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Not the same gearcases. 1B779250 should have a Verado-style gearcase, you COULD use it, they're quite durable (just a tad slower due to geometry)- and they use the standard prop hub (FT-II).

Not...

Might also want to monitor BATTERY VOLTAGE when this is occurring. High voltage can potentially cause ECM shutdown... which would be rather abrupt with virtually no sputtering, engine would restart...

Cleaning is fine as long as it returns fuel pressure back to within spec. If this is the first time you've cleaned it since 2004... don't sweat it and go fishing!

1. Your engine has zero, no, absolutely NONE "Can Circuitry".

2. OMC Gauges are not supported for use on Mercury engines.

Please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the...

No way would I be tearing into my "less than 1 year old" 150 Fourstroke to fix an oil leak.

First and foremost: If you're using MERCURY's oil, it contains UV Trace Dye, meaning UV light (and...

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this is the same boat/instrument/graph/NMEA-2000 situation you posted about in a separate thread. Let's stick to that thread to avoid confusion.

Glad Rhonda was able to get you taken care of.

For future reference, you can also directly order from the website through the Parts Catalog, using your engine serial number. Either will work,...

Set the engine at level trim, connect a garden hose to the flush fitting and slowly turn it on about 1/2 pressure for 1-2 minutes.

Turn hose off, disconnect, reassemble and see if it's still...

From the sound of it, your new boat has a Can-P Gateway Stick, rather than a VesselView LINK. That's why you're seeing the "Can-P Multi" and not the VSL View.

If you indeed had it in your boat,...

Life of plugs will vary based on additives, fuel quality, octane used, and how it's run (idle and WOT are the worst run-times for spark plugs on this engine).

An engine with 41 hours on a set of...

More accurately the Trim Sensor (or a poor connection for the trim sensor or it's ground wire).

Couldn't give a blanket answer to your question, Mikeky. The two I've seen, it's WATER/MOISTURE.

Battery or Battery cable connection problem... or grounds for the electrical plate are poor. Start with the battery and battery cables.... then move to the engine end of those cables, and if still...

Good idea to get someone to listen to the STB/Right side of the engine. Slave solenoid is on the electrical plate below the PCM.

A1-15 and A2 are very similar.

When you get on the phone with those guys, you need to be prepared to answer any question they might have (ie: need access to everything and anything related). Versions, connections, what happens...

You can ohms test the circuits of the switch with the switch disconnected, or test for voltage coming out of the switch (Blue-Sky-Up, Green-Grass-Down).

:thumb up2:

Also WHICH Optimax motor do you have (preferably with serial number)?

After you verify no broken wire coming from shift handle through panel, it would be good to know which control you have (one picture showing it would help).

If it's a Ranger, a black box, tie-wrapped to the PCM wiring harness. It's connected to the trim sender, and if your sender did as you said, the problem is very likely the sender itself.

Just about anything from hickup or stutter to "I refuse to do anything today".

Proper battery type, capacity, and voltage is one of the "Cardinal Rules" for the Optimax.

Most any modern engine...

Temp: Varies by calibration, usually in the 165+ range, but depends on several other data factors and how recently the engine was started.

Smartcraft displays a "Smart Average" of the two...

Either can cause this.

Please get this addressed before running it again- it is a potential SAFETY hazard to you, your boat, and those around you.

It does need to build up pressure... usually at least 60 seconds of running (may require more in some cases). THEN attempt to bleed.

As for "If you main tank is not full"... that would be 80% of...