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  1. #1
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    On the road bearing failure

    I have a 2001 single axle Ranger Trail Trailer with cool hubs. I have never had any issues, but have heard all of the horror stories. I do not want to replace the hubs, but I do want to be prepared in case I have a failure on the interstate. I am making a long trip next month and want to get any tools/supplies that I would need to make a repair on the side of the road.

    Can anyone explain the process and advise of the tools and materials (bearing part numbers, seals, etc.) required?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #2
    For me it was 3 wheels and half speed hahahaa. Sorry can't help ya.
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  3. Member
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    #3
    You will need bearings, races, seals, oil or grease. Better would be an extra hub with everything already installed. Tools: hammer, punch, seal tool, jack, lug wrench, maybe other wrenched if you have to remove brakes. If you have never replaced bearings or hubs at home, on the side of the road is not the place to learn. Practice at home so you know what you are in for. The first time is always a little tough but once you’ve done it it gets much easier.
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  4. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #4
    Go with the EXTRA hub COMPLETE !! Quick, easy, swap and go. Then you can take your time when at home to fix the old one !
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    #5
    Service them every year and you wont have a problem unless you run them with a bad seal. The first time you do write down the bearings, races and seal and keep the set in a plastic waterproof bag greased up and ready to go. Bearing buddies will go along way in keeping the inner bearing lubed up if you don't have them already. Prevention is the key here!! If you lose a bearing there is a chance of destroying the axle stub also, so just keep them serviced and be happy. CJ
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  6. Member SoonerFan's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by leonreno View Post
    You will need bearings, races, seals, oil or grease. Better would be an extra hub with everything already installed. Tools: hammer, punch, seal tool, jack, lug wrench, maybe other wrenched if you have to remove brakes. If you have never replaced bearings or hubs at home, on the side of the road is not the place to learn. Practice at home so you know what you are in for. The first time is always a little tough but once you’ve done it it gets much easier.
    For sure. It took me all weekend and several trips to the parts store the first time I replace both side wheel bearings. By the fourth or fifth time, I had that pared down to a couple of hours after work.

    If you have disc brakes, you'll have to get familiar with how to remove and replace the pads and calipers. I've got just one wrench that will fit the caliper slide pins in between the brakes and the spring bracket. Also, if your hubs are like mine, the brake rotor is integrated with the hub....all one piece. I've sometimes thought about carrying a plain (no brake rotor) hub and if really jammed up using it and removing the caliper just for the trip home.

    In other words, it's just a good idea to do a dry run before you even think about doing on the side of the road, in the dark, and mud, and whatever. I've done it numerous times in my garage and I'm still not sure I would do it on the side of the road....."Hello?! AAA?"
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  7. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    #7
    2 bolts and the calipers comes right off. No need to remove pads or pins. Best to have a spare hub ready to install. They are not that pricey and good insurance. For guys with torsion axles the entire arm can be replaced with hub all ready to go. One bolt and the arm comes off. Install new arm and put the wheel on and your down the road.
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  8. Member Islands's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by SoonerFan View Post
    In other words, it's just a good idea to do a dry run before you even think about doing on the side of the road, in the dark, and mud, and whatever. I've done it numerous times in my garage and I'm still not sure I would do it on the side of the road....."Hello?! AAA?"
    This ^ If you have a roadside assist program for your vehicle check to see if the trailer is covered or can be added. You can get coverage through Boat US that covers the tow vehicle and trailer. That said, it is still good to have a completed set of parts with you in case you are stranded in east west bum funk nowhere. And don't go cheap on parts...go with quality stuff!

  9. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #9
    Definitely go with a complete spare hub. Get one with a brake rotor, which you can run on an axle without brakes, if need be. I had my 2001 COOL Hubs leave me on the side of the road twice the summer after I bought a new Ranger R91. You need new bearings and races, seals, new outer cap and spare O-rings that go on the outer edge, spare allen screw. I bought all of this from Ranger back when, but they may no longer carry parts for a rig this old. You will also need a bottle of Valvoline 50 weight Racing oil from Walmart and a tube of red high temp silicone from an auto parts store. You'll need the tools to pry out an old seal and a flat piece of wood to lay across a new seal to be able to apply equal pressure all the way around to seat it evenly. A rubber mallet is also useful, plus a drift of some kind to seat new races in the hub.
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  10. Member cwilt's Avatar
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    #10
    100% get a spare hub. Alot easier than packing bearing with grease and replacing races. If it can be repaired at all. I lost a left hub 30 miles in the middle of nowhere, and was nervous as hell trying to sand/file the gouge on the axle so the new/old bearing race could be replaced. On the side of the road was not fun. Luckily i got it to fit after an hour. When them bearing go...its like a bomb going off inside your hub...metal everywhere with damage to axle.
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    #11
    Keep one of these in your truck. It will be your best friend if you or anybody else has a flat tire or other issue.
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mmiller View Post
    I have a 2001 single axle Ranger Trail Trailer with cool hubs. I have never had any issues, but have heard all of the horror stories. I do not want to replace the hubs, but I do want to be prepared in case I have a failure on the interstate. I am making a long trip next month and want to get any tools/supplies that I would need to make a repair on the side of the road.

    Can anyone explain the process and advise of the tools and materials (bearing part numbers, seals, etc.) required?

    Thanks in advance!
    I use these......

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  13. Member Bill Reynolds's Avatar
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    #13
    I also recommend carrying a breaker bar and 13/16 deep socket (may be 3/4) and a 3 ft section of 1 inch pipe to use as a cheater. Those lug nuts are supposed to be torqued to 100 ft lbs but many times, dealers just run them down with an air impact wrench that could result in over tightening.
    The side of the road is not the place to find out you can’t get enough leverage to loosen the lug nuts.

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  14. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #14
    Most common tool I see people missing when trying to do tire or hub work on the road is a lug wrench. Vehicle wrenches often won’t fit into the recesses around the lug nuts on trailer tires.

    Needle nose pliers for the cotter pin, an adjustable wrench that fits your spindle nut, a torque wrench to put the wheel back on, nitrile gloves and rags to stay clean enough to get back in the truck and to clean the old grease off the spindle, grease, emery cloth/file to clean up the spindle.
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  15. Member
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Most common tool I see people missing when trying to do tire or hub work on the road is a lug wrench. Vehicle wrenches often won’t fit into the recesses around the lug nuts on trailer tires.

    Needle nose pliers for the cotter pin, an adjustable wrench that fits your spindle nut, a torque wrench to put the wheel back on, nitrile gloves and rags to stay clean enough to get back in the truck and to clean the old grease off the spindle, grease, emery cloth/file to clean up the spindle.
    This is some good advice sometimes thin wall sockets are needed I found that out before a road trip.

  16. Member
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    #16
    As menioned a good jack. I carry a jack, impact sockets, and a 1/2" milwaukee impact gun. Whether I'm pulling the boat or the enclosed trailer. Had a flat towing the enclosed trailer on I-95. In 15 mins. it was changed and off the side of the road..

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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Islands View Post
    This ^ If you have a roadside assist program for your vehicle check to see if the trailer is covered or can be added. You can get coverage through Boat US that covers the tow vehicle and trailer. That said, it is still good to have a completed set of parts with you in case you are stranded in east west bum funk nowhere. And don't go cheap on parts...go with quality stuff!
    I looked into this last year. What I found out was that coverage by AAA varies by your local club. Luckily I am covered but you can’t assume that you are.
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  18. Member
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    #18
    its easier for me to just carry a spare axle, jack, two jack stands, and a battery impact.
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  19. Member
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    #19
    i have the cool hubs on my 2000 trailer i change oil every year and check for water and leaks so far no problem,but if i towed a lot i would pull them off and and grease them,i bought the things to do mine,inside grease seal and outside cap from ranger cost around 45.00,if i ever have a leak i will go ahead and switch to the grease,ranger said thats all i needed inner seal and outer cab