Clunk in Trailer Brake Actuator on Startup at Stop Signs/Lights

[dean c]

Apparently some clunk is normal...

https://trailmastertrailers.com/wp-c...aintenance.pdf

NOTE: You may notice a slight clunk when accelerating from a dead stop or anytimeafter braking, which is normal due to the nature of surge brakes. Contact yourdealer or UFP if the clunk becomes excessive, or if you have any concernsabout the performance of your brake system.

[2500]

Just did one on a triton, the shock was loose, the mounting bolt had came loose, 1 hour fix. Retapped bolt hole and lock tight

[MichaelJ3]

Just did one on a triton, the shock was loose, the mounting bolt had came loose, 1 hour fix. Retapped bolt hole and lock tight

No mounting bolts on a Ranger, inner member is held in the tongue by the two roller pins, which are retained by the C-Clips.

I know for sure I have a broken top pad...that was the piece I found floating around in there.
I am also concerned that the fluid was a little low and maybe let some air in, so gonna disassemble, replace shock, replace the top pad and wear pads, and bleed...since removing to replace shock requires opening the hydraulics...parts were ordered yesterday...I will document as I go.

Kind of want to do new pads too, but then I need to turn the rotors, which means removing the hubs...and on and on it goes. Hubs aren't due for maintenance for another 2 years, so thinking I will do that then...unless I get the itch and buy a new boat...

[2500]

Y

No mounting bolts on a Ranger, inner member is held in the tongue by the two roller pins, which are retained by the C-Clips.

I know for sure I have a broken top pad...that was the piece I found floating around in there.
I am also concerned that the fluid was a little low and maybe let some air in, so gonna disassemble, replace shock, replace the top pad and wear pads, and bleed...since removing to replace shock requires opening the hydraulics...parts were ordered yesterday...I will document as I go.

Kind of want to do new pads too, but then I need to turn the rotors, which means removing the hubs...and on and on it goes. Hubs aren't due for maintenance for another 2 years, so thinking I will do that then...unless I get the itch and buy a new boat...

UPF60 is on the Ranger. Shock has one end that is connected to the master cylinder. 1 - 3/8 bolt holds it in place in a machined pocket other the main pin with rollers in side and two washers and c clips on outside. Rebuild many . Bleed brakes for several local horse and boat brakes. YouTube UPF 60/70 and it has some insight on insides.

[MichaelJ3]

2500, any idea if this thing came from factory with DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid? My owners manual doesn’t say

[buster502]

might be worth checking it out dot 5
However, DOT 4 offers a higher boiling point. DOT 5.1 is used in high-performance and heavy-duty applications due to its high boiling point. It's compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone, meaning it doesn't absorb water

[2500]

might be worth checking it out dot 5
However, DOT 4 offers a higher boiling point. DOT 5.1 is used in high-performance and heavy-duty applications due to its high boiling point. It's compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone, meaning it doesn't absorb water

Dot 3 for me but I bleed and replace brakes fluid 2 times a year

[MichaelJ3]

Ranger Trail engineer confirmed DOT3, said "Do not use DOT4," although I don't know why. Could be viscosity related, or seal material compatibility? Anyway, goin w/ DOT3, should be on the project here in next couple days.

[MichaelJ3]

Ok, I lied...I failed to take any pictures...

Last night I removed the A60 actuator, replaced the shock, and broken top pad...
Why didn't I take pics? Because my hands were as black as coal by the time I was done...that is a nightmare job...
It should not be that difficult, but the way that actuator is put together, the same pins that hold it in your trailer also hold it together...its a smart and efficient design, but not friendly to reassemble.

It took about 10 min to get the actuator out of the tongue, disconnected from the brake line, and onto the bench.
It took about 10 min to get to the old shock, remove the bolt (which was nicely tight in its spot, BTW, so that was not the source of the clunk).

Then all he!! broke loose...it took about 2.5 hours to get it all back together -- you tube was helpful, and I had pre-watched the videos...

But, there are four rollers, one end of the shock, and one end of the actuator, all of which need to be aligned just right.
Then, you have that wonderful break away cable, which has to be routed just right to clear the front rollers, not interfere with the brake operation, and freely wrap around the bolt at the master cylinder....maybe it was my big hands, but getting all those pieces to align just right was not fun.
Finally figured out it was useful to use the pins to hold things in place while working on it and reinstalling it in the tongue...which then requires you to remove pins again to insert it...

Then, of course, starting the brake line back in the bypass solenoid inside the tongue was another chore.
There was not much slop in that fitting on the end of the hose, and doing that in a 4" wide channel, laying on your back, dodging the brake fluid drips so they don't land in your eye...well lets just say I should have been wearing a helmet...or safety glasses...managed to not get any DOT 3 in the eye, but I do have a knot on the back of my skull from bumping it on the concrete...live and learn...this process was another 35 minutes, especially since you can only turn the nut on the brake line fitting about 1/16 of a revolution before repositioning your wrench (see the dreaded 4" wide tongue channel).

Anyway, I got it all back together, then used about half a can of goop to get my hands 95% clean...I think they won't be back to 100% grime free until Christmas.

Tonight it is bleed the brakes, I didn't have time to do that last night, and my buddy's second set of hands weren't available either.

So, sorry about the pics, but didn't want tongue grime and brake fluid on my $1k iphone....shouldve known better...if you want an idea of the hell...check this video.

[dean c]

Nice job...but your gonna be pissed when your done and that thing still clunks...I just don't think we can get the bleed on it that they can at the factory.

I'm on Ranger trail number 3 and they all have clunked a little at some point.

[krindgen]

Nice job...but your gonna be pissed when your done and that thing still clunks...I just don't think we can get the bleed on it that they can at the factory.

I'm on Ranger trail number 3 and they all have clunked a little at some point.

This was me. After breaking a hose fitting, ordering a new length of hose, cussing like a sailor to get the whole system properly bled to result in the same clunking and brakes applying on half the trailer. All that gear is filthy.

[MichaelJ3]

Hey, question...I read a comment somewhere to "bleed the master cylinder first" before bleeding the brakes.
I was thinking that a good way to do this would be to actuate the reverse bypass function, then pump the master cylinder until bubbles quit coming up in the reservoir so I know it is good and bled, then deactuate the reverse bypass, and proceed with the bleed.

Does a vacuum bleeder on the brake bleeder get MOST of the air out and lines primed...then you kind of finish it all off with some good manual pumps of the actuator?

[buster502]

i do mine with a mighty vac bleeder,one man can do it

[Ranger519VS]

Ok, I lied...I failed to take any pictures...

Last night I removed the A60 actuator, replaced the shock, and broken top pad...
Why didn't I take pics? Because my hands were as black as coal by the time I was done...that is a nightmare job...
It should not be that difficult, but the way that actuator is put together, the same pins that hold it in your trailer also hold it together...its a smart and efficient design, but not friendly to reassemble.

It took about 10 min to get the actuator out of the tongue, disconnected from the brake line, and onto the bench.
It took about 10 min to get to the old shock, remove the bolt (which was nicely tight in its spot, BTW, so that was not the source of the clunk).

Then all he!! broke loose...it took about 2.5 hours to get it all back together -- you tube was helpful, and I had pre-watched the videos...

But, there are four rollers, one end of the shock, and one end of the actuator, all of which need to be aligned just right.
Then, you have that wonderful break away cable, which has to be routed just right to clear the front rollers, not interfere with the brake operation, and freely wrap around the bolt at the master cylinder....maybe it was my big hands, but getting all those pieces to align just right was not fun.
Finally figured out it was useful to use the pins to hold things in place while working on it and reinstalling it in the tongue...which then requires you to remove pins again to insert it...

Then, of course, starting the brake line back in the bypass solenoid inside the tongue was another chore.
There was not much slop in that fitting on the end of the hose, and doing that in a 4" wide channel, laying on your back, dodging the brake fluid drips so they don't land in your eye...well lets just say I should have been wearing a helmet...or safety glasses...managed to not get any DOT 3 in the eye, but I do have a knot on the back of my skull from bumping it on the concrete...live and learn...this process was another 35 minutes, especially since you can only turn the nut on the brake line fitting about 1/16 of a revolution before repositioning your wrench (see the dreaded 4" wide tongue channel).

Anyway, I got it all back together, then used about half a can of goop to get my hands 95% clean...I think they won't be back to 100% grime free until Christmas.

Tonight it is bleed the brakes, I didn't have time to do that last night, and my buddy's second set of hands weren't available either.

So, sorry about the pics, but didn't want tongue grime and brake fluid on my $1k iphone....shouldve known better...if you want an idea of the hell...check this video.

This video is from an older model A60. This one was used on the removable toungue. The swingaway toungue uses the newer version with the breakaway going around a bushing under the shock absorber instead of the little elbow piece on the side of the master cylinder. Also the top rollers in front are now plastic. the length of the cable is different on the newer one and reverse solenoid attached to the back of the master cylinder.

When I had one of these older models ( for 10 years) I got a matching hydraulic coupler on the end of the hose so I made up a short hose with the fitting and bled the master cylinder on the bench and avoided bleeding the whole system again after master cylinder repair. It seems like i forgot to unhook the breakaway cable at least once a year.

[MichaelJ3]

FYI, Yes, that is the older one...agreed...my setup is more like you mention, but my front rollers are metal...the rear ones next to the Master Cylinder are plastic. My breakaway cable is aroud the busing in the bolt...

That was the best video I could find that actually showed the disassembly and reassembly...again, I had intended to document my hell...but got distracted and honed in on fixing it.

[dean c]

The best bleed I could get on my bay boat trailer after replacing a brake line that a hole had worn in was to use the asian bass guy's video. He uses a jar with clean brake fluid in it and a hose from the bleeder screw going into the jar...I did do the master cylinder bleed also.

[MichaelJ3]

Did the bleed tonight, used the harbor freight hand pump vacuum bleeder.

It seemed like I had a ton of air in there, and the fluid needed to be flushed anyway, was pretty brown.

I probably sucked a pint of new fluid through the system with the bleeder, had my buddy up front keeping the master cylinder full. I picked up a 2oz syringe from the pharmacy for about $2, this was the perfect way to keep the master cylinder topped up.

Finally, after I was to the point of sucking no air with the bleeder. I closed the bleeder valve, had my buddy pump up the master cylinder, then I opened the bleeder and had him pump it manually a few times up front, no air was escaping, so I closed the bleeder valve, capped it, topped off the reservoir to the proper level, and cleaned up.

Took her for a ride, brakes working well, no clunk whatsoever.

Im going to be more diligent on checking the brake fluid. That reservoir is not very big. My conjecture is that it doesn’t have enough reserve capacity to account for pad wear, then it gets low, sloshes around during driving, bumps, hills, etc. This lets air in the system.

Brake fluid checks will be happening on my boat monthly, and I’ll plan on a complete flush every 3 years, based on the crappy looking fluid I pulled out. Thanks all for your ideas and counsel. This was not a hard job, but having a second set of hands to help and a vacuum bleeder made it easier.

[KandKKustomz]

Did the bleed tonight, used the harbor freight hand pump vacuum bleeder.

It seemed like I had a ton of air in there, and the fluid needed to be flushed anyway, was pretty brown.

I probably sucked a pint of new fluid through the system with the bleeder, had my buddy up front keeping the master cylinder full. I picked up a 2oz syringe from the pharmacy for about $2, this was the perfect way to keep the master cylinder topped up.

Finally, after I was to the point of sucking no air with the bleeder. I closed the bleeder valve, had my buddy pump up the master cylinder, then I opened the bleeder and had him pump it manually a few times up front, no air was escaping, so I closed the bleeder valve, capped it, topped off the reservoir to the proper level, and cleaned up.

Took her for a ride, brakes working well, no clunk whatsoever.

Im going to be more diligent on checking the brake fluid. That reservoir is not very big. My conjecture is that it doesn’t have enough reserve capacity to account for pad wear, then it gets low, sloshes around during driving, bumps, hills, etc. This lets air in the system.

Brake fluid checks will be happening on my boat monthly, and I’ll plan on a complete flush every 3 years, based on the crappy looking fluid I pulled out. Thanks all for your ideas and counsel. This was not a hard job, but having a second set of hands to help and a vacuum bleeder made it easier.

did you make a video on bleeding w the vacuum bleeder?

[MichaelJ3]

No sorry, I failed...really was so limited on time getting this thing all done I was unable to document any of the effort with pics...but here is what I used:

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-63391.html

Not a lot to see, here is what you do:

1. Hook a section of hose to the bleeder valve on the caliper -- I added a little silicone grease to help the seal, then snugged it with a small zip tie.
2. Hook the other end to the fitting on the container from the bleeder tool kit, use a little silicone grease to aid the seal. Snug this with a zip tie.
3. Hook the other hose to the other fitting on the container and run it to the hand pump. Silicone grease on those fittings too, Snugged both of these fittings w/ a zip tie too.
4. Buddy at the front, with the brake fluid and syringe, keeping the master cylinder topped up. Me under the back wheel, on my back, hand pump in one hand, 7/16" wrench in the other.
5. I pumped the hand pump till I had about 20-30lb of Vacuum on the system.
6. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, see the nasty brake fluid and air bubbles coming down the hose.
7. Keep pumping the hand pump, Buddy up front "I can see the fluid going down, adding more"
8. Watch for air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve and into the hose and for the used fluid to fill the spent fluid container
9. If Container full, close the bleeder screw on the caliper and empty the container, goto 5
10. If air bubbles still coming out of the bleeder screw on the caliper, goto 7
11. Finally, after about killing my forearm from the constant pumping, and 5-6 fills of the spent fluid container, the fluid was nice and fresh looking, and no bubbles coming from the bleeder screw.
12. Tightened the bleeder screw one last time.
13. Removed the vacuum pump from the hose to release the vacuum.
14. Had my buddy stick the screwdriver in the trailer tongue to actuate the brakes, felt nice and stiff.
15. Had my buddy hold the brakes applied, I slowly opened the bleeder screw on the caliper, buddy said "I just felt it get loose".
16. I observed no air bubbles coming out, told my buddy "Hold it there"
17. I tightened the Caliper Bleeder screw.
18. My buddy released the Brakes and pulled the screwdriver out...
19. Done....

[KandKKustomz]

No sorry, I failed...really was so limited on time getting this thing all done I was unable to document any of the effort with pics...but here is what I used:

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-63391.html

Not a lot to see, here is what you do:

1. Hook a section of hose to the bleeder valve on the caliper -- I added a little silicone grease to help the seal, then snugged it with a small zip tie.
2. Hook the other end to the fitting on the container from the bleeder tool kit, use a little silicone grease to aid the seal. Snug this with a zip tie.
3. Hook the other hose to the other fitting on the container and run it to the hand pump. Silicone grease on those fittings too, Snugged both of these fittings w/ a zip tie too.
4. Buddy at the front, with the brake fluid and syringe, keeping the master cylinder topped up. Me under the back wheel, on my back, hand pump in one hand, 7/16" wrench in the other.
5. I pumped the hand pump till I had about 20-30lb of Vacuum on the system.
6. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, see the nasty brake fluid and air bubbles coming down the hose.
7. Keep pumping the hand pump, Buddy up front "I can see the fluid going down, adding more"
8. Watch for air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve and into the hose and for the used fluid to fill the spent fluid container
9. If Container full, close the bleeder screw on the caliper and empty the container, goto 5
10. If air bubbles still coming out of the bleeder screw on the caliper, goto 7
11. Finally, after about killing my forearm from the constant pumping, and 5-6 fills of the spent fluid container, the fluid was nice and fresh looking, and no bubbles coming from the bleeder screw.
12. Tightened the bleeder screw one last time.
13. Removed the vacuum pump from the hose to release the vacuum.
14. Had my buddy stick the screwdriver in the trailer tongue to actuate the brakes, felt nice and stiff.
15. Had my buddy hold the brakes applied, I slowly opened the bleeder screw on the caliper, buddy said "I just felt it get loose".
16. I observed no air bubbles coming out, told my buddy "Hold it there"
17. I tightened the Caliper Bleeder screw.
18. My buddy released the Brakes and pulled the screwdriver out...
19. Done....

and clunk is gone? Nice