2011 ranger trail brake fluid bleeding trials

Well watched some you tube videos and didn't think it looked like too big of a job. Actually didn't think it was until this afternoon.
However, I got the trailer off the jack to tighten up the lug nuts and never gave the wheel a spin to see if it was free. Drove the boat 20 min to the shed and could smell the brakes. The wheels and brakes were super hot. The release valve was pushed up before I took off. Man it's always something...looked like a pretty simple job. Any ideas or troubleshooting at this point??

Dragging brakes like that isn’t a bleeding issue. Actuator sticking or a kink in the line acting as a check valve would be likely culprits.

Why did the brakes need bleeding? Parts changed?

I bought the boat and trailer used. The reservoir was empty and looked a bit rusty in the little bit that was left. I was just trying to do some maintenance on it.

You may need to do a lot more than fluid and bleed. You may have an open brake line or bad caliper. Need to go thru the complete system.

If the reservoir had signs of corrosion you have other issues that will need addressed prior to bleeding the system.

Anyway to bypass the system to get the pads to release so I can get it somewhere to look at besides myself? Feel like I’m getting over my head now.

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Originally Posted by kyduck

Anyway to bypass the system to get the pads to release so I can get it somewhere to look at besides myself? Feel like I’m getting over my head now.

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You can open a bleeder or crack a line at a connection. That will release pressure if that is the issue.

After a bit of research I may have overfilled the master cylinder reservoir. If I correct this how do you check the wheel drag issue after??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kyduck

After a bit of research I may have overfilled the master cylinder reservoir. If I correct this how do you check the wheel drag issue after??

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Overfilling shouldn’t matter. It will just spill out.

Just to be sure, are these disc brakes?

Yes

I'd replace the entire system since you already have rust issues and the only way to fix that is to replace.

Is the trailer a dual axle? Brakes on both axles? If single axle it's a lot easier to work on. May need new calibers and master cylinder. Not hard to do if your mechanically inclined. You could also have a leak in one of the break lines. Check for leaks and if none start with the calipers. Could be only one frozen caliper that needs replaced.