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I’m going to take it out tomorrow and get better pics of what it looks like on each transducer at different depths and maybe that’ll make it easier to get to the bottom of it. I’m also going to see...

This was my initial thought and I was going to move it but then it looked the same on the front units using the 3-1 nose cone.

Less blurry but still blurry. Brush piles in 25ft aren even distinguishable as brush piles. I used to be able to see individual limbs on my GEN 2s

But the issue is the same with both transducers on the boat. The 3-1 on the back and the 3-1 nose cone.

Ok, apparently that worked. Got a couple of pics on

The 3-1 nosecone is the only one that has ever seen the water. It was swapped out during installation. I may swap it back out this weekend and see what it looks like

https://www.bbcboards.net/blob:https://www.bbcboards.net/fd3ae64a-2aff-4213-a12a-b9a5e4a2ce85 Tried cutting and pasting the photos but that didn’t work either

Can’t get a pic to upload from my phone on here. It’s miles worse than the Sidescan and significantly worse than Downscan from my Gen2 units. It’s definitely not Lowrance’s intended result. There is...

Tried multiple times but it keeps saying the photo exceeds the max resolution I can upload.

It’s the same in all pallets.

I just added 4 new HDS Live 9s with 3-1 Active Image transducer and 3-1 AI nosecone. My 2D and sidescan are crystal clear, but downscan is super blurry. Like so blurry and pixelated it looks like...

No cranking. I’m using this just as a dedicated electronics battery. I keep a booster pack in the boat for cranking emergencies if ever needed.

I think Bluetooth would be nice but I’m not sure if...

Even if it is only 8 amps, it still tells me I need at least a 100AH for a full tournament practice day. So does anyone have any thoughts on brands?

I just installed 4 new HDS Pro units and Active Target. I ran all new wire for a dedicated system for just the graphs and Active Target. I haven't gotten the battery to power them yet because I have...

It could be and I will test it out and see, but I know I need everything that motor has fishing the tailrace below Wilson Dam! There were many times I wished I had more than what my Fortrex could...

Thanks, seeing it really helps make it easier to understand!

This is what I’m leaning towards(in addition to upgrading to lithium if I find one that fits). What’s the best setup? Is it better to use a bus or block vs a Y at the console? What gauges do you guys...

Will definitely check it out and see if it can fit in there!

I have the Ghost to go on with the upgrade but I don’t really think 24v is gonna give me what I need. I fish a ton of current and often had to rip 100% all day just to hold a spot.

It’s the original block and wiring. I only added an additional unit at the bow and console. I never really liked running through that fuse block because occasionally I’d get some interference from...

2 at the bow. I’m looking to add a 3rd which is why I want to beef the voltage up as much as possible.

Everything has been thoroughly load tested and confirmed with the multimeter at all locations. The drop is post fuse block and only at the end of the day. I’ll have 13.4v at both console and bow in...

I’m upgrading all of my electronics and rewiring as much as I can in the boat to have the freshest system possible. I would like to eliminate an issue that I had with my old setup. I was losing...

You make an excellent point. I had not considered how/if the foam contacts the fiberglass. I need to take a close look at that. Exactly why I came here for feedback before trying anything.

As for...

After researching R-values of various roll-on/spray on coatings, I have decided to remove the foam from one of my two smallest compartment lids and roll on Dicor insulating roof cover. I'll see how...

Since about 2018 I've used (not in order) contact cement, PVA, gorilla glue, and about 4 different numbers of 3M spray adhesive that are supposed to be "the strongest one". Some worked better than...