Ranger 2019 issues with loading RT 188

[pfisher]

Despite all the issues I've had with this boat it fishes really well. When I load it however it always loads with a runner sitting on the port side bunk. If I leave enough of the trailer sticking out of the water for it to seat properly the 115 won't push it completely onto the trailer. I really need to install one of the self locking bow plates because of age and I fish by myself 95% of the time. For it to work the boat has to push into the locking mechanism and then the trailer will be deep enough into the water so the stern won't seat correctly on the bunks.

I'm really confused as to why this is happening.
Any tips or ideas?

Thanks
pfish

[BigJfrank]

Mine has been a turd for loading too. 3 years and still haven’t perfected it. I have just resolved to loading almost on then getting out and hand cranking rest of way.

[Bosh]

Same issue here.
I have it down pretty good on my boat.. Back the trailer in to wet the bunks, Pull it out until the top of the fenders are just out of the water.. Jump in my boat and sit in the middle seat while I put it on the trailer so it loads straight, tilt motor up some and power up the trailer... don't crash into the winch tower. Crank it up the rest of the way.
I followed someones idea on installing plastic rain-gutter down spouts on my bunks which makes it worlds easier to crank the boat up to the winch tower.

[jml]

After a few years of trying, I get close and winch it on. Especially by myself.

[Lowerider58]

Sitting in the center seat while loading really helps when I load.

[delee36]

Mine has been a turd for loading too. 3 years and still haven’t perfected it. I have just resolved to loading almost on then getting out and hand cranking rest of way.

same here with my Polar Kraft.
I have wondered if those nylons "slippery" bunk things would help.

[fishon396]

This Stoltz bow roller is a nice cheap upgrade and easy to install also will help some on the loading. As said above back it and wet the bunks and the top of the trailer fenders at least at my ramp show about inch or two. Leaning toward the center will help also but doing it this way I just get it close and can crank it to the post.

[oldgoat188]

When loading I back my trailer into the water to where the yellow clearance light in front of the fender is barely covered with water. Takes a little bump with throttle and loads perfect every time. Should allow for any wind and use enough power to keep the boat straight. To unload back in till fender top is barely showing. This works for me.

[madmurph]

Fishon396, I can assume that you also have an RT188. If so, this would be the tag from the Stoltz that is required? I need a new bow roller and wasn't sure which model Stoltz to order. My original is already getting worn after just a couple months.

[jason penn]

I've always had trouble loading with both of the trackers I've owned. I think that if it had a couple of more bunks in the center it would help. I have a friend that has a rt198, and his trailer has 4 bunks on the rear half. Seems like I remember a post on here a couple of years ago where someone had done this to pt175 trailer with great results

[fishon396]

I have a RT 178 but I think they have the same winch stand the center roller is 3 inches and the outer rollers give you a bigger target to hit. That roller works fine on my boat.

[TCMT04]

I have a 2015 RT188 and it used to be a pain to load it on the trailer until I figured out the sweet spot. I first get my bunks wet then pull up to where the Amber colored lights on the fenders are even with the water. A BIG help as suggested above is to sit in the center seat and make sure the motor is straight then drive it on the trailer until the last foot or so then crank it the rest of the way. I hope this helps!

[GeauxTide]

Has been a challenge for me, too. A while back, someone installed a couple of small bunks inside of the factory bunks to guide the hull to center. I've found the most consistent method is to have the wheels about an inch out. Can bring the boat up within 6" and hand crank the rest. On ramps that aren't level, I've hooked up the winch, turn the wheel, and applied power toward the high side to settle the strake that's sitting on the runner.

[Skeeterbait]

There are several facts here that effect pretty much all aluminum fishing boats.

They do not center on the trailer well unless the trailer is shallow enough to engage the hull early as the boat enters the trailer.

Carpet contact with aluminum is not a slick sliding match of surfaces an it only gets worse over time as the carpet picks up grim from the water it is dunked in.

Most engine ratings on aluminum boats are not such that you have massive horsepower to weight ratios.

There is a very narrow window of trailer depth that will allow the hull to center and also allow the engine to power load the boat without risking using the inertia of speed which can be dangerous.

What another tells you will work may not for you for a variety of reasons, such as your ramp angle may simply be different than theirs.

In general, I have found that the window of what depth will work well can be broadened by making your boat slide on the bunks easier. It gives your engine a boost in ability to gently and safely slide the boat up the trailer to the bow stop. This in turn allows you to experiment with shallower trailer depth to better enable hull centering on the bunks. This can be done by adding various types of slide surfaces to the bunks, or a quick and effective means without modifying the trailer is to buy a product called Liquid Rollers. The stuff greatly decreases the friction on the bunks. Launch the boat, when you get back, spray the bunk carpet well before loading. The only down side is you have to keep doing it periodically compared to installing a slide surface. You will learn for yourself how often you will have to reapply it. I use a slide product called E-Z Slide Trailer Pads. There are several others. But it is still going to be up to you to experiment and find what works for you. And be sure to always leave your boat hooked to the bow hook till it is in the water. Probably always a good idea but these solutions greatly increase the risk of sliding a boat off the trailer on a ramp if you do not have it hooked to the winch and safety strap.

So the system that works for me is the E-Z Slide Trailer Pads, and reference guides I made out of fiberglass rods attached to the fenders. These are just a reference on final approach to visually know that I am centered. My preferred depth at my usual ramp is the top of the fenders just awash at the water surface. My approach is trim neutral, just fast enough for steering control, till I feel trailer contact, a quick check of my guide reference poles, then apply power about half throttle and slowly slide up the trailer till I gently make bow contact. Sometimes when I shut down I slide back a few inches but winch it back into place. I am considering one of the latching bow catch. I do not remember the last time I had to back off and recenter.

[Sewerdude]

Which E-Z Slide Trailer Pads did you go with for your RT trailer. Some have 3 ,4 or 5 pads per bunk. Thanks

There are several facts here that effect pretty much all aluminum fishing boats.

They do not center on the trailer well unless the trailer is shallow enough to engage the hull early as the boat enters the trailer.

Carpet contact with aluminum is not a slick sliding match of surfaces an it only gets worse over time as the carpet picks up grim from the water it is dunked in.

Most engine ratings on aluminum boats are not such that you have massive horsepower to weight ratios.

There is a very narrow window of trailer depth that will allow the hull to center and also allow the engine to power load the boat without risking using the inertia of speed which can be dangerous.

What another tells you will work may not for you for a variety of reasons, such as your ramp angle may simply be different than theirs.

In general, I have found that the window of what depth will work well can be broadened by making your boat slide on the bunks easier. It gives your engine a boost in ability to gently and safely slide the boat up the trailer to the bow stop. This in turn allows you to experiment with shallower trailer depth to better enable hull centering on the bunks. This can be done by adding various types of slide surfaces to the bunks, or a quick and effective means without modifying the trailer is to buy a product called Liquid Rollers. The stuff greatly decreases the friction on the bunks. Launch the boat, when you get back, spray the bunk carpet well before loading. The only down side is you have to keep doing it periodically compared to installing a slide surface. You will learn for yourself how often you will have to reapply it. I use a slide product called E-Z Slide Trailer Pads. There are several others. But it is still going to be up to you to experiment and find what works for you. And be sure to always leave your boat hooked to the bow hook till it is in the water. Probably always a good idea but these solutions greatly increase the risk of sliding a boat off the trailer on a ramp if you do not have it hooked to the winch and safety strap.

[Skeeterbait]

Which E-Z Slide Trailer Pads did you go with for your RT trailer. Some have 3 ,4 or 5 pads per bunk. Thanks

I edited and added a picture. I used more than called for and used the end pads also. I figured I was going to do this once and the more pads the better the weight distribution.

[fishon396]

Where did you get the end pads my carpet is already worn on the very end.

[Skeeterbait]

Where did you get the end pads my carpet is already worn on the very end.

From the getting place, Amazon.

Seriously, search Amazon for "e-z slide trailer pads".

[Casslaw]

I agree that it’s all about knowing your boat. Mine has a small window where the trailer is in the “right” spot. My fenders have to be about 3” above the surface. The fact that most aluminum boats only have 2 runners is a big issue, but that’s how tins are designed.

I don’t powerload but I end up having to crank about 6-8” when I load up. Any deeper with the trailer and I simply cannot center the boat.

Those pads look like they would help a lot!

[Skeeterbait]

Before people invest in the pads though, I would really recommend they try the Liquid Rollers spray. It really does work and is similar in results to the pads, albeit having to reapply periodically. It will let people see if they like slick bunks. It is something you have to work out your own system. And ALWAYS keep the bow hooked till in the water,