Need some help from Concrete Guys or builders

[dbuchmann]

Been doing several construction jobs for this couple on the side. They have a arched quansit building that is getting water inside. I figured where the water is coming in and it's between the slab and the concrete they poured to hold the walls in place. Tried some OSI caulking but it didn't stick due to some moisture in the concrete. Anyone know of a good caulking that will stick to wet concrete and expand and contract without separation? Only other option is to get a mason out there and have him repour some areas.

imagejpeg_0_01.jpg

imagejpeg_1.jpg

[bullet20vee]

That looks like it's well above grade. Is that in a low area where the grade around the building is way higher? If you can get it dried out, a polyurethane caulk like an NP1 may do the trick.

[DAC244]

What about using Water Plug hydraulic cement?

[bullet20vee]

What about using Water Plug hydraulic cement?

That's another option I didn't think about.

[dbuchmann]

It is above grade but the building has the arched roof that drains down to that concrete and whoever poured the slab didn't slope it away from the building so it all rubs into it. Now I'm trying to fix it and then frame up the interior of this for the guy to use it as a work shop

[haftafish22]

With that last statement, sounds like you need to use a topping slab of sorts to properly slope slab on grade away from the structure. Use expansion and caulk the top. When complete. In My professional opinion, correct the situations, as any ponding water will eventually find a way in.

[191 champ]

With that last statement, sounds like you need to use a topping slab of sorts to properly slope slab on grade away from the structure. Use expansion and caulk the top. When complete. In My professional opinion, correct the situations, as any ponding water will eventually find a way in.

this is exactly what I was thinking. If the water isn't directed away from the joint between the wall and slab, it'll find a way in. Without seeing it, I'm thinking about something like the cap around a chimney flue.

[dbuchmann]

Yeah I was thinking of repouring to angle the slab away from the building. It seems like I'm always fixing people's mistakes on jobs like this.

[Gamblinman]

I've yet to see anyone successfully stop water from entering a building where the slab was wider than the sides of the building. The building sides have to be outside the slab so the water can drain away, not towards the building. By the way, they are going to lose that bottom edge of the building to corrosion.

You may be able to cut the bottom section off, and tuck a piece behind the remaining wall and bend it so it extends past the slab..in essence, like flashing.

[Erie eye]

Just use mortar, use a brick trowel and cap it off at a 45 degree angle as you would cap off block at the bottom of basement windows. If you want to caulk at the top next to the building after mortar dries.

[Brady bass]

Hydraulic cement is the best bet

[Charles Prestridge]

Is the picture taken from the inside or outside of the building?

Most of the time, those buildings use a U-shaped footer on each side. Water would drain out ends of U-channel. Has the U-channel been filled in with concrete or grout? This may have been done to try to fix leaks? If so, it will be very difficult to seal, and corrosion will be a big issue, like already mentioned.

If picture is from inside building, does outside have a raised lip?

How level is the floor inside building? Has it settled and sloping in?

[DAC244]

Hydraulic cement is the best bet

Yep concrete shrinks and cracks hydraulic cement expands and doesn’t crack.

[dbuchmann]

Picture is from the outside. What I'm guessing they did was bolt the galvanized roof/wall to a 2x8 and bolted that to the slab. Then formed up around the roof/wall and poured the concrete to hold it in place better. The inside of the slab is still pretty solid and level but one low spot that the water seeps to. Like I said this is for a couple I've been doing a lot of side work for but without ripping all the concrete out and starting over not sure the best way.

[haha]

How about a pic from farther away. It might give everyone a better idea of the problem

[dbuchmann]

I'll take some tonight when I run over there to check on some other things.

[dbuchmann]

rps20190923_193130.jpg
rps20190923_193105.jpg
rps20190923_193151.jpg

[Charles Prestridge]

I think the best solution is to see if the concrete on the outside building can be removed down to bottom of metal.

If it was poured on top of original footer, it may break loose.

[haha]

Go to Home Depot and get a tube of Henry Crystal Clear caulking/sealant (it will be in the roofing section of HD). It's about $10 a tube and where the concrete is good seal where the metal meets its.
Give it a try before spending money on multiple tubes. It tacks up pretty quick, dries in 4 hrs and can be put on wet surfaces.
After it dries grab a hose and hit the side of the building where you caulked and see if it leaks. If all is good go buy more to finish the job.
Where the concrete is cracked repair it either with fast set or hydraulic cement. After curing caulk the seam against the metal.

Looking at the building I wouldn't get to crazy with it.

[dbuchmann]

No Home Depot by me so will need to find something comparable at Menards or ordering off Amazon. I was thinking last night about the side that leaks more to take my big grinder with a diamond wheel and grind the slab that sticks out about 3" down to angle it away from the building