2004 Johnson 150 Bombardier J150GLSRM.
I want to bump up my idle about 100 rpm, currently the motor idles about 600 rpm in gear and shakes somewhat. I've noticed if I bump up the idle with the throttle to about 700 rpm it smooths out nicely.
Is adjusting the idle as simple as adding a couple of degrees of timing at the notched timing tab on the top of the motor?
Thank you.
You want to adjust the idle orifice on the carbs. Turning counter clockwise richens the idle, try 1/4 turn on each carb. The idle timing can be adjusted but you don't want too, better to keep it at 6 degrees ATDC, to raise the idle you would reduce the ATDC timing degrees. 800 rpm idle with the boat in the water unrestrained and in forward gear should solve your problem unless you have other issues.
Thanks for the reply Jughead. The boat runs great other than the idle seems low but it will idle like it is all day long, and after a long hard run and a brief fishing spell it starts and idles fine but will die when you try to take off. After a few tries it will take off and run fine. I'm thinking heatsoak so waiting till weather cools off and see if the problem goes away.
Your reply makes me want to ask a other question. I need to go pull the motor cover and take a look before I ask.
Thank you
On the notched timing thing on the top of the motor the "high" tab is set at the middle the "low" tab is set next to the last notch to the + side does this seem ok to you?
Can I rephrase that question? Does this seem to be an odd position for the "low" tab to be set almost all the way to the + side?
Well, it might be off a notch, but you really can't tell it could be spot on. I don't agree on the term "heat soak", the biggest problem is Ethanol fuel. If the VST and the little VST air pump is working it helps also, this is probably overlooked 90% of the time, when a carb rebuild is done. Get that idle RPM up and run non Ethanol fuel if you can, and don't worry about it if it's higher octane. You might be interested in the JohnnyRude Easy Timer, you can see it on E-Bay, 10% discount for BBC members. Send me a IM and I can send you a Pay Pal invoice. I'm not trying to sell you one, I've sold over 600 and I'm getting tired of making them.
Thanks jugheag, I'll back the adjustment screws out a 1/4 turn and leave the timing alone. I've just had this boat over a month the motor doesnt look like it has ever been messed with, (surely it has) I can't find a single screwdriver mark on any of the screws or bolts. The engine and carbs are dry and clean I see no fuel seepage. I replaced the fuel bulb with a new OEM and replaced the check valve at tank and inspected fuel pickup and hoses, all looked good. I'm puzzled on my "heatsoak" issue.
I dont really believe the heat soak thing either. Im not a boat mechanic but I've worked on race cars all my life, I'm a good tuner. If two boat motors are identical and one has heatsoak issues and the other one doesnt, then something can't be identical. I've been reading all over this forum about heatsoak and see where people have spent alot of money with no results and some change 1 part and fixes there issue. I just need to know what my 1 part is lol
Thanks again
You could do a search of my posts, I have explained how I solved your problem many times. These motors are temp sensitive at idle, you might test the head temps, test on the top of each head. There has been 3 thermostat changes since these motors came out, just a change in the spring can make a difference. If your springs have red paint on them or no color they are original or have been changed. Your lucky to have adjustable idle, this was a big problem on the early motors, we had to change the idle orifices on some of them. That little vapor separator pump diaphragm is so important, the fuel vapors must be removed. A real OEM service manual will really help.
I do need a manual. I've got one for a 1995 175 fast strike it came in handy several times with my other boat, it seems like alot of the info pertains to my motor, but it didnt tell me I had adjustable idle.
I'll check your post, thanks
Look in Chapter 2 Fuel system.Originally Posted by Kenfuel
I went fishing last night. It got pretty cool, I had to drag out my sweat pants and hoody. I fished several spots last night, the motor acted the same as it does when its 95 degrees outside. When I got ready to pack it up and go home and started the motor I got a check engine light and horn, it's never done this before. If I read correctly this indicates a fuel restriction, it did not put the motor in limp mode. I was about 5 miles from the dock. I ran the boat around 3000 rpm back to the dock it seemed to be running fine and the light went out with about a mile left to get to the dock. Now I'm breaking nervous, I need to get this fixed. I'm afraid of the motor leaning out and burning a piston. Any advice would be appreciated.
I did not get to set the idle up. I have the safety torx bits but when I put them in the bit holder screw driver it's to fat to get through the access hole in the carbs. I'll have to order a set.
Should I start with the vst?
I'd rebuild it and install a new cover and gasket.
Also a new diaphragm in the VST air pump, get the o ring too.
Thanks guys dont beat me up here, my manual is a seloc for all 92-01 v engines. Is my 2004 the same? I can't seem to find a kit to do this, but I've found the individual parts. Does anyone make a kit?
No kit. Do yourself a favor and get the real OEM manual for your motor. You will be glad you did.
New oem parts on the way. Cover for vap separator, oring for fuel and vacuum nipples, needle and seat, oring vac pump to cover, seal for vap separator to bracket, vap gasket and diaphragm. They were out of stock on the float should I order one elsewhere?
I've seen phenolic floats in car carbs get fuel soaked.
Seloc manual beats a Clymers by a mile, but not quite factory. If you want to cough up $75.00 you can get a factory manual from www.outboardbooks.com or look on Ebay. Don't have an 04 listing in the sticky for manuals online at the top of the page, but much hasn't changed since 98 except for the motor covers. So a 98 or 99 manual will work just fine. Don't know who you ordered your parts from but there are plenty of online parts houses out there. I'd order one and the needle and seat also.
Thanks, new float on the way, got the needle and seat in my first order. Hope you guys have a great day.
Got the vap sep rebuilt and the vap pump. It was very clean inside, didnt appear to have ever been apart. The diaphragm looked stretched compared to the new one. Starts and idles well on the hose. No leaks, pretty simple job. Maybe this will take care of my "so called heatsoak" issue. But my check engine horn and light came back on when I started it.
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