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When you get on the phone with those guys, you need to be prepared to answer any question they might have (ie: need access to everything and anything related). Versions, connections, what happens...

You can ohms test the circuits of the switch with the switch disconnected, or test for voltage coming out of the switch (Blue-Sky-Up, Green-Grass-Down).

:thumb up2:

Also WHICH Optimax motor do you have (preferably with serial number)?

After you verify no broken wire coming from shift handle through panel, it would be good to know which control you have (one picture showing it would help).

If it's a Ranger, a black box, tie-wrapped to the PCM wiring harness. It's connected to the trim sender, and if your sender did as you said, the problem is very likely the sender itself.

Just about anything from hickup or stutter to "I refuse to do anything today".

Proper battery type, capacity, and voltage is one of the "Cardinal Rules" for the Optimax.

Most any modern engine...

Temp: Varies by calibration, usually in the 165+ range, but depends on several other data factors and how recently the engine was started.

Smartcraft displays a "Smart Average" of the two...

Either can cause this.

Please get this addressed before running it again- it is a potential SAFETY hazard to you, your boat, and those around you.

It does need to build up pressure... usually at least 60 seconds of running (may require more in some cases). THEN attempt to bleed.

As for "If you main tank is not full"... that would be 80% of...

Another thing you could do... add an LED (MUST, MUST be an LED) in parallel to the warning horn. PCM looks at the circuit while sending that "Test Beep" signal, so the LED prevents the PCM from...

+1... though usually combined with some level of ignoring signs and warnings that a problem is there (NOT always, however).

Knock on oil drums... only problems I've seen locally were two that were...

+1... Next time it occurs, listen VERY carefully for any type of "click" inside the engine cowling when you attempt to start.

Also, move the shifter handle as Phil suggested. The switch in that...

Hmmmnnn... make sure to remove the Fuel Filter (the one with the water in fuel sensor) and dump it's contents into a glass jar. If water is found there, the fuel system module (FSM) is likely also...

Try type A1-15. That's the new designation for that hose type.

Odd part is that the manual DOES show it available (there's even screens shown displaying it).

Be careful about referring to the "app", as that would be a completely different device/system...

Likely bad reed or debris in the reeds.

+1.... may even be Type A1-15, 5/8" ID (usually quite thick OD).

Replace the crankcase pressure check valve. A properly functioning valve allows pressure OUT of the crankcase but not back in.

AND the check valve will leak back EVER SO SLOWLY (to bleed...

Let's clarify that what's occurring is you turn the key on, test beep and gauges light up, you turn key to START and NOTHING (no click, beep, or starter spinning occurs)?

Try www.mercurypartsonline.net (and use your Serial Number). In most cases, the part will supersede as you place it in the shopping cart.

"Replacing" the fuel system is going to be a VERY...

May not need "rebuilt"- first place to look is the Manual Relief Valve.

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the Required Info (Serial Number) when posting. Thanks! :beers:

Maintenance items...

Vibration may be due to the way the hub was installed. Remove and if it's an SSR Hub Kit, see the FAQ Section for suggestions on proper installation.

REALLY need to get a lower pitch prop on...

It's almost certainly on the Merc side...