Thread: Seat Post Stuck

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  1. #1
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    Question Seat Post Stuck

    I’ve got a 2006 294 ProXL and the rear seat post will not come out. I recently bought the boat and am going thru it front to back. Are both front and rear posts threaded. And if so, any clues on how to free it up. I’ve gone the WD 40 route and the post will turn with a pipe wrench. Pretty sure it’s threaded as the front is (it’s fine). Clues? Ideas? All help greatly appreciated.

  2. Member
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    #2
    I have found that with your face directly over it and you pull it will fly out!
    Please release me,let me go.

  3. Member
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    #3
    The rear post is threaded in my 08 200XL. I'd assume yours is as well. I'm pretty sure the insert in the front and back on my boat are the same. Good luck!
    2008 Stratos 200XL - 225 Etec HO

  4. Losing fish by the pound. CDN Bass's Avatar
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    #4
    I had a 2004 295 Pro Xl, and it had Swivel-eeze Snap-Lock with the little black tab at the base of the pole. My rear post was stuck as well.

    (2004 to 2006 Stratos 294/295 models were all the same.)

    I clamped the tab, then twisted out the post with a pipe wrench (up and out).

    https://www.amazon.ca/Attwood-Corpor...34654042&psc=1
    Maple syrup... I put that sh*t on everything!
    '09 Stratos 201 XL EVO DC | 250 Pro XS | Razor 4 25P | 6" JP | 10' Talons Gen 2 | 112# Ultrex | Lowrance C12 x 4 | AT | '16 RAM Rebel

  5. Member 76Champ's Avatar
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    #5
    my 2006 294 does not have a snap lock post. It uses a standard threaded post and is same front and back like Duck said. I'd keep spinning and pulling up at same time it should release
    -Justin
    2006 Stratos 294 - 200 Merc Optimax

  6. Losing fish by the pound. CDN Bass's Avatar
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    #6
    :sawzall:

    Seriously, though, the brass pin my be spinning inside the post, or the boss may be spinning inside the seat base.
    Maple syrup... I put that sh*t on everything!
    '09 Stratos 201 XL EVO DC | 250 Pro XS | Razor 4 25P | 6" JP | 10' Talons Gen 2 | 112# Ultrex | Lowrance C12 x 4 | AT | '16 RAM Rebel

  7. Member Nightmare's Avatar
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    #7
    I would substitute the WD40 with Parts Blaster. Use the small tube attachment on spray head and go in from batt comp and spray on open (nut) end of the pedestal base. Don't have to get crazy - just enough to wet it. The stuff will "climb" although gravity is nice if you can make it work for ya. Applying from both directions is optimum, though. Don't count on salvaging the post - a pipe wrench will work but a strap wrench (like a filter tool) will be a lot lighter to work with if it will get a grip. A little shock treatment (downward) with a hammer won't hurt while the PB is soaking. Get a flat bar coaxed in between the bottom of pedestal and base insert and apply pressure while twisting. **Just 'cause it's a threaded base, don't mean the post has a threaded pin....

    Heat is a gold standard for breaking loose metal parts BUT.....this would not be an environment I'd suggest applying the technique in.

    Keep in mind that too much of the wrong effort and you'll have a real short stub to work with. Slow and methodical can be better than quick and forceful. Give the PB time to soak in and repeat in small doses. Spraying a bunch all over doesn't do any good - a little bit in the right places (less mess - more effectiveness).

    Good luck.

  8. Batt Boss Two imthemedic's Avatar
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    #8
    My 04 has swivel ease post. I have seen guys use a floor jack to lift it out.

  9. Member
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    #9
    As mentioned, try and get at the end of the seat post inside the boat compartment. My rear post is inside my livewell. But try and turn the post and feel or have someone look to see if the threaded post is unscrewing or the post is spinning on the pin. Just keep adding some PB Blaster, Kroil, or SeaFoam Deep Creep penetrating oil to the threads.
    2008 Ranger Z520 DC 2016 Suzuki 250SS
    1997 Javelin 400TDC 1997 Johnson 200 Venom

  10. Member
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    #10
    Thanxfir all the suggestions. So far no real progress. There’s no snap and I can’t tell if it’s threaded. I’m going to bore an inspection/lube hole under the deck in the support hardware tube. I might have to replace the whole thing. Fundamentally a bad design where competing metals can rust like this.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Had one I had to pry upward with a crowbar as I spun it with a pipe wrench. Final struggle was just prying it up from side to side, the threads weren't the issue.

    After removal I found there was zero clearance at the pin above the threads. I taped the threads to protect them and worked down the thick part of the stud with sand paper. After it'll slide in and out freely I coated stud and threads with anti seize. Gtg.

    Ps, if I'm not mistaken, the back post is mounted into the top of the livewell (on my '98 389dc anyways). You should be able to reach the bottom as you turn with a pipe wrench to verify the threads aren't seized together. Also my pins are brass, rust may not be the issue.