2017 Nitro Z-21 Pro Performance w/ 250HP OptiMax Motor
Minn Kota Ultrex 112lb/36v/45"
2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD SLT - Diesel
O.K. You have 4 batteries. One is a house battery. Then, the mainr battery is a source for the 36 volt trolling motor, right? You switch in the house battery when the main goes dead. If this is the scenario, the motor battery has been run down repeatedly and the good trolling motor pair is forcing reverse current through it and it's wasted. Shot. If a battery is run beyond its ability to produce current repeatedly and especially if it's in series with another batter(ies)y it ruins it internally.
If you have three batteries powering the trolling motor, none of which is the starting battery, then this does not apply.
Sounds like you just have a dead .. bad battery... I pick up my new boat last year and the first couple times out my motor alarm was going off.. battery was fully charged.. took it back to the dealer . Ran the codes from the motor and Mercury said it was a bad cell in the battery . That was setting the alarm off . Oil pump alarm .. if the voltage was to low it’s would go off.. to protect the motor...
maybe it just a battery itself...
Mercury Pro Team
2017 Triton 20 TRX Patriot
250 Opti Max Pro XS
Twin 8' Power Pole Blades
2 Solix 12 gen 3 , with mega 360
Chance are, he has a total of four 12V batteries. One of the trolling motor batteries are also connected in parallel to the cranking battery via the battery 1, 2, or both switch.
It would be tough to find a battery to last 18 while running all these accessories.
His best, and perhaps cheapest route to go, would be to add a Minn Kota 36V (MK 3DC)on board alternator and run his engine a bit more often while on the water.
https://minnkotamotors.johnsonoutdoo...nator?id=13901
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Sounds like you got hosed on the AGM battery that was supposed to be included in the upgrade if you're able to check water in it. AGM batteries are sealed, so there's no water checking. It might be worth it to go to the dealer for an explanation.
Some good advice and not-so-good advice in this thread. CatFan, as you might be able to tell by the board of which he is a moderator, is incredibly knowledgeable about batteries. Listen to what he says!
The advice mysuzytoo gave is good - you need an absolute horse of a cranking battery for the Optimax, especially in a bass boat application running accessories. That X2 Power from Batteries Plus, while spendy, is excellent and would ensure you don't have more problems, at least for a long while. Another good option if you really want to be sure is the Northstar AGM. Pick a group 31 in either. The "cheaper" option that some are going towards (though mostly on older motors for reasons that aren't worth getting into here) is to use a commercial battery intended for use on large trucks and buses. Sam's Club sells one under the Duracell brand name in a group 31 for about $100. NAPA sells the same one for slightly more, and has an option with a little more cranking amps for a higher cost as well. This option will work, but will require maintenance (checking water) and doesn't have the same reserve capacity as the much pricier AGMs which means running your accessories for longer periods of time will discharge it more fully and will diminish the life.
Please don't take this the wrong way - and I don't think you will - but it sounds like you don't have a lot of experience in dealing with boats and boat batteries. My advice would be to grab a big AGM like the one from Batteries Plus or the Northstar, put it in, and continue on your way. No maintenance required other than just sticking it on the charger like you've been doing.
Only one caution with going that route: do you know what charger your boat has? Given how new the boat is, I'm certain the charger is compatible with AGM batteries. However, some need a different charging profile activated to make sure the AGM is being properly charged.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
DrewFlu33...Well said!
These guys have given you good info. I am pretty sure you have 4 12 volt batteries. One is your starting battery for cranking your motor, pumps, lights, graphs, etc. The other three are your trolling motor batteries. The switch is only to jump the cranking battery off a trolling motor battery if it is dead. Sounds like you have a bad cranking battery. FYI make sure your batteries are wired up correctly. Some dealers wire the jump start up incorrect. That happened on a Ranger of mine. Also make sure the on board charger is wired up correctly and charging. I bet you, you need a new cranking battery. Get a Optima 31 blue top, Deka 31, or something with 1000 MCA and reserve of 160-200. Yes MCA - Marine cranking amps.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
He doesn't have a lot of options other than to shorten his fishing day or doing some long runs with the main motor. Yes, he could add another battery in parallel and leave it. He could also move some of his accessories over to another one of his TM batteries. Either way, it would be difficult to run everything he needs (lights, wells, graphs, ect) on the one battery for 18 hours.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
How did I know when I started reading this thread interstates were involved. There is a reason a lot of dealers install this brand and it’s not cause they are quality. My opinion as some like them but most don’t
2018 Phoenix 920 Pro XP
Trolling motor batteries aren't the issue here. As catfan said, the Stealth or any other power distributing alternator won't help at all. The alternator on his motor is already charging the cranking battery while running! The only thing those will help with is charging trolling motor batteries AFTER the cranking battery is topped off. Clearly he's not having his cranking battery get topped off, else it wouldn't be dying.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
I've already stated the power comes from the main engine while running. However, by the end of the day he is running out of power. That doesn't mean the MK alternator wouldn't benefit him earlier during the day to make his day last longer, especially when he'd be using less accessories and making more runs with his main motor in between. 20 minute runs can make a big difference.
How well does the MK Alternator work on your boat? Same question for you Drew? How long have you guys been using it? On what setup? If they are not beneficial, why are they being sold? It definitely makes my TM batteries last longer. Also, after a long night fishing trip, the extra juice added to the TM batteries has helped me start the main engine via a parallel circuit (like this guy has) a few times. Furthermore, the theory behind this unit is that after the main battery is charged, the excess energy is then transferred to the TM batteries (again, while the main engine is running). However, there is no smart device in the motor to know the main is full. This is controlled by the MK Alternator. Which, when 12.5V on the cranking battery is reached, the TM batteries start to get juice.
The key is going to be power consumption management. Which again, he could still transfer some of his accessories, not often used, to the TM batteries (like his talons, and bow unit). The less of a drain on the main battery would allow the cranking battery to fill up quicker and allow the MK alternator to then charge the TM batteries supporting both his TM needs and the accessories connected to those batteries.
So what's your fix? Go with a M3140-36 36V 40Ah Trolling Battery and use three 12V in parallel for cranking and accessories?
Absolutely no way the MK charger would do anything but shorten the day. The entire idea is 100% without any grounding in reality. Stealing power from the cranking battery when it is discharged will shorten your day on the water. The extra power going to the the TM batteries is power stolen from the cranking battery, then processed through an inefficient converter which produces less power than what it takes from the outboard.
What you are suggesting is the same as suggesting that siphoning 5 gallons of gas out of your tank, spilling a gallon on the ground, then putting the rest back in the tank would let you drive further.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I and several others still contend--- all that is needed to solve your problem !!
Start and run your engine before the battery runs down..
Following...…..just for fun