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  1. Member
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    #41
    Ok so I guess I'll try to rule out the charger first and go from there. I have a spare regulator if it comes to that.. Thanks

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #42
    Power up your graphs and check the voltage overlays on them you may have the voltage setting out of whack.

  3. Member
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    #43
    Will do

  4. Member
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    #44
    Ok. Got home today and found that the yellow light on the charger for the cranking battery was blinking yellow indicating a bad connection or battery. I jerked the battery out and took it to Batteries Plus where I’d purchased it in March of this year. It tested bad so I got a free replacement. It’s installed and charging now. Hopefully this is the end of this topic and I can move on to the next issue I’m sure to have. I can’t thank y’all enough for taking the time to help me.

  5. Member
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    #45
    Just wanted to give a quick update on this topic since it had a few of you scratching you heads. Went out for a day of fishing last week after having replaced the cranking battery. Graphs were still shutting down. I tried wiring them to one of the TM batteries. Couldn't make that work. So, I put everything back as it was and cranked everything down tight. Graphs worked fine the rest of the day. Evidently there was a bad connection somewhere. I'm about to do some re-wiring.

  6. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #46

  7. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #47
    Good to hear,,,,,,,,

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  8. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #48
    YAY !!!!

  9. Member
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    #49
    Hey Art or anyone with knowledge on this issue. Quick question. My issue with both of my graphs shutting down has returned. At idle they will stay on. It’s usually happens at some point after I get on plane and they usually won’t reboot until I kill the motor. Sometimes they will stay on between runs which is making it difficult for me to diagnose the problem. I’ve upgraded some wiring in the battery/charger compartment. Now I’m thinking about pulling and re-wiring all of the graph wiring. When I installed the graphs I just tied in to the existing 30+ year old cables. To my question.. Would I be correct in assuming that the wiring to the bow mounted graph is routed through the starboard side channel and ties in to the console graph wiring at some point before going to the battery compartment? 85 Ranger 370V

    Thanks

  10. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #50
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Power up your graphs and check the voltage overlays on them you may have the voltage setting out of whack.

    Sorry to hear your issue has returned. It's purely a guess on my part but as ChampioNman suggested earlier, I also suspect you have a setting inside your graph that needs to be looked at.

    I know on my graphs I can manually go in a select a high voltage or low voltage alarm. Heck I could set mine to alarm and shut off at 12.3 V. This does not mean I have a bad battery or a bad connection it simply means when my unit senses voltage less than what I have selected as an alarm it will shut itself off. I "think" I have my low volt alarm on 11.8 V ??? but I am not really for sure.

    Again purely a guess but I suspect before you worked on the connections you were right on the threshold of where the unit would shut down. Then after working on the connection you may have gain a tiny bit of voltage but now your back down to where you were at before you worked on the connection...I would check my voltage alarm settings in the graph. You should have a high and low threshold.

    In post #45 you said you got it to work and was going to do some re-wiring because of poor connections...did you ever re-wire it?

  11. Member
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    #51
    I upgraded the wiring in the battery compartment. I found a few splices that didn’t look good so I just cleaned them up. I will check the settings in the graphs tomorrow. It would be nice if that’s all it is. Thanks!

  12. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #52
    Quote Originally Posted by Stevebandl View Post
    I’m on the lake now and my graphs are shutting down when the motor is running. They reboot when I shut it down. Both are wired to the cranking battery which was showing fully charged this morning. Got a clue?
    1990 Evinrude 150XP
    Thanks


    ...in your initial post you said "my graphs are shutting down when the motor is running. They reboot when I shut it down". This leads me to believe you are have an overvoltage issue. Based on that statement it does not sound like weak voltage or a poor connection. This is just purely a guess based on your original statement. Your graphs may have a overvoltage protection which will shut them self off for protection. I would want to confirm my voltage output from the motor and find out what the high and low voltage limit is for the particular units that are shutting off. It may be a internal setting you can adjust or it might be a setting that is not adjustable. I have no idea.

    I am pretty sure my Humminbird will shut itself off if it detects an abnormally high or low voltage. I have never had it happen but it seems like I remember reading it in my owners manual. I do know there is an alarm setting that I can adjust that will sound once voltage gets below the point I have it set on.

  13. Member
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    #53
    If it is over voltage, likely a bad regulator?

  14. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #54
    If it shows over voltage check the battery charge while running with meter on the batterys ...should not be over 14.2-14.5.....if it is over then I would suspect the regulator.

  15. Member
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    #55
    I’d wire it direct to the battery and rule out the birds nest you probably have under the dash.

    I had a similar problem once. Turns out the springs in an inline glass fuse holder was weak. Sometimes when I was running the unit would shut off. Messed with a lot of stuff till I found it doing the “wiggle” test.
    1997 Ranger 692VS
    2014 Mercury 175 Pro XS 2B111166

  16. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #56
    Yes the 1st thing you should do is run new wires right from the battery to unit up front and also new wires to the console unit, make sure you have a fuse before the battery in line .Don't tap in to any existing wires .If this does not cure your problem then check your output of voltage when motor is running. Could be rectifier or regulator which ever you have. You said you had a replacement rectifier replace it and see if that helps the situation.
    Last edited by twitch; 12-31-2019 at 07:17 AM.
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  17. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #57
    Hook them direct to the TM to take the outboard's electrical system out of the loop.

  18. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #58
    I thought he already had tried that , or did I miss something
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  19. Member
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    #59
    I’m confused on how you can hook up a 12 volt unit to the 24 volt trolling motor batteries
    1997 Ranger 692VS
    2014 Mercury 175 Pro XS 2B111166

  20. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger Rod View Post
    I’m confused on how you can hook up a 12 volt unit to the 24 volt trolling motor batteries
    When you have a 24V system the batteries are hooked in series to achieve the voltage. When you have a parallel connection all you are getting is 12 V from one battery.

    TM 24 V...hot from TM to battery A hot...negative from TM to battery B negative...jumper wire from battery A negative to hot on battery B...this is a series connection.

    Now if you only use one battery in your system you have a parallel connection. When you isolate your connections for the graph it should be hot from graph to hot on battery A and negative from graph to negative on battery A...Battery B is not in use. Think of it just like you have your onboard charger hooked up. You may have 2 batteries to achieve 24V for the trolling motor (which is a series connection) but your charging device is isolated to each individual battery in a parallel connection.

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