push too hard and will flicker twice or push too lightly and the button press will not register at all.
As you are entering your code, make sure the "light" next to the start button only flashes once. It is not unusual for me to have to enter the code two or three times before it registers correctly.
This would have been the first thing to troubleshoot ..... not getting the code entered and dismantling your wiring, on a boat that may just have a sensitive keypad was probably not the right move.
Good Luck ..... you are not screwed.
2013 Ranger Z519 / 225 Mercury Pro XS