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  1. #1
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    2014 Pro XS 200 oil pump replacement

    I am going to have to replace the leaking oil pump and want to make sure I have the most up to date part number from Mercury .
    Outboard SN is 2BO20376 and from what I have been able to find it looks like the latest pump is "8M0128080" .

  2. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #2
    I cannot help you with the part number but do you know that you have to have an oil prime sequence performed after installation?

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  3. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #3
    Also, do you have either Gold or Platinum coverage???

    USN Retired
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    2020 Mercury 225 ProXS 4s



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    #4
    I have the "unobtainium" package (out of warranty) and I am aware of the prime sequence requirement .

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    #5
    yes sir that's newest p/n
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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    #6
    Did you crimp the hex bolts one last time to be sure you cant squeeze another year or two out of it?

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    #7
    I've got the bolts as tight as I dare to no avail and thanks for confirming the Part # Joe .

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    #8
    I've got couple of Mercury outboard dealers 30 - 45 minutes from my house one of which I have used for years on my previous EFI engine . My plan was to install the new pump I purchased myself then take the boat to one of these two dealers for the pump/oil system priming and get an engine hours printout while there . Neither of these shops seemed to have any interest in doing the job so I decided to just prime the system myself . Disclaimer : My engine is outside of warranty period so anything I do wrong is on me and I'm OK with that .
    Removed starboard side lower cowling to expose pump . Unplugged pump electrical connector and 3 bolts holding pump . Marked each of the oil lines with numbered wire markers for reassembly . Put a little plastic plug into each hose as I removed them to minimize air getting introduced . (plastic plugs for yard drip irrigation system fit perfect and the bigger end of same plug was a fit for the tygon supply hose from the engine oil tank ) Removed the original pump and put with new pump loosely in place . Now using the old pump as a guinea pig I started pulsing the coil using a small PWM supply I have on hand to see what voltage input it took to operate the pump using 1 second pulses . As a precaution I used a test lead with a 3 amp fuse . I started low 10% duty cycle = 1.2 volts pump plunger was moving but with no authority . Gradually increased duty cycle up tp 40% (5 vdc/ 1 HZ freq) and was pumping oil great. Next I connected tygon oil supply hose to the 1/4" barb fitting on the new pump . Put rag in place to catch oil coming from the all of the oil line barb fittings . Connected PWM supply to new pump pins and using settings determined with old pump pulsed new pump to prime and oil was pulsing out of pump oil line fittings . Installed all oil lines to same locations as original pump and put nylon wire ties on .

    With everything connected I again pulsed pump for good measure to check for leaks and push any air through that could have been introduced . I
    marked oil level in engine mounted oil tank before starting and it had dropped by about 1/8" indicating I was pumping oil .

  9. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #9
    Here is the potential problem you may face doing it this, To much oil in the crankcase, may hydroloc as soon as the throttle is opened. A post was made where this was done to motor, horrible knocking and excessive smoke. I think may have got away it as he has not posted anything about an engine failure. Be very careful and bring the rpm slowly, give a chance to work any excess oil out slowly. In his case he just idled out of the five and put it on pad, that is when it suddenly ingested all the excess oil
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #10
    So if there is accumulated oil sitting in the crankcase it's going to take the increased air flow thru the engine to move it into the cylinders .
    Wonder if it would be worth it to pull the spark plugs , activate the kill switch , and crank the engine over at WOT to try to move any oil thru the engine prior to firing it up ?

    Thanks for the heads up Leon

  11. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #11
    I am not sure you could get enough velocity at cranking RPM, I have not experienced this my self, Again I am not positive but I do believe that instead of rapidly opening the throttle to put it on plane you could very slowly increase rpm and speed as it would purge the oil more slowly avoiding any possibility of hydro lock. As a recall the previous OP had used tool to do prime and it being new to him he accidently ran the sequence 2 or 3 times.
    I found the previous thread on this:
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=916417&highlight=
    Last edited by lpugh; 11-10-2019 at 09:17 PM.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #12
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  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    Here is the potential problem you may face doing it this, To much oil in the crankcase, may hydroloc as soon as the throttle is opened. A post was made where this was done to motor, horrible knocking and excessive smoke. I think may have got away it as he has not posted anything about an engine failure. Be very careful and bring the rpm slowly, give a chance to work any excess oil out slowly. In his case he just idled out of the five and put it on pad, that is when it suddenly ingested all the excess oil
    This was me and I can claim the mistake. It was a frightening thing. You don't want to over prime this motor.

    Get one of these and do the prime once and you are done. Great tool to have as it has many functions.

    https://www.rinda.com/techmatepro/

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    #14
    Thanks for the link Leon went to the thread and read all the posts . tomloans got a couple of questions for you after your ordeal 1) any idea how long the priming sequence normally runs (seconds, minutes?) and 2) Did you make a note of the oil level in the engine mounted tank before beginning the prime sequence ?

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    #15
    OK just did the calculations for the 1/8 " of oil dispensed from the oil tank during my priming process .
    This equates to .571 fluid ounces or 3.424 teaspoons total . Divided by the 7 oil lines coming off the pump comes to approx 1/2 of a teaspoon per oil line . This doesn't seem it would be enough oil to cause a problem but I will be taking things easy and slowly increase RPMs in steps next time out just in case . Thank you both for the critical info .

  16. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by kls2020 View Post
    I am going to have to replace the leaking oil pump and want to make sure I have the most up to date part number from Mercury .
    Outboard SN is 2BO20376 and from what I have been able to find it looks like the latest pump is "8M0128080" .
    Better check your serial number- 2B020376 is actually under a GOLD Product protection Plan (which COVERS the oil pump)...


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  17. Member
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    #17
    Don , I purchased this motor used Sept 17 2018 . The seller had the Mercury "Warranty transfer " form all made out for me along with a bill of sale at the time of sale . I contacted Mercury marine about getting the warranty transferred into my name and was told the original warranty had just expired so the motor was not eligible for an extended warranty with a new owner . The motor is a 2014 but sold new in 2015 .
    It's really interesting that you show it still covered with a Gold warranty package?
    I double checked the SN again for good measure and it's definitely 2B020376

  18. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #18
    The Gold Product Protection Plan had to be transferred into your name within 30 days of purchase. That contract was active, with an end date of: 5/14/2020.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  19. Member
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    #19
    I contacted Mercury Marine within a week of the purchase and explained that I had just purchased a used 200 Promax from the original owner who had provided a completely filled out Warranty Xfer form . I gave them the correct serial # for the motor from that form and was informed the warranty had recently expired and as such no additional warranty or transfer was possible . Motor came new on a 2014 Basscat boat . Basscat boats keeps meticulous records of what they sell and the warranty transfer for the boat was a snap unlike my Mercury Marine experience it now appears .

  20. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #20
    It's likely that you talked with Warranty Registration, not the Product Protection Department.

    Try calling them: 920-929-5054, Choice# 3.

    Keep in mind that your previous call (any call where serial number is provided) would be logged under the engine serial number for reference.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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