Lets talk about Triton"Chine Walk myth"...and what its really doing :)

Hello Mike,
I have recently acquired a '99 TR-21 and I put my '02 Honda on it with a 6" jackplate. My WOT is at 63 medium load. So far I have only encountered minimal Chine Walk at 62 mph so I don't think I have to really worry about it. My question is this about the Chine Walk- I have looked at the bottom of the hull and notice a flat "pad" that starts just forward of the center of the boat on the keel and extends to the back. This is a FLAT pad. It would seem that the boat would be stable on this flat surface vs. a conventional Keel extending all the way to the back. I would assume that chine walking would be MORE with a keel boat than a Triton with the flat pad. Just curious if the other Triton models have this flat pad or is it just my TR-21 and maybe that is why I am NOT getting any Chine Walk OR maybe my Tug Boat speed is not fast enough for Chine Walking?
thanks,
ron

What size honda did you put on your boat, and what rpms are you turning? I don't think you are going fast enough to get severe chine walk, but I could be wrong. With my boat it would start around 62-63 mph, and would get worse as the speed increased. Once I learned how to drive it, I don't get anymore chine walking. It may get a little loose on me every now and then, but it is easy to correct. When I first got the boat, the first thing I did was run it up to 67-68!!!! I just about threw my uncle out of the boat, and I almost $h!t my pants.

I've got a Honda 225 running 5800 rpm's with a stock lower unit. If I had the Sabre high speed then I could expect 3-5mph more. I think you are right that I am not getting fast enough to fully encounter the chinewalk effects. But was wondering why a boat with a flat pad could chine walk at all. I would think a flat pad is more stable than a keel pad? But I don't know about hull designs.

What prop are you running? You should be going a lot faster than 63 mph.

I've got a PowerTech 23 and also a Honda 25. I tried the smaller diameter Tempest 25 but it is not enough prop and blows out on holeshot and if I get up on plane it only does 55mph with 5800 rpms. My main restriction is the stock lower unit. It is not a high speed unit like most other guys are running and also my motor is an upgraded 200 to a 225 via ECU and the other mods so I am not sure if I am getting the FULL potential of a REGULAR 225. My only other option is to go to a 21" prop and try and gain the 200 rpm's up to 6000 since a Honda doesn't redline until approx. 6400 (so I have been told. nobody will claim the redline limit! LOL)
I have raised it to the best performing height and from recommendations from other Triton/Honda owners. I just don't want to get into the Chinewalk at 62 and not have enough to "push through" it if my best/max is 63 mph. What would happen if I put WEDGES on the Boat to lift the Nose higher. I know some boats run nose high but I am not familiar with the Triton yet.

There is no "push through" of chine man, you just have to learn to drive it. It's not hard and once you do it the first time, it will become second nature so quick you'll unconsciously do it all the time and keep the boat straight and level.

Mike, just a question - I'm running an 08' 21X2 DC w/ 250XS on a 10" manual plate and 26P Fury (1 small PVS), and 4 Optima batteries. Assuming pad to shaft height is correct, and with an average tournament load (3/4 tank of fuel) - what would you expect the GPS speed to be @ WOT? Currently, I'm only getting 60-62 mph GPS out of her WOT at around 5800 rpm's or so (never chines, either). I realize the X2 hull is a little slower than the HP hulls, but I feel like she should be riding a little faster under prime set up (mine may not be prime, have to check her - I did not do the set up). Ran a TR21 prior to this and she ran 75+ mph GPS @ WOT (no problems running through the chine). I don't expect the same performance due to the hull difference - just looking for some feedback on what the 21X2 should be giving.

Thanks Mike I have a TR 21 with a 250 XS and the chine walk starts at 72.2 MPH. I have tried many so called tricks but nothing has solved the issue. So I am very interested in everything you have to say. I have listen to guys say you can steer thru it but I have not been able to do that. I have owned the boat since new so no one has played with it. Thank You again Mike, I will be listening to your knowledge.

Hello to you all, I am having that same problem. I have recently brought that bassmasters classic tr-21x with a Yamaha 250. I have a tempest 27 pitch prop with a 8 inch omc jackplate. The boat will start to chime walk around 65mph. Thinking about getting a 10inch jackplate and buying a 27 pitch fury prop and advise?

I run a 2001 triton 200 xp center console with a 08 225 pro xs. I had the same problem with chine walk for a long time. The best info. I could give to anyone would be seat time. The more you run the boat the more comfortable you should be with it. As far as driving thru it you can but you have to have the jack plate setup right if not you will get on the back pad and the front will fall causing the boat to porpoise. When driving thru chine walking when the boat goes left put a small amount of tension to the right the same is true when the boat goes right put a small amount of pressure to the left. My 200xp likes to run bow high so when the chine walk starts which is around 65 I counter steer thru it while trimming to full trim and the chine will stop around 72 or so and from there to 77-78 she will ride like a Cadillac. Hope this helps

Has their been another thread started by mike about the 17-18ft boats or have I missed it? I have an 18pro with no jack plate but there's one in the mail looking for the setup details

I too am interested in the discussion on 18's! Did it happen? Where would it be?z

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slatts

Has their been another thread started by mike about the 17-18ft boats or have I missed it? I have an 18pro with no jack plate but there's one in the mail looking for the setup details

---

digging up this old thread of good info, it looks like mike hasnt checked in here in a couple years

Just a response to the heading of this general post...after 3 Tritons I can tell ya...it ain't no myth.

Tried to read every post but the ADD just wont let me. My question is will the speed increase after you "drive" thru the chine? I am helping my boss with his 2016 21footer with 250. I got it to 68 and the chine bothered me. If he or I learn to drive thru it will the speed increase?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim

Tried to read every post but the ADD just wont let me. My question is will the speed increase after you "drive" thru the chine? I am helping my boss with his 2016 21footer with 250. I got it to 68 and the chine bothered me. If he or I learn to drive thru it will the speed increase?

---

Slim, mine will chine EVERY single time at 70 no matter what i do). Previous boat it was rare to ever have chine... but i never broke past 64 in that boat.. So learning to drive this new Triton Trx 20 is bit of a chore.

It ain’t rocket science, if I can do it, anybody can. Chine walking is kind of always there once the boat gets up on pad and the front end starts floating out there. The thing no one ever explained to me and there’s absolutely zero videos that reference this is.... When you bump the wheel to correct the walking, it takes about a Half a second before the boat will react...SO, when it pushes left, you turn left, give it a half second to respond then it will push right, you push right, give it a half second to respond and the process keeps going for as long as you are near top speed. At this point it will become a rhythm that you will cycle with the boat as it’s pushing back and forth. Sometimes around 69 or 70 my boat will quit it and will drive straight and true but occasionally I feel it start to move and I will correct it. It is always there and you maintain it, it never really goes away. Most people, myself included, as soon as the boat starts to move they expect it to be an immediate fix when you bump the wheel, it’s not immediate. You have to trust for a half a second that the boat is going to react to your input without you freezing up or letting out of the throttle. Hold it, bump it, trust it.

I’ve had other boats that didn’t walk and they didn’t seem to ride as well either. The Triton handles rough water at speed better than any boat out there, period. I’ve been a co-angler in several other models of boats and they all suck compared to my Triton and that’s just the facts.

Learn to drive it and feel what it’s doing and it is the best boat out there.There is no magic setup or magic measurement, these are all just starting points. If you wanna go fast, you better be able to control the boat. It is no different than hitting a wake at 70 miles per hour from a 45 degree side angle, you don’t just sit back and plow into them, you hit them and jerk the wheel back and forth to keep the boat from digging in, chine walk is a very similar principle, you have to drive the freakin boat.

You can run the jack plate up to about 2 1/2 or 2 5/8 inches below pad and it will almost minimize the walk to nothing, however, your speed will suffer. This is what I did first and realized I was headed in the wrong direction. As I’ve seen posted in all kinds of posts on here, seat time is the best time.... good luck.

My boat is a 2018 Triton 21 TRx Elite with a 2018 Optimax 250 ProXS, running a 25 Fury with no holes plugged, Atlas hydraulic Jack Plate, 2 - 8 foot poles. 12” HDS live on console and bow, 9” Panoptix on bow, Ultrex, Ionic Lithium’s for cranking and trolling, tournament rigged and ready it will run 69-70 all day.