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  1. Member Bassnailer's Avatar
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    Sep 2015
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    Jackson, Missouri
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    459
    #41
    You likely know this already, but make sure and support that hull with some bracing across the top to keep it from distorting while you work on it with the cap off. That Florida sun could really warp an unsupported hull significantly if left unsupported. Even though you are building your own new top cap, you will still want the hull to be straight when you go to put it all back together. Good Luck!
    1994 Stratos 201 Pro XL 2004 Mercury 200 EFI

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Loxahatchee, FL
    Posts
    33
    #42
    It's been awhile. Life got in the way. Laid off, then looking for a new job, had to trade in my car, then I almost got a steal on a 19' boat, but that fell through. Finally back at it. Here is today's progress:

    20200711_2.jpg20200711_3.jpg20200711_1.jpg

    I think I'm going to keep the pods in the back. Dig out the foam and turn them into storage. I'm also going to keep the livewell I think. The center console will only be as wide as the outside of the stringers so there is still room to walk around it. If you look where the hoses are, there is an indent in the stringers. The original gas tank fits in there, but it is a little too narrow. Maybe I can put some fiberglass to narrow the gap so the tank fits tight in there and turn it into a seat as well. Thoughts on sitting on the gas tank? Is something I should definitely not do?

    Anyway, the console would go right in front of it. That might work. Lots of ideas, but first I have to get all the foam and rotten plywood out of it. Happy with the progress today though.

    Do you guys have any ideas on how you would do it? Let me know.
    Last edited by Faust; 07-11-2020 at 03:25 PM.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Loxahatchee, FL
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    33
    #43
    I got the rest of the foam and hoses out, plus I chipped away all of the resin I could that was there. I don't know if I should leave the foam in the pods or not as I am going to put pour foam under the floor once it's down. I could use the extra storage space.

    20200712_1.jpg20200712_2.jpg

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Highland, Illinois
    Posts
    2,738
    #44
    You might want to get of it regardless, the foam in mine was saturated with water. Mine had similar pods, with foam. I'm not putting them back in. Going to utilize the storage space.

  5. Member
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    Aug 2019
    Location
    Loxahatchee, FL
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    33
    #45
    Ok, thanks for the tip. I'll do that next time. I'll get rid of all the remaining foam, including the foam in the front. Heading to US composites this week to pick up the beginning supplies. Which polyester resin should I use? Any tips here would be appreciated as I have zero experience.

    I'm going to drill three holes in the transom to check for wetness. It sounds really good at the bottom, but the top sounds a bit different. I will probably end up redoing it and use Coosa board for the new one and the floor.

    Also, if you're interested, I have a video up of the progress on Saturday. You can check it out here:

    I'll be posting another video soon.

    Thanks for reading!

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    1,165
    #46
    You've Done a lot of good work. Check the build thread in my signature. Might help a little. Boat builder central.com had great supplies for epoxy, fiberglass, etc
    90 Shadow 20' Mod V w/ 200 Merc - Total resto and loving it!
    Here's my build from cap-off to boat in the water.
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=336645

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Highland, Illinois
    Posts
    2,738
    #47
    As for which resin, I would ask US Composites about that, that way you get it from the horses mouth. I bought my stuff from there also, I called and told them what I was doing, I bought what they recommended.
    Look at boatworkstoday on youtube. He's quite informative. I think he also has a video where the various resins are covered.

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Loxahatchee, FL
    Posts
    33
    #48
    @Skunked again: Will do. They are pretty close to where I live, so I will just swing by and talk to them

    @rgsauger: That build was amazing. I couldn't remove the cap on this one and save it, but I wanted a center console anyway. :D

    I am actually going tonight to look at a 1994 Bumble Bee v178fd with a 175 merc on the back. He says a piston is blown. No idea what that would cost to fix, but the floor needs repair too. It's really cheap though, and 3 extra feet of boat is awesome. If I get it, I'll probably swap over to restore that and put this one on hold. I'm in a good place with it and would finish up after the big boat because that's the one I would keep. I would just finish the other one to sell it when I'm done.

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    7,671
    #49
    Get the resin and hardner that is recommended for the composite. Dont swap around for the price. Years ago there was 2 companies that regretted that decision. You also might check on the cost of Penski Board. Comes just like a piece of wood and is super strong, light weight and also holds screws just like wood. You wont pull them out. If you need any switches on the labeled plastic plate, let me know

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Loxahatchee, FL
    Posts
    33
    #50
    Quote Originally Posted by brushsjigs View Post
    Get the resin and hardner that is recommended for the composite. Dont swap around for the price. Years ago there was 2 companies that regretted that decision. You also might check on the cost of Penski Board. Comes just like a piece of wood and is super strong, light weight and also holds screws just like wood. You wont pull them out. If you need any switches on the labeled plastic plate, let me know
    How do I know what the composite is though. I think that's the main question. You can use epoxy on everything, but only polyester on polyester if I understand it correctly.

    Is penski board similat to coosa board?

    What do you mean by switches on the labeled plastic plate? You lost me there.

    Thanks for the tips!!

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Loxahatchee, FL
    Posts
    33
    #51
    I've got another video up. Here's the link:

    The hull is looking pretty clean now. Went last night and picked up the 18' Bumble Bee. It needs to be completely redone including the stringers, so I'm going to start on disassembly this weekend. I'll shoot a video on that and have it up early next week.

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Highland, Illinois
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    #52
    Nice!
    You need to be careful, gonna get me in trouble, and make me get another project boat !! I've already mentioned it to my wife, "your not even done with this one......" she was less than thrilled !!

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Loxahatchee, FL
    Posts
    33
    #53
    lol...I hear you. I have been debating whether to just restore the Bee to a bass boat, but I want that big center console so bad. Hopefully I'll have time to start on it on Saturday. There is a lot to disassemble but I am looking forward to it.

  14. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    7,671
    #54
    Ask US Composits or they might hook you up with one of their sister companies that is closer to you. They will advise of the proper materials and any other questions you might have

  15. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    7,671
    #55
    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    What do you mean by switches on the labeled plastic plate? You lost me there.
    Thanks for the tips!!
    PM me your phone # and Ill text a photo

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