I am reading about boats that take their onboard 3-4 bank charger, put them all on the crank so its 30-40 amps and then use a run and gun charger to go from a 36V TM batter to the crank and one from a 16V electronics battery to crank. Is this accurate? When the on board is plugged in on shore, after the crank is charged do the run and gun kick in and start charging the TM and Electroncis? I know with engine started they do, but how about when plug in at night?
I read everything you said also. And I saw just to 80% for the crank and then power starts going to the others. And I read if stacking banks on one battery for charging it's best to keeps the total amps going to the battery at 1/3 or less of the total battery compacity amps hours, so with a 100 amp hour battery it would be 33 amp charge or less. They said it's best for battery life. And this is for a lithium crank battery they were talking about.
Originally Posted by Skeeterzx19
I have a stealth it charges ANY time the primary battery is xxx charged. The stealth doesnt put out much so I have also added a 3x5 noco on my trolling batteries.
the charge on the run charger will pull current from the main charger once the starting battery reaches its required voltage to close the relay
So at 80% capacity of crank the run and gun will start charging the TM and one will charge electronic battery. But as someone said it doesn't put out much. So when plugged in, how many amps of power are going to the battery? How much longer would it take vs say being on its own charging 1x10 bank like everyone always does.
On my boat I have a Pro Mariner Pro Tournament Elite 360 4 bank charger that has one lead connected to my cranking battery (31 AGM) and the other lead going to my house/emergency battery. The other 2 leads are capped off and not connected to anything. I have Impulse Lithium’s run and gun 36v charger and their single 36v trolling motor battery. When I plug my onboard charger in at home, the series of lights on the on board charger that is connected to the cranking battery pulses from whatever SOC % the cranking battery is down to about 25%. When the lights drop to that lower level, then current is being transferred to my lithium through the run and gun charger……when looking at the Impulse app on phone, the incoming charging amps goes from 10 amps to 0 coinciding with the pulsing of my Pro Mariner charger on bank 1. Everything works as it should. I do not have dedicated 36v lithium charger on my boat. I’m going on year 2 with this set up and could not be happier with the performance of this technology.
Last edited by redzone1; 03-28-2024 at 05:59 AM.
Have u checked how long it takes to charge the house and TM battery after crank is charged. I would end up doing a 36v battery for tm also. Must be at least double the time...however I suppose if plugged in overnight then doesn't matter...but curious
Danny at Stealth can answer your questions with factual information. I would call him leave a message and he will call you back. Be prepared to chat for quite a while.
What's the info for stealth? What's company full name so can look up. Thanks
http://www.stealth1charging.com/
I currently have a LA cranking battery 1000CA (Evinrude ETec G2 225HO). I want to possibly switch to a Li Iron Phosphate crank battery (not sure what Evinrude recommends now but they didn't recommend Li cranking batteries at one point). There are plenty of testimonials of Li cranking batteries being used on G2's though.
Is there really a big difference in the charger that specifies the difference between the two types of cranking batteries that I would need to get a new run and gun charger if I make the switch? What is the difference? if you can say that is.
Thanks
Our charger turns on at the following voltage. Also our charger has a selectable input and can be used on either configuration
AGM/Lead - 13.3v
Lithium - 13.6v
Also our charger has a selectable input and can be used on either configuration (Agm or Lithium)
Why do people have to complicate batteries and chargers so much? I keep it very simple 4 batteries 4 bank charger one bank hooked to each battery, outboard only charges the cranking battery which has all the other accessories hooked to it and the trolling motor is on its own batteries. I can fish 10 hours or more with this setup and never run out of power. If you feel the need to add another battery for electronics keep it by itself and have a charger for it or buy a charger with more banks. Adding a run and gun or Power Pole style charger or trying to parallel two for the cranking battery is more expense and complication than it's worth.
To some your configuration sounds overly complicated.
Not really, it's as simple as it gets, 3 batteries for the trolling motor, one for everything else and one set of leads from the charger hooked to each battery.
Sorry I should have been more specific, for the charge on the fly "run and gun" model...
Why do you need to charge your trolling motor batteries on the fly?
Why not charge the on the fly? Top them off. If you do much moving around you wont need to plug in daily.
Why would you need another charger if you added a 5th battery for electronics? Your alternator will keep the start battery 100% charged all the time so no charger needed on it....
For the same reason that cranking and house batteries get charged on the run.
Now airplanes do charge their batteries on the fly.
If you trolling motor batteries need charged throughout the day then you need ones with more capacity.
Reply With Quote