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  1. #1
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    2017 250 SHO - thrust washer

    Can someone point me in the right direction for the correct thrust washer for a 2017 250 SHO? Here is a pic of the washer I currently have. I recently put a Razor 4xl on my boat and its a really tight fit compared to the T1.


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    #2
    nothing huh????

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    #3
    What you mean by tight fit
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by waknbass View Post
    Can someone point me in the right direction for the correct thrust washer for a 2017 250 SHO? Here is a pic of the washer I currently have. I recently put a Razor 4xl on my boat and its a really tight fit compared to the T1.
    There are SHO's and then there are SHO's. Is your model a VF250LA or VF250XA model?

    The thrust washer depends upon the propeller being used. A Yamaha VF250LA SHO Vmax propeller for instance uses a two piece thrust washer. A Yamaha VF250XA uses a Yamaha one piece thrust washer. A Turbo propeller being used on a Yamaha SHO uses a Turbo thrust washer.

    Who ever produces your propeller should be able to specify the particular thrust washer that is to be used when the propeller is mounted to your specific model motor.

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    #5
    I have a VF250LA. I am running a Razor 4XL with the Merc hub kit for the SHO which specifies using the existing thrust washer. Everything fits but I can barely get my cotter pin in.

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by waknbass View Post
    I have a VF250LA. I am running a Razor 4XL with the Merc hub kit for the SHO which specifies using the existing thrust washer. Everything fits but I can barely get my cotter pin in.
    How tight are you tightening
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by waknbass View Post
    I have a VF250LA. I am running a Razor 4XL with the Merc hub kit for the SHO which specifies using the existing thrust washer. Everything fits but I can barely get my cotter pin in.
    I had the same problem when installing a mercury hub on my sho. The installation instructions say the washer that goes between the cotter pin and the prop hub is optional. Once I got rid of the washer the cotter pin goes in fine.

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 1GThompson View Post
    I had the same problem when installing a mercury hub on my sho. The installation instructions say the washer that goes between the cotter pin and the prop hub is optional. Once I got rid of the washer the cotter pin goes in fine.
    This makes sense, without the washer it goes together good.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 1GThompson View Post
    I had the same problem when installing a mercury hub on my sho. The installation instructions say the washer that goes between the cotter pin and the prop hub is optional. Once I got rid of the washer the cotter pin goes in fine.
    Where did you see in the directions that the washer is optional?

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    #10
    Been running mine without the washer for a year now, no problems. Thats the only way the merc prop will fit

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    #11
    I just got a new Razor 4 prop. I used my SHO thrust washer and the merc kit (8M007542) as directions said. The outer flat washer with merc kit is slightly thicker than the original SHO washer. So I used the SHO outer washer and was able to get the cotter pin in. Also, as the instructions say, this merc kit with the extra black "hub bushing" in the sleeve requires you to torque it to 100lbs, not 55.
    Quote Originally Posted by lamoon78 View Post
    How tight are you tightening

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by McQuaig View Post
    Also, as the instructions say, this merc kit with the extra black "hub bushing" in the sleeve requires you to torque it to 100lbs, not 55.
    Exactly - 100 ft-lbs is a lot of torque. Almost impossible unless you are using a breaker bar. If you are taking out the washer to get the cotter pin to fit then more than likely you aren't torquing it enough.

    Also I am fairly certain that Yamaha changed all one piece thrust washers to two piece on the SHO's. They had some issues early with the one piece washers wearing and the prop eating into the LU. This almost happened with mine but I always spin the prop by hand after I load up and noticed the slight rub.
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Meleagris1 View Post
    Exactly - 100 ft-lbs is a lot of torque. Almost impossible unless you are using a breaker bar. If you are taking out the washer to get the cotter pin to fit then more than likely you aren't torquing it enough.

    Also I am fairly certain that Yamaha changed all one piece thrust washers to two piece on the SHO's. They had some issues early with the one piece washers wearing and the prop eating into the LU. This almost happened with mine but I always spin the prop by hand after I load up and noticed the slight rub.
    There are SHO's and there are SHO's. Like there are T1 propellers and there are T1 propellers.

    On the SHO models that end with an LA suffix, the two piece thrust washer is used. On the SHO models that end with an XA suffix, the one piece thrust washer is used. If and when a Yamaha Vmax propeller is used that is. Some non-Yamaha propellers use a one piece thrust washer. A Turbo brand propeller for instance.

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Meleagris1 View Post
    Exactly - 100 ft-lbs is a lot of torque. Almost impossible unless you are using a breaker bar. If you are taking out the washer to get the cotter pin to fit then more than likely you aren't torquing it enough.

    Also I am fairly certain that Yamaha changed all one piece thrust washers to two piece on the SHO's. They had some issues early with the one piece washers wearing and the prop eating into the LU. This almost happened with mine but I always spin the prop by hand after I load up and noticed the slight rub.
    It’s not hard at all to put 100 lb/ft at all if you have to use a breaker bar you have serious strength issues.
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    #15
    Actually, I used a Suzuki Prop for a while on my SHO. It used the one piece beveled washer. When I switched over to Bravo XS I only used the parts that came in the kit & everything ( as far as I know ) fit OK.
    This is the kit I used with the Bravo.Prop thumbnail.jpg
    6D982FC3-5726-4DE4-959C-D0962C15F9BE_1_102_a.jpeg

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    #16
    I use this one with the front bushing.

    Screen Shot 2019-08-29 at 8.10.44 PM.png
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  17. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkBird View Post
    I use this one with the front bushing.

    Screen Shot 2019-08-29 at 8.10.44 PM.png
    All the parts look the same as mine but can't tell about the insert

  18. Member Meleagris1's Avatar
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by lamoon78 View Post
    It’s not hard at all to put 100 lb/ft at all if you have to use a breaker bar you have serious strength issues.
    Let me clarify by saying it is extremely difficult to put 100ft-lbs of torque on the prop nut without a conventional ratchet, and that its much easier and safer (keeping wet hands away from the prop blades) with the breaker bar. Using the plastic wrenches that most carry in their boats you cannot safely put that much torque on the nut - that's really all I was getting at.
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by waknbass View Post
    Where did you see in the directions that the washer is optional?
    It says in the instructions to use the washer as required to align the castle nut and cotter pin. However like McQuaig I used the thinner SHO washer to get the alignment perfect on my tempest plus... I had a bravo 1FS that for some reason I had to ditch the washer completely.

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    #20
    My prop actually is the Bravo 1 FS also. Mark worked it & drilled the 4 extra holes in it. Didn't have any problem with mine but my hub kit is different from the ones mentioned