Repositioning batteries for better lift, weight distribution, etc...

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In an attempt to positively affect the balance point of the hull and promote bow lift on my 2021 Ranger RT198P, do you think it is worth the effort to move my 3 batts... let's call that 160lbs... from where they are to the positions I have marked up in red? So 2 batts as far back against the transom as possible on either side of the open access to the bilge, and the 3rd turned sideways and centered in front of that bilge access?

Hoping someone who has done similar to a 19-21ft tin or glass bass boat will chime in... especially to boats with the gas tank under the seats like mine. Because of my boat's balance point, and because of needing some more horsepower, the boat naturally wants to run flat but will get up on pad. Searching for a little more lift.

Pretty sure it will not hurt but not sure if it will help...

I don't think it will make much difference, the main problem is a 150 HP motor is too small for a nearly 20' long bass boat, to perform like some people want it to.

Get rid of the acid batteries and get Lithium to run the troller and then move everything heavey in the bow back as far as you can leaving tackle that you don't need at home or in the truck.

I think moving them back will help with bow lift because it will shift the fulcrum point further aft,a jackplate will also help with bow lift if the warranty will allow it. But moving them aft might also slow the hole shot.

Move the weight to the right side as much as possible and to the back. Bass boats need 150 plus pounds on the right side to counter the prop rotation that is trying to rotate the boat counter clockwise, yes it seems odd and will cause it to list to the right at low speeds, but helps top end and reduces chine walk considerably

Leon, when you say "right" side I assume you mean starboard/driver's side? Cause my batts are biased towards the port/passenger side now.

Another thought is I often boat alone... yes all my friends are with me... so there is already a starboard weight bias in this instance.

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Originally Posted by lpugh

Move the weight to the right side as much as possible and to the back. Bass boats need 150 plus pounds on the right side to counter the prop rotation that is trying to rotate the boat counter clockwise, yes it seems odd and will cause it to list to the right at low speeds, but helps top end and reduces chine walk considerably

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I don't think moving the batteries will make any noticeable changes. I recommend checking the running surface to confirm it is flat. I've seen numerous aluminum hulls with convex, concave and rippled running surfaces.

I moved the batts back and moved weight from the bow lockers back. Made maybe a small but hard to perceive difference.

Good point, James. My aluminum "pad" area does have imperfections. You cannot really "blueprint" an aluminum like you can a glass boat. Not that very many glass owners do that either.

Many of the aluminum boat manufacturers use the term "Pad Hull", however this is a stretch of the term. I'm not familiar with your hull; curious if there any trim tabs welded on the bottom. Some mfrs. weld on these tabs to keep the hull from porpoising. These tabs force the bow down. I recommend checking the running surface with a 4 foot straight edge. What is your current max speed, at what rpm and what prop?

James, there are no trim tabs but there are "performance welds" where the transom meets the hull. Already looking at those. Some owners of this hull grind this weld off.

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Originally Posted by Johnnyred

James, there are no trim tabs but there are "performance welds" where the transom meets the hull. Already looking at those. Some owners of this hull grind this weld off.

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Picture please

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Not sure how large this picture will display but the welds where the transom meets hull bottom are the non-structural performance welds. Many aluminum boat owners not just Ranger owners polish these down to improve lift.

Curious about what prop, max rpm & speed. Also, have you measured prop to pad?

Right now I'm 5300rpm @ 52mph with a 23p Bravo 1 FS. Similar numbers with a Tempest Plus 22p but with much less grip and handling not as good. All numbers via Vesselview Link and Smartcraft. Not enough lift. But numbers from other owners of this hull/motor for this redesigned model year is 56mph ish.

My initial guess was upper 5k for rpms and mid to upper 50s for speed. I recommend speaking with your dealer, as I suspect the performance weld is the issue. Also, check if throttle body is achieving full open.

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Originally Posted by PSM207

My initial guess was upper 5k for rpms and mid to upper 50s for speed. I recommend speaking with your dealer, as I suspect the performance weld is the issue. Also, check if throttle body is achieving full open.

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James, you must do this for a living!

Already in touch with the dealer. We are angling towards getting together with the boat after the New Year holiday.

54-57mph in the upper 5k rpm range is what owners who are setup right are getting with this model year hull.

I have visited Don Weed in Greenville SC to have him look at the motor and verify the throttle plate is fully open when throttle is fully deployed. It was 99% and he tweaked it a tiny bit.

Johnnyred - Instant message sent to you.

That's not a performance weld it's the weld that hold the bottom to the stern and the best way to fix it is re-weld the hull on the inside then grind the outside weld flat. A few guys have tried filling the weld area flat which should help some but those hulls have deflections in them in between the bracing and there isn't much you can do for that. Do you have a Pro xs motor or a regular 150, that could make a big difference since they are geared different. The Pro xs has 2.08 gears and the regular 150 has 1.92 gears.

The boat is already welded in that location on the inside. Ranger calls the inside welds structural welds as they are what's holding the transom to the bottom of the hull. The outside welds are called performance welds by Ranger and yes they are there to control porpoising or whatever. However this hull doesn't porpoise and has lack of lift. Yes lots of owners of many brands of aluminum boats grind those welds off if there are internal welds already.