Another DFI oil leak - leaking down swivel bracket

[greauxpete]

After running the motor yesterday for about 20 miles, I came home and inspected the leak I fixed at the lower seal housing. I found no more leaks between lower unit and midsection.

However, I found dfi oil leaking down the swivel bracket.
After running on the muffs for about 30 minutes (looking for leaks) I found oil bubbling/leaking between the cylinder block and end cap interface.

Will this require a rebuild?
Can I try to retourque the bolt near the leak to make sure its torqued to spec?

See pics below:

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[Bob G.]

After looking at the second pic, I think you have a bigger problem than re-torqueing it to spec. Hoping someone who knows the answer chimes in.

[Savage]

I suspect that the motor will need to be torn down and the case halves re-sealed, but lets see what Joe and Don have to say.

[greauxpete]

Here is a video:

[greauxpete]

May try to torque the bolts above and below the leak to spec.
Is this a bad idea?

[Savage]

You could try that.

[JOE54]

May try to torque the bolts above and below the leak to spec.
Is this a bad idea?

not a bad idea but I dout it will fix it,mtr need to be torn down cleaned and resealed woulnt really say rebuild unless a lot of hrs on powerhead/ good luck sir

[greauxpete]

This is the first time I have gone this deep in a boat motor. I have a few questions about splitting the crank case and resealing:

1. The FSM calls for sealing the halves with Loctite Master Gasket (92-12564-2). Is this still the preferred sealant. It seems scarce.
2. Concerning preparing the surface after removal.
What is reccomended for cleaning the two surfaces as far as abrasives and solvents?
3. I plan on removing the engine, then removing accessories such as: air handler assembly, lower crank seal housing, flywheel, vst, pulse fuel pump, tps, starter, ecu, relays and wiring. Just enough to access bolts for removal and prepping of surfaces for resealing. I do not plan to remove the compressor, alternator, heads, fuel rails, coils, etc. Am I thinking correctly?
4. The master gasket kit includes a primer?
What is its purpose and are there any concerns spraying this near the crank and bearings. Seems like I should mask the area inside of the flanges. Thoughts?
5. When applying the master gasket sealant, should I smear the sealant on both surfaces, run a bead on one or both surfaces, coat both surfaces using a brush. Any tips here?
6. When the engine block with crank still in the motor is re- assembled, are there any techniques for ensuring the crank and bearings stay lined up while re attaching the halves?
7. Any tips for reattaching the end cap. I was thinking of using 4 long studs in the center for stabbing or is this overkill and should I simply have an assistant hold it in place and bolt it up?

Sorry for the long list, but thanks for your help in the past and going forward.

Steve

[EuropeanAM]

Use ONLY the Master Gasket. Whomever had that engine apart did NOT, and that's almost certainly why you are going to be going back in there.

Follow the Mercury Service Manual EXACTLY. It outlines what you need to do in terms of priming and sealing (if you need a solvent for cleaning, lacquer thinner and/or some carb cleaners, on a LINT-FREE towel, work well).

[greauxpete]

Thanks Don.
Do you think I need to pull the fuel rails and coil plate assembly?
Can the crankcase be re-mounted with the engine in the vertical position?

Don, Will probable take the opportunity to let you swap to TRD carbon fiber reed valves.

Thanks again. Steve

[EuropeanAM]

I would remove both the coil plate AND the ENTIRE fuel system.

Not saying that it "couldn't" be done upright, but I can say without question- I would not attempt it.

The safest orientation is to have the front of the block facing UP, on the bench.

[greauxpete]

That's what I figured.
Will remove fuel system as an assembly.
Remove wiring harness with starter as an assembly.
Can I leave the heads, compressor and, alternator on the motor?

Don, if I send you my reed block assembly, what is your turn around on prepping and installing the TDR reeds.

Thanks again for all your help, steve

[EuropeanAM]

Give me a holler at the office next week to discuss scheduling.

Heads, compressor and alternator could stay (be careful of the compressor head and electrical connectors for the alternator... the compressor head (especially) may be in the way of supporting the block).

[greauxpete]

Don, ok will give you a call next week.
Good catch on the compressor, I'll take a
closer look at how I plan on chocking the engine block on the bench.

[greauxpete]

Ok, I have the engine split apart. Not too bad took me and a buddy about 7 hours. All parts filed in envelopes corresponding to each step.

Questions:

1. Don, I'm about ready to send in my reed block.
I'll call you after new years.

2. I realized the direct injectors have been exposed to air for a several hours now. Is there anything I can do to keep them from swelling (such as insert into 3/8 vinyl hose or freeze prior to reinseting) or will I need new DI orings prior to reinstall?

2. Concerning application of master gasket:
a. How long should primer dry before applying sealant?
b. Should I apply a bead of sealant to both surfaces?
c. Should I smear the bead over the surface with my finger, prior to clamping halves together?

3. Can a manual (shift lever) oil prime sequence be cleared by the dealer with the DDT? The reason I ask is; I would like to thouroughly check for oil leaks in my shop at idle on the muffs, then bring to my dealer to clear (if this is possible) it so it doesnt double oil.

4. What is the best way to remove the upper crank bearing?
Is it pressed in? Do I need to remove the crank to get it out?
I have new seals and orings to install. There was no oil leak at the upper crank bearing before I split the halves, but it seems like I should change the seals and oring while I have it this far apart. Thoughts?

Here are some pics:

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20191230_172639.jpg

Thanks again for all of the help. I doubt I could do it without all of your support.

[Bob G.]

Nice write up. Considering the extensive work you are performing on your motor, I would get the Rinda Diacom software.

[EuropeanAM]

Pete- do you have a Service Manual (Mercury) on hand? It covers each one of these questions in detail, I believe (as well as others that are bound to come up).

1. Ok... we will be in on the 2nd.

2. No harm in putting a hose on them... you will want to replace the O-Ring (we have those individually as needed). Avoid messing with the carbon dams. If needed, we have some sizing caps here (the sizing tool is just about as useful as snow chains on a wheelbarrow).

The Other-2, a: 10 minutes is the traditional wait time.

The Other-2, b: Only to the block surface. MUST be applied in a specific pattern

The Other-2, c: No. Specific pattern and bead thickness shown in the Factory Service Manual

3. One you do a "shift lever jockey break-in reset", it cannot be reversed.

4. Crankshaft must be lifted enough for the bearing to clear it's locating pin.
Does not require complete removal, but you must make certain that ALL bearings are properly indexed on their locating pins (and the crank has dropped fully into the cylinder block).

[greauxpete]

Yes, I have a hard copy of the service manual for my serial number. THANKS for answering each question. Talk to you on the 2nd.

Steve

[greauxpete]

Concerning item 2, what is a carbon dam?

[EuropeanAM]

Concerning item 2, what is a carbon dam?

The white, nylon-based material "ring" that is on the shank of the Direct (Air) Injector.