95 150XRi rebuild what needs to be replaced

[Vandee]

0G228318

had #6 cylinder burn up.

I have the motor torn down and am looking at what needs to be replaced vs was can be used again. The cranks looks great no wear on the journals. The bearings on the crank feel smooth and don't make too much noise. Crankshafts seals how do you know if those need to be replaced? Con Rod bearings crank end and piston end can those be saved? all Pistons except #6 look great assuming i can reuse those. Also can i remove the plastic oil pump gear from the crank or does that need to stay in the motor it looks like its starting to fray. I have limited Funds for this project right now so hoping some things can be reused.

If pictures would help I can upload some.

Where is a good place to find the parts and gaskets required for this.

Thanks

[OldTimer57]

Warning! Will Robinson.. (from the old Lost in Space TV series.) For the piston, I would buy the piston + rod assembled. Sleeve can be a challenge to install but doable. But you can NOT stop there. If you don't find out what caused the thing to burn, you will get to do this again. And again. Bad injector can make it run lean, which will burn the top off a piston. A bad wire/connection somewhere can do the same. The list goes on and on. Bottom line is fixing the piston/sleeve problem is just step one. Unlikely the crank or seals (huge piston ring looking things) need anything if the piston is the primary damage (along with sleeve and probably crap in the cylinder head that will need to be examined. It can be something as simple as a water pump issue. Since this is a bottom piston it can also be a lean seize problem since that cylinder will likely run colder than the rest with good water flow. As you can see, lots of possibilities, all need to be carefully examined. And the old "eureka syndrome" can kill you. (where you find a problem, say "eureka! found it" only to discover at the next rebuild that the first problem didn't cause the problem after all.)

[Rip Bass]

I know your funds are limited but there’s no sense in doing it half way. I rebuilt my old XR 6 due to a stuck t-stat and went with new pistons,rings,wrist pin bearings,rod bearings and main bearings. I did re use the connecting rods,mine didn’t seize and the rods were good. I found a complete kit on line for just under $1000 and did the work myself. I don’t remember who made the kit now,that was several years ago. If you have to you can maybe have the cylinder bored( if needed) and go with a new piston,rings,rod and bearings and wrist pin. If that piston seized,I wouldn’t trust the rod. And find out what caused it to fail.

[123trentm]

Pro Marine