Time to redo the old P2. Was thinking about adding some kneee braces to the transom to give some much needed support in the rear of these boats..just wondering if anyone has ever done it??
Time to redo the old P2. Was thinking about adding some kneee braces to the transom to give some much needed support in the rear of these boats..just wondering if anyone has ever done it??
They don’t really need it as only deterioration causes failure. Resealing the bolts and plates are a deterrent.
Problem is it's past the point of trying to fix I believe. And going to improve on how large of a jackplate I can install
We have seen excellent success with SeaCast.
I was going to do that. But doesn’t the transom in a 90 P2 run all the way over too the sides of the boat behind the gas tanks?Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats
It does, so just fill that area. You might have to build an interior wall to hold the material in place till it firms up, and maybe paint (coat) the material on the interior walls to build a cavity for retaining the material.
You have to cut all the old wood out with a chainsaw. I’m not sure how I could get all the way over to cut all the wood out? Do you know anyone on here that has done a seacast transom in a P2 that I could talk too?
You might do a search here on BBC. Like maybe the Bass Boat Restoration section? Or General Bass Boat Topics? You're probably not going to find but 1-2 (if any) of this manufacturer's owners that have done one.
So try to reach out to other owners of all brands for your benefit.
Not on a Bass Cat ourselves though we do know a Hawk customer who did it and others on Bass Boat Central have.
I have done it using Seacast. I would recommend you find another hull. If you want to do it yourself, here are the steps
Remove motor. The rear top cap must be removed. Saw it loose at the battery and fuel tank compartment. Lift the section of the topcap off. Now you can use a chain saw, I recommend an electric one to remove ALL the wood in the transom. Fill with Seacast and put it back together. As I said earlier, I would look for another hull. This is a major project and very time consuming. Good luck.
Rick Collis
903-473-8820
I've done it as well. I did manage to remove all the wood out to the sides of the boat. To do this I cut 2 windows in the inner skin about 16" square so I could get my hands in to pull wood out. I bought several bits and drilled out as much of the wood as I could. I then used the chain saw and cut out all I could get to with it. I bought some chisels and cut the handle off and welded it to a piece of 3/4" round bar and used that to get all the wood off the outer and inner skin. I used those and some other homemade tools to remove the wood on the sides behind the flotation boxes. I almost gave up many times removing the wood in these areas but it can be done. Once you have all the wood out you will have to glass over the ends of the flotation boxes because they are open and the foam is exposed. The foam will not contain the Seacast and it will actually dissolve the foam from what I was told. This is not easy either but it is doable. Once you get that done the actual pouring of the Seacast is simple. I will say this though, if I had it to do again, I would take it and have the rear section of the top cap cut off and replace the transom with wood by a professional shop. It took me 3 months from start to finish to get my boat back on the water and it's just a ton of work. Either way, good luck to you. Also, if you have any questions feel free to pm me.
Well this isn’t very encouraging....might just find another boat..
Reply With Quote