I have a 1994 Stratos 290 FS....love this boat but the spring loaded bow stop (that can move up and down) requires that I used the big motor to push the boat up on the trailer while someone cranks the winch so it does not slip back down. I really want to do some fishing by myself but trying to trailer it alone is not really doable. Any thoughts?
Use the big motor to push up on the trailer, when it’s still in gear, get up and hook up the winch strap then go and shut the motor down and you’re good to go.
1995 Ranger 481v
1995 Johnson Fast Strike 175hp
^ THis. I have seen a lot of guys do it...Originally Posted by ECobb91
That how my son did it with his old javelin ---i wasnt crazy about that spring loaded concept.
1988 Ranger 364V
150HP Merc Black Max
Don’t put the trailer in as deep as you are .. you should be able to get it to drive on and stay .. had that set up for around 10 years before I changed the post out to a standard bow roller as I didn’t like how much the spring system twisted going down the road
95% of the time when people are having issues with the spring loaded bow stops they have the trailer too deep when loading the boat.
This.
I just shake my head at guys who have their motor in gear washing out the ramp, ramming their boat up the trailer when loading, most of our ramps are no power loading. Learn how deep to properly set the trailer, idle up to the trailer, cut power and coast on, walk up and winch it the last 2-3”. Piece of cake.
96 Viper Coral202 225 Opti serial#1B011431
On a perfectly sloped ramp in a perfect world that works. No way half the ramps we use you could ever do that. To get the trailer deep enough to get the boat to float almost to the roller you put the trailer at such an angle your bow comes in below the roller. Some are so flat you can barely get on and off as is.
06 Skeeter 20i Yamaha 250 HPDI
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100% AGREE. Don't put it so far in the water. I have had mine welded in place though love it even more.
1996 Stratos 201 pro xl
1996 Johnson Faststrike J150GLEDB
Lol. Very few of our ramps are “perfect”, most are quite the opposite. I travel a bunch as well and have yet to need to ram the boat on the trailer. I just take a couple extra seconds to get the trailer where it needs to be.
96 Viper Coral202 225 Opti serial#1B011431
Sounds like u have the trailer backed in to deep as said above. Do not have spring loaded bow deal. But fish by myself all the time no trouble loading
Never said anything about ramming a boat on, but we do power load at most every ramp. Scooting up that last 6" is almost always necessary due to ramp and trailer angle vs bow angle. Each and every boat and trailer setup is different too.
06 Skeeter 20i Yamaha 250 HPDI
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Build the ramps correctly and you don’t have any trouble. Our lake is 40 years old and everyone power loads. No problem what so ever. It’s not easy for a while lot of people to climb out of the boat and stand on the tongue to winch it up the last 2 feet. I’m power loading it every time.
If the State doesn’t like it, then build the damn ramps correctly the first time.
i didn’t and don’t build ramps, lmao! 40 yo lake, pfft. Our lakes are hundreds of years old, natural lakes. I just hop out, winch 1-2”, clip the safety chain and gone while guys are still power loading trying to ram their boat on a trailer, lol! Don’t need to power load even at fancy man made lakes with fancy full concrete ramps.
96 Viper Coral202 225 Opti serial#1B011431
Trailer to deep, shallow up the trailer, use the motor to force the boat on the trailer. power load it.
The spring loaded bow stop on older Stratos and Javelin trailers were necessary to prevent damage to the bow as the boat launched. I bought a new Javelin boat with a fixed bow stop. During the first launch, the boat bow hit the bow roller and damaged the rub rail. The dealer replaced the fixed bow stop with a spring loaded stop and I had no problems.
2000 Viper Coral 202
2013 Pro XS 200
I position my trailer so I can glide onto the trailer and stop a foot or two short of the roller, then power it the last little bit. There is enough friction that my boat will not slide back when I get out to clip on the hook.
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Neil Eckberg- Cary, NC - 2008 Skeeter ZX250- 250 Yamaha SHO
Kerr Lake Ba$$hole
Cool. I’ll just tell my 70 year old dad to just hop out and stand on leg of the trailer while he tries to balance himself and winch the trailer up. Shouldn’t be that big that big of deal when he falls and breaks a leg. I mean hell he’s got another one.
Boat ramps have several different slopes and angles so there is no one particular trailer depth that is perfect for all situations. However it is very easy to find the correct depth, especially if you have two people...when the boat trailer is barley in the water stop and unhook the bow strap. The driver of the tow vehicle needs to pay very close attention as they back the boat into the water. He needs to go very slow and notice when the boat starts to slide back and make a mental note of how deep the trailer is. Then when it comes time to load the boat put the trailer at the same depth or slightly more shallow. When I am with another person and I am the one unloading them this is the method I use and it works every time.
The OP said he was having issues with the spring loaded bow stand on his trailer. I have the exact same set-up and the very few times I have had an issue I was always too deep on a very steep ramp. It was my fault for getting the trailer too deep because I know on very steep ramp not to back in as far. Another thing the OP needs to check is his spring tension. When the boat is not on the trailer the part of the winch stand that pivots down should barely move. If it's dropping down more than just a couple inches then it going too low and this will cause problems. Tight spring tension is a must as well as not getting too deep. I suspect one or both of those things are causing his problem.
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