2012 250 Opti - Need Fuel Rail service - Reputable shops???

[Dixie Chicken]

2011 Optimax Pro XS - In service date Jan/2012
Engine# IB861903
287 hours

First let me say that I'm a big fan of Don and what he does. Not just at his shop, but especially for all of us here on BBC. Even buy all my parts from him and Rhonda.

That said, I have a problem that I need addressed, and waiting 3 months is a hard pill to swallow.

My Opti has decided it needs fuel rail servicing. Wife noticed it was rough starting a couple months ago, but by the time I got the truck/trailer parked and down to the dock it had settled out.

However, it ended up being down on power after a few trips this year so I pulled the plugs and noticed #4 was looking fouled, so I figured it was the coil. *Last year it was #5 and a coil for sure, so figured that was the problem with the dark #4 plug this time out.* NOT so lucky this time. Replaced the plugs, (and coil) then pinned out the old coil and it all seems to be in spec.

Took a trip to the lake to check running condition and it's still sluggish out of the hole, and down on top end RPM. Don't have a dual-liquid gauge here so took it to a local shop to at least check air and fuel pressures.

Air in the fuel, fuel in the air. GREAT... that means tracker valve, and possibly both the air and fuel pressure diaphragm(s). Tracker valve replaced last year, less than 30 hours. Total hours are 287. Checked reeds with a borescope when doing the plugs, they look great. Still down on power though and a rough idle.

With the diagnosis of air/fuel mixing, it's clear that #4 isn't fouling, it's LEAN. Noticeable higher temp on #4 just running on muffs. Running at the lake from this point isn't going to happen! We were supposed to be at The Chick next week for a week. NOT!!!!!

That said, as much as I'd prefer to go to Don to have the service, after speaking with him this week and confirming 75~90 days wait I just don't think we can put this out till middle of January.

(I understand he's had some health issues this year, me too. Getting an emergency MRI Tuesday for L5. Already had 2 surgeries there. Probably end up with rods this time. IF I end up having back surgery #5, then it's a sign from the Good Lord to go ahead and send the rails to Don.)

That said....
I could *REALLY* use some input on other shops that are doing quality work on Opti fuel rails & injectors.
Don't want to step on any toes, but I'm in a tough spot here. Perhaps PM's with recommendations would work?????

Thanks guys!

[JOE54]

sir respectfully if it is indeed a tracker leaking you can very easily replace it

[lpugh]

I think you need to start over and:
Test available coil voltage (kv output) Ohm tests do not allways find a bad coil
Have some test air/fuel pressures and get a printout
Compression test
Reed Inspection
Then make repair decisions based on test results and observations

[DixieChicken]

sir respectfully if it is indeed a tracker leaking you can very easily replace it

Yes sir, that I can. I did the last one. That's the *easy* rail. ��

[DixieChicken]

I think you need to start over and:
Test available coil voltage (kv output) Ohm tests do not allways find a bad coil
Have some test air/fuel pressures and get a printout
Compression test
Reed Inspection
Then make repair decisions based on test results and observations

Forgot to mention, I did a reed inspection prior to taking it to the shop. Pulled the butterfly valve, then ran a color bore scope over all the reeds. Took still photos and several videos so I could review them on the laptop.

The #4 coil is brand new. Replaced it, then pinned out the old one. Figured it never hurts to have an extra laying around.

Local shop said fuel & air pressures are good. Told him to pinch off the air exhaust tube and watch for quick rise to check the compressor. He said it jumped up there. Even blew out the o-ring on his test gauge (plug connection).

I did take him the serial number specific shop manual so he'd have all the proper specs in front of him (I bought the manual from Don Weed).

He was surprised I caught it this early. Not even thrown any ECU codes yet. He said today most of the ones they see already have a hole in the block.

THAT is what I'm trying to avoid.

I just need the fuel rails serviced. #4 looks sooty, like too much air and not enough fuel.

Now that begs the question.....
Does insurance cover a blown powerhead?

Be awfully nice to have a 4 stroke hanging off back there.

[06 SB]

Really easy! Just hook it up and take it to Greenville and drop it off at Don’s!!! He will take care of it.

[EuropeanAM]

"Sooty" is not going to be too much air, not enough fuel. Not sure where that info comes from...

Get your AIR and FUEL pressure readings:

-At idle
-Under Acceleration
-5/10/15 Seconds after engine shutdown.

I'm sorry we can't get your system through faster. One man can only work so many hours for so many days a month... though I am learning to eat and type simultaneously.

[Dixie Chicken]

Thanks Don for chiming in. It's been fairly crazy around here lately as well.

If I can get my hands on the gauges I'll surely be getting the readings myself. Problem is... I don't have the dual gauges. They did tell me air was in the fuel side, fuel in the air side, and #4 was running hot. "Sooty" was the word they used for the plug that I just replaced (with the coil) and ran it once.

Considering the condition my back is in here the last 3 weeks, I can't even get in the boat. Hard enough time just WALKING in the house. Had to cancel a trip to Chickamauga because of it. (And of course this #4 cylinder problem.)

I *DO* appreciate what you do for all of us here, know that for sure.

I'll try and call you next week and see if we can work something out.