Bleeding brakes

[zelmo]

I have the UFP instructions for bleeding the brakes on a trailer with the A-60 actuator, but they require two people.

Is there a trick to make it a one person operation?

[CatFan]

Put a piece of tubing on the bleeder and submerge the end in a jar of brake fluid. Or use a vacuum bleeder.

[MikeF]

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[billnorman1]

Put a piece of tubing on the bleeder and submerge the end in a jar of brake fluid. Or use a vacuum bleeder.

After opening the bleeder work the actuator back and forth. Use clear tubing, when there are no more bubbles, you're done, tighten the bleeder back up.

[zelmo]

The reason I asked the question was this part of the instructions from UFP:

The first person strokes the pushrod slowly while holding safety release bracket up.
The second person opens the bleed screw fitting. He then closes the bleed screw
fitting BEFORE the first person SLOWLY releases the pushrod. Repeat this
procedure until the fluid expelled from the bleeder hose is free of air bubbles.
Remember to always tighten the bleeder screw before releasing pushrod. During
this procedure, the master cylinder reservoir fluid level must be maintained at no
less than 1/2 full.

Are you saying that there is no need to close the bleeder between strokes?

[mikesxpress]

This will allow you to bleed/flush the brakes/lines completely by yourself:
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....ht=Brake+bleed

[danlaboucane]

Are you saying that there is no need to close the bleeder between strokes?


not if its NOT sucking air from the tube on bleeder (tube must be tight on bleeder +other end in container sumerged in brake fuid at all times )
make shure there is enough fluid in the master when bleeding .

[zelmo]

Ok. Thanks for the responses.

Final question. Which is better to use - DOT3 or DOT4? If I don't know what is in the system now is there a problem mixing them?

[krindgen]

DOT 3 is fine. Some will also stress bleeding the master cylinder, first. That means add fluid to the cylinder, remove the first hose behind the solenoid, with short strokes of the actuator squirt fluid out the back. Put the hose back on, then bleed the trailer.

My tandem trailer is a PITA to bleed having all calipers piped in series with one bleeder at the end of the run. I've found my best bleeding has been just with the screwdriver under the actuator. It's also A LOT easier to do with the boat off the trailer.

If you're using a hose on the bleeder, if you start sucking air from around the hose, just put a dab of grease on the bleeder and then put the hose on. This'll seal the connection pretty good.

Lots of good youtube videos on this topic.

[mikesxpress]

3 & 4 is compatible. Both absorb moisture so it's best to flush the system every other year. They make a 5 and 5.1 that doesn't absorb moisture. They are high dollar synthetics but your system has to be cleaned of any other fluids 1st.
For trailer brakes 3 is fine.

[zelmo]

Final question.

I should have known better than to say that.

3 & 4 is compatible. Both absorb moisture so it's best to flush the system every other year. They make a 5 and 5.1 that doesn't absorb moisture. They are high dollar synthetics but your system has to be cleaned of any other fluids 1st.
For trailer brakes 3 is fine.

While I don't know what is in the system now I find it hard to believe it is not 3 or 4. When I went into Advanced Auto DOT4 was on sale so that is what I got, so it sounds like I will be fine.

If I decide to flush everything out how much new fluid will I need?

[billnorman1]

I should have known better than to say that.



While I don't know what is in the system now I find it hard to believe it is not 3 or 4. When I went into Advanced Auto DOT4 was on sale so that is what I got, so it sounds like I will be fine.

If I decide to flush everything out how much new fluid will I need?

Many brake reservoir caps have the desired fluid type embossed on them. Buy enough pint bottles, I'd estimate not more than 3 will be necessary. Keep them sealed until you need them.

[zelmo]

Many brake reservoir caps have the desired fluid type embossed on them.

The desired type is DOT3 or DOT4. I just don't know which was used when the brakes were bled back in February.

[billnorman1]

I'd say DOT 3 would be your best bet unless you race the trailer. You can mix DOT 4 with DOT 3 but should not mix DOT 3 with a DOT 4 system.

DOT3 is the most common type of brake fluid used by daily drivers. You can expect to find that most cars and trucks use this type. Essentially it’s for vehicles that don’t use their braking system aggressively, ie don’t turn the kinetic energy into heat that DOT 3 can’t handle.
DOT4 has a higher boiling point and has found its place in racing vehicles and police cars. DOT4 has also started to gain more popularity because of increased usage of ABS and traction control.
Note: DOT4 is compatible with DOT3 but not the other way around.

[zelmo]

I was able to confirm that DOT4 was used when the brakes were bled in February so that is what I am going to use.