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  1. #1
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    Trailering (by myself) my 1994 Stratos 290 F/S - spring loaded bow stop?

    I have a 1994 Stratos 290 FS....love this boat but the spring loaded bow stop (that can move up and down) requires that I used the big motor to push the boat up on the trailer while someone cranks the winch so it does not slip back down. I really want to do some fishing by myself but trying to trailer it alone is not really doable. Any thoughts?

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    #2
    Use the big motor to push up on the trailer, when it’s still in gear, get up and hook up the winch strap then go and shut the motor down and you’re good to go.
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  4. Member Bub's Avatar
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ECobb91 View Post
    Use the big motor to push up on the trailer, when it’s still in gear, get up and hook up the winch strap then go and shut the motor down and you’re good to go.
    ^ THis. I have seen a lot of guys do it...

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    #4
    That how my son did it with his old javelin ---i wasnt crazy about that spring loaded concept.
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  6. Moderator JerryT's Avatar
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    #5
    Donít put the trailer in as deep as you are .. you should be able to get it to drive on and stay .. had that set up for around 10 years before I changed the post out to a standard bow roller as I didnít like how much the spring system twisted going down the road

  7. Thrift=beast among wolves JR19's Avatar
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    #6
    95% of the time when people are having issues with the spring loaded bow stops they have the trailer too deep when loading the boat.

  8. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by JerryT View Post
    Don’t put the trailer in as deep as you are .. you should be able to get it to drive on and stay .. had that set up for around 10 years before I changed the post out to a standard bow roller as I didn’t like how much the spring system twisted going down the road
    This.
    I just shake my head at guys who have their motor in gear washing out the ramp, ramming their boat up the trailer when loading, most of our ramps are no power loading. Learn how deep to properly set the trailer, idle up to the trailer, cut power and coast on, walk up and winch it the last 2-3”. Piece of cake.
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  9. Dink Flipper alpine4x4's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Idaho Sandman View Post
    This.
    I just shake my head at guys who have their motor in gear washing out the ramp, ramming their boat up the trailer when loading, most of our ramps are no power loading. Learn how deep to properly set the trailer, idle up to the trailer, cut power and coast on, walk up and winch it the last 2-3”. Piece of cake.
    On a perfectly sloped ramp in a perfect world that works. No way half the ramps we use you could ever do that. To get the trailer deep enough to get the boat to float almost to the roller you put the trailer at such an angle your bow comes in below the roller. Some are so flat you can barely get on and off as is.
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by JerryT View Post
    Don’t put the trailer in as deep as you are .. you should be able to get it to drive on and stay .. had that set up for around 10 years before I changed the post out to a standard bow roller as I didn’t like how much the spring system twisted going down the road
    100% AGREE. Don't put it so far in the water. I have had mine welded in place though love it even more.
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  11. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by alpine4x4 View Post
    On a perfectly sloped ramp in a perfect world that works. No way half the ramps we use you could ever do that. To get the trailer deep enough to get the boat to float almost to the roller you put the trailer at such an angle your bow comes in below the roller. Some are so flat you can barely get on and off as is.
    Lol. Very few of our ramps are “perfect”, most are quite the opposite. I travel a bunch as well and have yet to need to ram the boat on the trailer. I just take a couple extra seconds to get the trailer where it needs to be.
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    #11
    Sounds like u have the trailer backed in to deep as said above. Do not have spring loaded bow deal. But fish by myself all the time no trouble loading

  13. Dink Flipper alpine4x4's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Idaho Sandman View Post
    Lol. Very few of our ramps are “perfect”, most are quite the opposite. I travel a bunch as well and have yet to need to ram the boat on the trailer. I just take a couple extra seconds to get the trailer where it needs to be.
    Never said anything about ramming a boat on, but we do power load at most every ramp. Scooting up that last 6" is almost always necessary due to ramp and trailer angle vs bow angle. Each and every boat and trailer setup is different too.
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Idaho Sandman View Post
    This.
    I just shake my head at guys who have their motor in gear washing out the ramp, ramming their boat up the trailer when loading, most of our ramps are no power loading. Learn how deep to properly set the trailer, idle up to the trailer, cut power and coast on, walk up and winch it the last 2-3”. Piece of cake.
    Build the ramps correctly and you donít have any trouble. Our lake is 40 years old and everyone power loads. No problem what so ever. Itís not easy for a while lot of people to climb out of the boat and stand on the tongue to winch it up the last 2 feet. Iím power loading it every time.

    If the State doesnít like it, then build the damn ramps correctly the first time.

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by catch5 View Post
    Build the ramps correctly and you don’t have any trouble. Our lake is 40 years old and everyone power loads. No problem what so ever. It’s not easy for a while lot of people to climb out of the boat and stand on the tongue to winch it up the last 2 feet. I’m power loading it every time.

    If the State doesn’t like it, then build the damn ramps correctly the first time.
    i didn’t and don’t build ramps, lmao! 40 yo lake, pfft. Our lakes are hundreds of years old, natural lakes. I just hop out, winch 1-2”, clip the safety chain and gone while guys are still power loading trying to ram their boat on a trailer, lol! Don’t need to power load even at fancy man made lakes with fancy full concrete ramps.
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    #15
    Trailer to deep, shallow up the trailer, use the motor to force the boat on the trailer. power load it.

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    #16
    The spring loaded bow stop on older Stratos and Javelin trailers were necessary to prevent damage to the bow as the boat launched. I bought a new Javelin boat with a fixed bow stop. During the first launch, the boat bow hit the bow roller and damaged the rub rail. The dealer replaced the fixed bow stop with a spring loaded stop and I had no problems.
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  18. Member Neilslure's Avatar
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    #17
    I position my trailer so I can glide onto the trailer and stop a foot or two short of the roller, then power it the last little bit. There is enough friction that my boat will not slide back when I get out to clip on the hook.
    .
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  19. Member
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Idaho Sandman View Post
    i didnít and donít build ramps, lmao! 40 yo lake, pfft. Our lakes are hundreds of years old, natural lakes. I just hop out, winch 1-2Ē, clip the safety chain and gone while guys are still power loading trying to ram their boat on a trailer, lol! Donít need to power load even at fancy man made lakes with fancy full concrete ramps.
    Cool. Iíll just tell my 70 year old dad to just hop out and stand on leg of the trailer while he tries to balance himself and winch the trailer up. Shouldnít be that big that big of deal when he falls and breaks a leg. I mean hell heís got another one.

  20. Thrift=beast among wolves JR19's Avatar
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    #19
    Boat ramps have several different slopes and angles so there is no one particular trailer depth that is perfect for all situations. However it is very easy to find the correct depth, especially if you have two people...when the boat trailer is barley in the water stop and unhook the bow strap. The driver of the tow vehicle needs to pay very close attention as they back the boat into the water. He needs to go very slow and notice when the boat starts to slide back and make a mental note of how deep the trailer is. Then when it comes time to load the boat put the trailer at the same depth or slightly more shallow. When I am with another person and I am the one unloading them this is the method I use and it works every time.

    The OP said he was having issues with the spring loaded bow stand on his trailer. I have the exact same set-up and the very few times I have had an issue I was always too deep on a very steep ramp. It was my fault for getting the trailer too deep because I know on very steep ramp not to back in as far. Another thing the OP needs to check is his spring tension. When the boat is not on the trailer the part of the winch stand that pivots down should barely move. If it's dropping down more than just a couple inches then it going too low and this will cause problems. Tight spring tension is a must as well as not getting too deep. I suspect one or both of those things are causing his problem.