My Livescope Setup

[BoatNoobie]

It's not completely done because the livescope box couldn't reach the GMS-10, so I have it hooked up the bow unit only at the moment.

Also, I haven't installed the transducer on the console yet because I cant seem to run the transducer wire from the bilge. Ugh. I hate to pay a shop to do it but I might. I have the transducer mounted and everything.

I hope the Livescope box holds fine where it is. It is a heavy box but those rod tubes seem pretty stiff and strong.

Gonna test it out tomorrow. I also cheated and used the factory fuse blocks instead of running a dedicated line since I couldn't run the transducer.

[BoatNoobie]

Also, I found this small rubber mat that's about 2"x3". What is it used for?

[LWINCHESTER2]

Don't know about the rubber mat but you have the LVS32 pointed backwards.

[ring fry]

Now rotate your transducer so that the bottom element is parallel to the ground.

SE Kansas grass grower

[barbarian]

rubber mat is go between transducer clamp and tm shaft

[tobyfrommo]

LiveScope Transducer Mount.JPG

[BoatNoobie]

Now rotate your transducer so that the bottom element is parallel to the ground.

SE Kansas grass grower

Yep, realized that when I got home and was reading the manual trying to find where this Rubber mat goes.

[Fishysam]

Yep, realized that when I got home and was reading the manual trying to find where this Rubber mat goes.

dont need the rubber mat on ultrex, just a fortrex with a smaller shaft

[BoatNoobie]

Success. Livescope works great. Once I get the extended cable to network, I'll clean up the rats nest underneath. My switch works great to shut it off. Only thing I found odd was, at one time, the reading displayed on the screen went super bright. Happened near the end of the day. Don't know what that was all about.

I am experience interference on my bow and console unit. Turning off my trolling motor helps but it doesn't eliminate it completely. I tested the console unit with the ferrite ring and without, since it was the easiest one to do. Didnt help at all. I also turned off the GLS-10 box and 1 of the 93+ units to try and isolate the issue. No clue what's causing it.

Also, wtf is up with the shading on the maps? Look at this shit. The shading doesn't follow the contours at all. I originally had them turned off, but even then, with the factory light blue shades, it was all blocking.

[BoatNoobie]

Also the Garmin's mapping is garbage IMO. It's off depth wise. At least 5' around. My Navionics was much better. And this is one of their Ultra maps too. Ugh.

[ring fry]

I'm pretty sure the latest update corrects the shading issue. Get you a Force trolling motor and no more interference.

SE Kansas grass grower

[LWINCHESTER2]

How the shading works and looks depends on the zoom level. Say you set 60-100 to be a certain color and you have both 60 and 100 contour lines. The shading does not do an exact "follow the contour" for the shading. Instead it only selects periodic points along those contours and going from point to point ends up a straight line instead of the contour. When you are zoomed out it looks pretty good, but if you zoom in to the max you can see that the colors follow those points instead of the actual contour. Yes, it could be improved but the software doubling the points selected on the contour or by actually following every point on the contour. I suspect the reason for this is related to the demands placed on the processor. You can easily see that having several contours shaded and requiring that the full contour be followed exactly would be a huge processing load. Now all this is just observation and speculation as to why on my part. At first I didn't like it at all and I use it extensively. I use one color to mark shallow areas I'm not interested in and another to also mark water deeper than 200 ft. Then I set up a 5 ft shading 55-60 and another 120-125 to put boundary markers on my target areas. That way when I come into an area and set down from plane I save some time by setting down exactly where I want to search and pointed in the direction I want to search. As it turns out, my initial annoyance with how the shading works has actually been insignificant and it does what I need it to.

[Super 91]

My shading looks a ton better than that on my home lake. But go to my other "home" lake and there is no shading at all, and the depths are all completely wrong. But yours do look screwy to me. On your interference, might be a power issue, or wire size. We ran heavy gauge wire from my battery to my fuse block under the console, 6 gauge if I remember right. Then ran 10 gauge to the bow from that fuse block. This gives the unit all the clean power it needs. I'm running mine on an Ultrex too and it is clear as a bell, but Jason at Bass Boat Electronics did my install and he knows his stuff, so it works very well.

[jmcelmury]

What version of maps . G2 or G3? I see you're using the older CV52 transducer, so I am curious if you also have older maps. G3 is the first release after integrating their purchase of Navionics, with most lakes now greatly improved. As always some will be better than others.

[BoatNoobie]

What version of maps . G2 or G3? I see you're using the older CV52 transducer, so I am curious if you also have older maps. G3 is the first release after integrating their purchase of Navionics, with most lakes now greatly improved. As always some will be better than others.

They are G2 units, but the bow has G3 chip and console has Ultra.


I'll test out the power theory with the console unit since it's easiest. I can hook up a small SLA battery and see.

[BoatNoobie]

I'm pretty sure the latest update corrects the shading issue. Get you a Force trolling motor and no more interference.

SE Kansas grass grower

Both units are updated with latest software. I don't see how Force motor will help, since I tested it with no power going to the trolling motor by cutting the breaker. Like I said, it help a little, but what you see in the picture is with the motor powered off.

[BoatNoobie]

How the shading works and looks depends on the zoom level. Say you set 60-100 to be a certain color and you have both 60 and 100 contour lines. The shading does not do an exact "follow the contour" for the shading. Instead it only selects periodic points along those contours and going from point to point ends up a straight line instead of the contour. When you are zoomed out it looks pretty good, but if you zoom in to the max you can see that the colors follow those points instead of the actual contour. Yes, it could be improved but the software doubling the points selected on the contour or by actually following every point on the contour. I suspect the reason for this is related to the demands placed on the processor. You can easily see that having several contours shaded and requiring that the full contour be followed exactly would be a huge processing load. Now all this is just observation and speculation as to why on my part. At first I didn't like it at all and I use it extensively. I use one color to mark shallow areas I'm not interested in and another to also mark water deeper than 200 ft. Then I set up a 5 ft shading 55-60 and another 120-125 to put boundary markers on my target areas. That way when I come into an area and set down from plane I save some time by setting down exactly where I want to search and pointed in the direction I want to search. As it turns out, my initial annoyance with how the shading works has actually been insignificant and it does what I need it to.

For me, it makes it every hard to see and follow contours. One of the reason for quality maps is contours IMO. They are just making it much harder than it should be. I mean, look at my imagine. How the hell can somebody say yeah that's good, sign off on it for the customers.

[LWINCHESTER2]

I think you make a good case. Garmin listens. You should make your case here:

http://www8.garmin.com/contactUs/ideas/

[botrdav]

I just viewed a Russell Marine Products video install of the Livescope and he said not to use any wire ties on the wires from the livescope transducer as there are fine elements in the cable that would get crushed. Just friendly advise not trying to critique.

[mwbass]

I just viewed a Russell Marine Products video install of the Livescope and he said not to use any wire ties on the wires from the livescope transducer as there are fine elements in the cable that would get crushed. Just friendly advise not trying to critique.

Would you be able to provide a link to the video. There was a Ferrite that was attached to the traducer and made a couple crimps in the cable,