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  1. #1
    Member
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    May 2018
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    Rhode Island
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    27

    Removing lower cowl on 2005 Johnson J90GLSOB, tips? And, trim cylinder leak woes...

    Hi All,


    I need to remove the port side lower cowl/cover on my outboard in order to get at the tilt/trim wire harness so I can remove the tilt/trim assembly without cutting any wires.


    I've never had to remove the lower cowl(s) before...it looks pretty straightforward, but my OEM manual only says "remove lower engine cover screws and port and starboard covers"...


    Can anyone give me a bit more detail/instruction? Any tips, hidden bolts, clips, mounts etc.?


    Really I just need to have access to the t/t wiring harness, don't need to take both sides completely off. I've looked at the exploded diagram on the parts website, but it's not really that helpful. Can't find anything on YouTube either for this particular type/year range,


    Thanks in advance!
    Dave
    Last edited by RI_Bred; 08-13-2019 at 01:36 PM.

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
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    71,246
    #2
    Top cowl has to come off, on the front side, on on the bottom leading edge of the lower cowl, one on the inside the cover where the front latch is same on the back side inside the lower cowl above the rear cowl clamp and then one on the bottom side of the lower cowl. There should be one also on the front side where the cowl begins to curve down towards the lower unit.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    27
    #3
    Thank you sir!

    I'm riding out the season as best as I can with a trim cylinder cap leak that I cannot seem to repair myself. I have replaced the caps and seals with new aftermarket components from Five Star Marine in FL, whose business it is to rebuild these things. They use all of their own aftermarket parts on all of their rebuilds, so I have no idea why I can't get this damned thing to seal up properly.

    The starboard trim cap leaks more quickly, typically after a few actuations. The leak is between the wiper seal and ram, not the outer edge of the caps. The motor does not leak down at all from the up position, and the cylinders do not continue to leak at all after the motor is at rest in the up position, like at the dock. I have not touched the boat in over a week and the motor is tilted at full up position and no sign of leaking fluid at rest.

    I did also replace the original, heavily corroded trim rams with very nice used ones from eBay taken off a freshwater motor. They are in excellent condition and are the same diameter as my old ones.

    I replaced the tilt ram seals at the end of last season with an OEM cap and seal kit. That does not leak at all.

    I've been pulling my hair out over it. The only thing I can think of is that it's the aftermarket caps/seals, but the owner of Five Star tells me that's all they use on their rebuilds, and he sells tons of the seal kits with very few issues at all. He even sent me replacement inner cap seals which I installed, and the leak persists.

    Any thoughts from anyone? I've read 1,000 threads and watched a ton of vids, I'm pretty sure I am not doing anything wrong with the install.

    I guess I'll be sending the t/t unit out to them this Fall.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  4. Member
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    27
    #4
    Circling back here just for edification, I had no trouble splitting the lower cowl and it was not too bad getting the tilt/trim motor wires out. Biggest issue was removing the darned plug connector from the wires. I just could not get the tabs depressed correctly and ended up pulling the spade connectors out of the plug and off of the wire ends. So I will need new spade connectors for the plug, and I am hoping that Five Star Marine where I am sending the unit out for total rebuild can do that for me as part of the service.

    I will update again when the unit is repaired and re-installed, probably not until the spring.

    Thanks,
    Dave