[QUOTE=gofastsandman;10500725]The spark was good but not all jumped 7/16. Some only jumped 3/8.
I guess I misread your post #7, that's what happens when you get more mature.
[QUOTE=gofastsandman;10500725]The spark was good but not all jumped 7/16. Some only jumped 3/8.
They don`t tell you this when you are younger. I forgot to push the primer whilst running yesterday...
May put her in the ski lake later today.
My mind has been elsewhere these past few days.
Praying for those folks in the Bahamas.
Maybe you misread your post #7
Let's try something else. What kind of hull you running and where is the cav plate in relationship to the bottom of the hull?
Texted you a pic.
20 ft CC inshore SeaCraft. 1600 lb hull. Lighter than most. A/V plate is 1 1/2 inches up. Any higher and she will blow out too early.
Plate is visible on plane. A friend has my exact set up and sees 45 mph wot. I am at 37
Another friend has the cuddy version of the hull w 2006 150 etec and sees 49 wot light. maybe 200 lbs heavier.
These are variable dead rise hulls with 7 6" beam and about 10% more efficient than heavier deep v hulls.
This is not a heavy pig of a boat. Ken sees 62 light with his worked merc w 238 dynoed at the prop
OK. on your post #7 you stated that all jumped a 7/16 gap with a blue snap. Now on your post #20 you state that not all jumped the 7/16 gap some only jumped 3/8. Which cylinders only jumped the 3/8 gap. It makes a difference when trouble shooting the ignition system what cylinders don't spark or have weak spark. This gives the tech a place to start looking and to use his experience. But if it's been this way since you owned it, it may just be like ChampioNman is thinking boat set up and prop.
I am a much older self taught shade tree mechanic.
I am much better with hulls, props and SeaCrafts. Folks seek me out on CSC for set up advice. I have tried 11? props on my boat with a friend who is a retired performance
engineer from Pratt. We gathered props from many friends for the testing on his cuddy with the 150 etec and my boat.
The hull has foam filled stringers which are solid and dry. I know this because when I bought the boat 11 years ago I started imagineering my dream boat.
I wanted a 40 gal live well under the leaning post with captains chairs on top. The boat had a square in deck live well just forward of the transom.
Square is bad for bait. They swim in the corner and die. There was no way to plumb the well under deck without cutting out the live well.
I can sit in the bilge and see everything. The deck, transom, and stringers are dry. I could go on. New coffin box, bulkheads, fish box cover. All glass/ core work done by me.
The hull is light and solid. All of the elders/ mods on CSC are stumped. We are all friends here in Fl. and have gatherings twice a year.
A 115 on this hull is 36/37 mph. This is why I am here.
The shop who did not gap the plugs said I was down one cylinder and replaced the PP w a CDI unit after I said I only like oem BRP parts.
He said most of my customers want to save money. I said I asked you to call me once you find an issue as I like factory parts. My mistake again I guess.
I keep my gap tester in a zip lock in the port transom box with some my spares and my light tools. It was frozen and crusty.
I had thought that might be the difference in testing. Again, when I think, I may be dangerous.
I texted a pic of my boat to Champion Man. He thought it was nice.
Thanks for reading and your help.
gfs
OK. I'll attack at a different angle. Does this motor have a history of fouling out spark plugs? If so, which cylinders? Also, are you running Champion QL78YC plugs? How do you know the max timing is at 19 degrees BTDC?
Last edited by 316jughead; 09-03-2019 at 08:59 PM.
I had another thought. Look in the lower unit, behind the prop. Is the prop shaft bearing carrier in upside down? The sacrificial anode must be down, if it's up it blocks off the exhaust, causing a loss of power.
Here it is.
IMG_3225.jpg
That's a lot of boat to push for a standard 150.
You have moved approx 320# forward by moving the live well there. Have the same issue with shad they have to have circular wells or they swim to the corner and die.The hull has foam filled stringers which are solid and dry. I know this because when I bought the boat 11 years ago I started imagineering my dream boat.
I wanted a 40 gal live well under the leaning post with captains chairs on top. The boat had a square in deck live well just forward of the transom.
Square is bad for bait. They swim in the corner and die. There was no way to plumb the well under deck without cutting out the live well.
Don't try and compare your 150 with your buddies motor the Etec is a different beast and light years ahead of your carbed 150. There is a difference between your motor and the FastStrike/Intruder line also.
Almost forgot that Pratt had a facility down there. What is CSC?
Testing just me @ 150lbs livewell empty
Todds boas is the exact same set up w OP 150 @ 45 mph
Denny has the cuddy w the 150 etec at 49-50 light
CSC is classicseacraft.com
Will check carrier bearing tonight. Thanks for your guidance and patience.
Any thoughts about responding to my post #28?
Sorry
Always champ 78 YC
No fouling history and I troll a lot
timing set by Denny from Pratt w ignition aanalyzer
Ok sports fans, just back from the ski lake. Wot 4700 trimmed high. Pushed key in and no gain in rpm.
I was thinking about the anode in the carrier bearing and I gotta say this makes no sense to me.
Can someone explain how that is part of exhaust tuning for a two stroke?
Not trying to be a smart ass, it just seems verrrrry strange.
Originally Posted by gofastsandman
Well hell, don't fricking look then. What the hell do I know? I have seen this happen before. I didn't just dream it up. I didn't say it was part of any exhaust tuning. Good luck.
Last edited by 316jughead; 09-04-2019 at 07:31 PM.
I was asking for an explanation.
Why are you so hostile?
Please explain to me how I want my exhaust tuning to change with a withering anode.
Anode is south.
Last edited by gofastsandman; 09-04-2019 at 08:37 PM.
Please read my post #29, or have someone read it to you. I don't know where you came up with this exhaust tuning BS, but it was not on this forum.
what jughead is saying here is if prop shaft housing has ever been removed for seal replace are whatever reason, it may have been reinstalled upside down,which would have the large anode mounted on housing facing up instead of down blocking exhaust flow. we all know what restricting exhaust does to any engine,[ loss of power]. hope this helps.
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