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  1. #1
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    RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT

    I'm sure this has been addressed before. I need to replace my bunks on my Ranger trailer and have a couple of questions. First, how does a person install and tighten the bolts that attach the bunks to the bunk supports under the new carpet? Second, I helped a guy do his Champion trailer bunks and his bunks were attached with large wood screws from the bottom. Would this be Ok on a Ranger?. I want to measure, cut and carpet the new bunks before hand so I can just drop the boat in the water and replace. What would you guys recommend? I like the idea of no holes in the carpet to hold the head of the bolt. Any suggestions would be appreciated

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  3. Member
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    #2

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    I replaced mine last year. I recarpeted the bunks in the garage. Took it to the lake and lag bolted (Stainless) them to the trailer. Hardest part was gettig the old ones off. Man that was a PITA! Bring a battery operated saws all or hack saw or something like that and a friend.



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    #3

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Chris M)

    Thanks for the reply! We had to use a sawsall and cut my buddies screws off. I'm going to prepare as much as possible. May even rent an electric or air driven stapler. My hands cramped for a week after hundreds of staples. I need to find some good quality bunk carpet.

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    #4

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    Use stainless or monell staples, order the carpet for the bunks from Ranger, and upgrade hardware to stainless.

  6. Member
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    #5

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Tom Rollins)

    Don't use the wood screws from the bottom technique. They will eventually back out and you will have to keep tightening them or have your bunk float off the trailer when you launch.

    Believe it or not, this was one of the reasons I bought a Ranger. My Champ had the wood screws and it was a pain. This also was one reason I didn't choose a Legend.

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    #6

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    I had to replace the brackets on my bunks (rusted) I sprayed the bolts with PB blaster a couple of times before I took the nuts off of the bolts. Worked really well.

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    #7

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (carcass dragger)

    Ok, now I'm confused. should I just live with holes in the carpet to hold the bolt heads and thru bolt or use ss screws from below dipped in 3M 5200 for a little added piece of mind. I have to keep reminding myself that the bolts or screws are just holding the bunks to the trailer. Decisions.... Decisions

  9. Member
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    #8

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    No, before you recarpet, remove the factory studs/bolts, using the proper length and diameter ss bolt, either countersink the bolt hole with a chisel or place the bolt in the hole and drive it with a 2lb hammer down 'till the heads flush. Carcass dragger is correct about the lag bolts backing out, seen it happen on Basscat trailers.

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    #9

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Tom Rollins)

    Thanks for the push towards thru bolt in lieu of lag screws. I stopped by my local Ranger dealer yesterday and talked to a seasoned service guy. He said to either lift or launch the boat, remove old carpeted bunks, place new uncarpeted bunk boards on trailer, align, c-clamp, mark and drill boards. Then, install stainless carriage bolts and hammer the round bolt head down flush in bunk. Recarpet bunk boards over bolts in wood using ss staples then attach to trailer supports. I don't know if I'll jack up the boat or just go and rent a covered marina slip for a couple of days. Anyways, sorry for the dragged out post on this but I want to do it right and maybe give some help for someone else that might be considering changing their's out.

    Thanks so much!

    Texas Rig

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    #10

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    Jerry , Before you run out and buy new bunk boards, remove the carpet from the old ones and inspect the wood. I recarpeted mine ('98 model) a few years ago and the wood was in excellent condition. It appears to be treated yellow pine. If yours is the same, you'll need either an electric or pnuematic stapler to install the carpet, that wood is hard.
    I removed the bunks by jacking the boat at the transom and used carpeted wood blocks to crib the boat on the trailer. A little trial and error and you should be able to figure it out. Go slow! I did one bunk at a time took about a week to complete the bunks, working a couple a couple of hours a day.

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    #11

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Tom Rollins)

    Tom, thanks for the advice. My rig is a 1990 model and the original bunks are pretty warped so I'm going to replace. I might want to talk to you about jacking up the boat. Would it be better to go with the heaviest oz carpet I can find for the bunks?

  13. Member RangerRumps's Avatar
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    #12

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    I did mine last year, bought all the hardware from ranger, i put on new backets and all. ranger had a kit that had the bracket and all the bolts, washers and nuts for like 7 bucks each. do not do what i did and think you know how many there are, had to order 2 more(lol). I have a 93 trailer and its has been used alot and kept outside for almost 20 years and my wood was in great shape. just had to make new hoes where the bolt went, not a big deal. good luck



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    #13

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    Here's another success story:
    I ordered new bunks from Ranger/already carpeted and wasn't much more than ordering all pieces/parts separately. I floated the boat at a local lake during the week and pulled the old bunks off, lined them up with the new ones and drilled the holes, original hardware was fine so reused it.
    While I in the area I replaced the fenderwell boards...removed them at home and used them as patterns for new treated boards, glued carpet...all installed with stainless hardware from Home Depot instead of rivets...looks factory.

  15. Member keefus's Avatar
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    #14

    Re: RANGER TRAILER BUNK REPLACEMENT (Texas Rig)

    I purchased one of these when recarpeting my bunks and used T-50 monel staples 1/2 inch long.The stapler works very good.
    http://www.amazon.com/Surebond...r=8-1

  16. Member
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    #15

    2004 Ranger Trail Trailer Bunk Replacement Question

    This is my first post to this forum.

    I have a 2004 Ranger Boat & Trailer that I used about a dozen times a year (I know, need to get out more) and it is stored indoors during the winter. Last season one of my bunks fell off at the launch and when I checked the brackets that secure the bunks to the trailer I noticed that they were all rusted and in need to be replaced. Since my trailer isn't that old should I need to replace the bunks or just the hardware? After reviewing some post on this forums it seems like I may only need to replace the hardware ( being sure to re-drill new holes in the bunk so that the bolts will tighten properly).

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Bob

  17. Electronics/ Potomac Club/ Ranger Boats Moderator Carlos H's Avatar
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    #16
    Bob,
    Order a new set of L brackets. The new ones are galvanized and a bit more resistant to rust than the old coated ones.

  18. Member TOXIC's Avatar
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    #17
    Here is what they will look like....

    Aquia-20130504-00103.jpg

  19. Retired ME mikesxpress's Avatar
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    #18

    Pressure treated bunk boards contain ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary) and is very corrosive to metals. Galvanized will hold up a little longer that painted metal but it too is susceptible to corrosion at a rapid rate when in constant contact. Add wet bunk boards and trap the water between the board/bracket along with wet carpet that keeps the whole process in motion for weeks while it dries and you will have issues.

    As a mechanical engineer, I only do things one time effectively so I will share what I have done and you can decide for yourself if it’s for you or not. The brackets attached to the pressure treated boards must have a barrier between them to eliminate the constant contact in a wet environment. If the ACQ emitted from the board can drain/dry quickly on the galvanized surface it has little effect. I removed my brackets and abated the corrosion via mechanical means then applied Gem rust converter. 24 hours later the galvanized coating. 6 hours later the rubber barrier coats (2 each) on the top of the bracket.



    Last edited by mikesxpress; 03-20-2014 at 06:02 AM.

    I will have caught every fish twice by the time you get here.

  20. Retired ME mikesxpress's Avatar
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    #19
    I use my I boat in salt and fresh water. If you’re interested in going a step further and eliminating the nasty carpet that holds moisture for weeks, promotes Gelcoat blisters, retains sand/grit that scratches your hull, and is just a PIA for upkeep. Send me an email and I will hook you up on how to do this with a no-mar synthetic material that drains and is easy to install with a 5 year warranty. *You can kick to the curb the issues of it being slick and marking the hull.


    I will have caught every fish twice by the time you get here.

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