Set the float drops correctly?
Type: Posts; User: ChampioNman
Set the float drops correctly?
Just found out about this one, Cucumber Gatorade and Tito's vodka! Sounds refreshing.
What does EVdiags say? Did you install the correct adapter plate gasket?
Local dealer (need to support you locals) then in no particular order www.crowleymarine.com www.marineengine.com www.boats.net
#0438996 if you need float bowls #0433000 don't forget to transfer...
Model number and/or picture sure would help.
Order the rebuild kit from www.maxrules.com or get the dual stacked pump for the 60* and premix that pump from the same site goes for about $200, it is plug and play.
Gotta love Fenway!
Iron City.
You're lucky if you get to see the PCP, most only get the nurse practitioner.
Worse case is you may need an adapter cable for the wiring harness. the wiring harness changed in 1996 to the MWS design from the big red plug.
G2 plugs are self indexing no need for 8 the A suffix on the plug has the improved pad on the electrode.
Looking at his posts he's gone to Mercury
On vacation fishing on the Big O, first vacation in 10 years he'll figure it out let jjue1979 fix it with the almighty youtube and seafoam.
We do model number not serial numbers
May have to try an engine bone yard.
If you replace the carb bowls make sure you remove the high speed orifices behind the carb bowl drain screws, for the spaghetti O rings use a little dab of BRP triple guard grease to keep them in...
Yes but TPS is quicker to check.
Possible bad TPS.
:pimp:
Amen. :praying:
What no Freeman?
:crying: Sorry for your loss, it is never easy.
That would be 1991 model year. The 150 was around 165 hp and the 175 was about 190 HP.
You gonna send it Reggie or you want me to? Don't want to send duplicates.
Not quite sure what you are calling a poppit valve.