I’m confused and it may have cost me.

[rubberdown]

So I may have screwed up. One of my hubs looked to be low on oil. I went ahead and removed the Allen screw, drained, and refilled with Lucas hub oil all the way to the top. I was proud of myself. Went to go fishing, tire came apart on that wheel which I’m assuming is because it was a 3.75 year old Goodyear marathon. When I took the wheel off, the rear seal on that hub was just puking oil.

Did I cause this by overfilling and using rather heavy oil? I thought I did it right, but what do I know? I have read everything I could find in here before I refulled hub, but it is confusing as to what ufp hub people are talking about when they say oil bath hubs. There’s the kind with the Allen screw, and the kind where you fill via the cap.

Regardlesa, I ordered all the parts from Ranger today to rebuild all 4 wheels. I went ahead and bought the races for all 4 wheels. Do y’all just proactively change these or is that just stupid on my part?

ok thanks y’all!

ryan

[Bob G.]

If you have UFP Gold Series oil bath hubs, they require 50 weight motor oil filled to the top.

What is the brand of your hubs?

[rubberdown]

I’m obviously an idiot my apologies. I do believe they are the ufp gold series. It’s a 2000 ranger trail dual axle.

[Bassmaster2003]

I was always taught to only fill half way or 3/4 of the way to allow for expansion.

[21XDC]

UFP Gold require 100% full. I dont think Ranger used those.... They might now, But back years ago they used the 1/2 full type... Maybe Tie-Down Manufacturing?

[DABS]

The hub should be stamped with the manufacturer stamp. TDE is Tie Down but all UFP hubs were stamped on the back side back then.

[billnorman1]

So I may have screwed up. One of my hubs looked to be low on oil. ...................
ryan

Maybe you had a leak before you started.

[rubberdown]

Ok guys. The follow up. I took everything apart and replaced all of it. What a pain in the rump. One of the bearings from Ranger is undersized and wouldn’t fit. Of course it was the one behind the seal and I didn’t test for. 4 hours for one wheel.

My my official opinion on what happened is that I had a leak before. The thick Lucas hub oil exacerbated the situation. The reason the rear seal blew out was the plastic center cap is supposed to move in and out to expand with the oil heating up. Mine was seized, which I am guessing blew the oil out of the back seal. I took it all apart and cleaned it up... replaced all the races and both bearing a and the seal. New o-ring on the cap, and the cap is moving in and out freely now.

[rubberdown]

Also is if there is no visible damage to the races do I need to replace em?

[cwilt]

Also is if there is no visible damage to the races do I need to replace em?

Should you replace them...yes. Just because there is no visible damage does not mean there is no wear. Which would cause your new "rollers" to not fit right and accelerate wear. They usually come as a "matched set". In a bind it will get you home.

[toofy]

I have a 2017 Ranger Z521 and I don't know what hubs are. Do I have these on my trailer?

[blkfalc4]

I have a 2017 Ranger Z521 and I don't know what hubs are. Do I have these on my trailer?

You have UFP Vault hubs with UFP Hybrid oil in them.

http://www.vmboattrailers.com/images...ult_7-8-09.pdf

[Ron H 520]

Yours should be Cool Hubs, which if like mine on my 01, they are to be filled to the top. I've ran mine with Lucas hub oil with no issues.