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  1. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Bartlett, Illinois
    Posts
    548
    #21
    2019 Ranger Z 518 L
    200 Merc Pro XS 4 Stroke
    2016 Chaparral 246 SSI
    350 Mercruiser
    On new boat # 10

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    broken arrow, ok
    Posts
    378
    #22
    I used electric tape to hold the sonar cables to trolling shaft.
    More forgiving than wire straps that can cut.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,174
    #23
    Alright a few updates. When the trolling motor is being used, there is definitely interference on the screen. What I'm seeing on the screen when it isn't on, I'm not 100% sure where it's coming from. I think it might just be the gain being too high. I think default is "med auto".

    On my console, I connected it to an independent battery and was still getting interference. When I changed the gain, is when it disappeared. It seems easier to make the interference disappear on the console than bow. The bow I have to use a lower setting if I want it to disappear completely. I just left it at med auto since the little bit of fuzziness doesn't bother me that much.

    Those stating about concerns for me using zipties on the Livescope cable. If you look closely, I'm using the CV52 transducer cable as a buffer against the Livescope cable. The Livescope cable lays flat along the cutout of the shaft. The CV52 cable lays direction on top. The zipties along the shaft do not make contact with the Livescope cables.
    I also ran all my network cables and such today. Everything is connected. I haven't tested it out yet but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Hopefully a few more dry days next week to put it to the test. I mounted the network box with Velcro in my locker. It's tucked away and relatively clean and hidden. The switch for my Livescope at the bow works great. Having it at the console would be more convenient but I didn't want to run the extend the power wires to the console. And I already drilled the hole for it at the bow.
    Since my Livescope looks fine to me and running an independent battery didn't fix my interference, I just used the boat's bus bars to power the units and Livescope.








    It seems Garmin doesn't state how low or high their transducers need to be along the bottom of the hull. I actually raised it a bit more than shown in photo. I moved the screws to the top slot and slid it up a little more. In the spot in the pic, I get bottom at WOT. I want to keep raising it, so it's as high as possible with contact with bottom at full speed.



    Last edited by BoatNoobie; 09-21-2019 at 01:12 AM.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Lanier, GA
    Posts
    746
    #24
    Can you clarify your references to your switch at the bow? I have a pole mounted LiveScope and I plan to sometimes use the graph at the bow without deploying the LiveScope. So I’m looking for a way to put the LiveScope on switched power (I don’t want it running for extended periods of time while it’s out of the water).
    2020 Triton 216 Fishunter
    Mercury V8 300 Verado (2B646603)

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Lanier, GA
    Posts
    746
    #25
    I was thinking of an in line switch at the bow. Can you provide a link and/or pics of the switch you used?
    2020 Triton 216 Fishunter
    Mercury V8 300 Verado (2B646603)

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,174
    #26
    This is what I used.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



    You can kind of see it here. The plastic cover doesn't sit flush though so that's annoying.


  7. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Lanier, GA
    Posts
    746
    #27
    Thanks, looks good.
    2020 Triton 216 Fishunter
    Mercury V8 300 Verado (2B646603)

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