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  1. #1
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    Mercury 150 2.5 XR6 Hard to start!

    Hey guys i just baught a new bass boat with this motor. Took it out and it was hard to start. Figured it was bc it was 2 stroke and cold natured. Well, got it going and went a few miles shut her down fished and played hell starting her back up. Had to take plugs out and turn it over and clean it out. Thin she fired up. LIke it was flooded or something. When it sets a day or over night i can go prime bubble and choke for maybe 5 seconds and it will not start at all. Take plugs back out clean fuel out cylinders, reinstall and after a couple tries to clean plugs she will fire up. Every hit of key after that she cranks.

    What do u guys think? Bad fuel pump diaphram? Will replace plugs and see if that helps any. Not sure if that is the poblem. Compression is 110psi on all cylinders. I have spark to all cylinders via spark tester. I read vapor lock could be a issue with these motors also.

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  3. Member
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    Sep 2004
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    Old River- Winfree , TEXAS
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    #2
    Hi Brandon welcome to BBC,
    A hard to start motor can be several things, first I always start out with the cheapest less labor intensive thing to try and change. First I would change out to the OEM suggested NEW spark plugs. I next would switch to a low ash 2 cycle oil ( Pennzoil 2 cycle blend ) Next make sure battery is hot and healthy. Check your fuel filters to make sure they are clean and have no water contamination. Make sure you choke is not malfuntioning . Check fuel bulb, and fuel vapor pump for good order. IF the motor is so equipted with injectors clean and service them that can cause a pile of issues. While the injectors are being serviced or carbs rebuilt I would, change out the reeds to a new set of TDR , I find them to be the best on the market for race to recreational use. I can order the reeds for you when needed , I suggest Don @ European Marine or Linda @ Brucato for injector servicing if so equipted, they have both been great for my customer injector needs. If carbed a rebuild would be in order by a compedent mechanic, I don't build hardly any carbed type engines so I'm not very versed on those but this is kinda of my generic things to do to any hard to start outboard.....

    Vapor lock a 2 cycle ??? I wouldn't think so!

    Good luck,
    Jay @ JSRE (Jay Smith Racing Engines )
    Last edited by JaySmithRacing; 05-31-2012 at 03:33 AM.

  4. Old School Basser mxmike's Avatar
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    #3
    Injectors in an XR-6 ??

  5. Member
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    #4
    yeah its carburated. I went out yesterday and it fired right up without choking it any. I just primed the bulb full. I think i might have been flooding it before. Its really smokey when it first starts tho. Sound like it has a small skip to it at the same time. PLugs and new fuel line will be getting replaced tomorrow.

  6. Old School Basser mxmike's Avatar
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    #5
    I have a 2001 XR6. I use Don Weed's starting procedure. It works!! Mine starts instantly and without the need for any throttle. Even cold conditions.

    1) pump ball firm before every start.
    2) trim motor to level position
    3) hold in choke for a looong 10 coun.t 1-1000-1,,,,1-1000-2 ect.
    4) let out key and start.

    Might want to also change the little fuel filter under the cowling while your at it. Good luck !

  7. Member cajunrgfm's Avatar
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    ottawa
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    #6
    They dont have chokes either, thats an enrichener valve you are pushing on, it squirts fuel into the rear of the carbs. No such thing as choke flaps on a late 80's v6 or inline 6

  8. Upper Chesapeake Bay Club Moderator RiverRatMD's Avatar
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    #7
    Any running issue on a new to you boat-drain & clean the fuel tank BEFORE adding anymore fuel!!!!!!!!!
    You can run off a remote tank of fuel with ITS OWN line and bulb to rule out fuel tank issues.

    You say you're doing Fuel lines & plugs tomorrow...smart! Lines should be done tank-to-motor..all the way to the pulse pump. Don't forget the new bulb! Make sure the engine is LEVEL when starting. Also, good idea to clean your carbs/piston tops with decarbonizor sprayed into carbs (directions on the can).
    '02 Gambler 2200 & '92 ProCraft 180 Power'd by Mercury

    http://hazzardcountybassmasters.com

  9. Member
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    #8
    Ok guys here is an update. Finally took it back out after setting for a few months. Redid timing and linc and sync. Installed new regulator which has battery charging like it should be. Got to river started up ran good and got prop slip on hole shot. Which I can figure out later. Ran great shut her down floated for thirty mins played hell starting up. Primed bulb and long ten second count with squirted pressed in and took a couple tries with fast idle all the way up to start. Just gets aggravating tryin to fish thin crank. Read about stator?

    I also idled along in gear for maybe an hour no issues and no stalls. Just hard to start after a drive. Thoughts?

  10. Member
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    #9
    Hey guys I ran the boat on the hose today just to look things over once more. Took a minute or two to start pissin water. Seemed to get very hot almost to hot to touch. Thermostats have been changed before bc u can see the new gasket material. So I pulled lower gear case off to inspect water pump. Impeller is worn a lot. Rubber impellers are warped and looked to have been worn on edges. Ordered a new rebuild kit that should be here Friday.

    Now could the motor be getting a lil to hot which could make it hard to start? Havnt had any alarms go off. By the way how long should it take to piss water? Thanks guys.

  11. Member
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    #10
    Can mods please move this thread into the stock mercury section thanks.

  12. Member
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    #11
    no body has any input on this?

  13. Member
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    #12
    A couple of thoughts....
    1. The cooling system. Controlled by the pump, therms and poppet, the tell-tale will range from barely a dribble to a scalding hot stream of water, and everything in between. Yes, the block wll feel hot. Remove and replace the poppet valve, and be sure it moves in and out of the block with little resistance. Operating pressures should be NO LESS than 15psi at WOT.
    2. Starting procedure. Carb'ed Merc V's love a little throttle after a brief shut-down. Advance throttle slightly when cranking when hot. Vapor lock, sure is possible with the E-10 fuels we are stuck with. If it gets THAT hot where you are, get in the habit of pumping the primer a couple times EVEN IF IT'S SHUT-DOWN FOR A 1/2 HOUR OR SO. Make sure motor is vertical. If it's tilted either negative {rich condition will occur} or positive {lean condition will occur} it will either assist or hinder a start. Another tip...once you develop the "technique", they are one of the easiest motors around to start. You will soon learn the engine, and have a feel for the motor.
    3. I would replace the fuel line, primer bulb, and pulse fuel pump. The pulse pump is designed to develop approx 10psi. Be sure all fuel lines and bleed hoses are in good shape and properly tie-wrapped.

  14. Member
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    #13
    I'm gonna tell you a simple fix that I tried with my 99' XR6 150. It was hell to start after sitting and fishing a while. I found out my fuel ball was allowing the fuel to drain back down into the tank instead of holding pressure. I changed the ball and boom! I have not had a problem since.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=35713&dateline=136388  7855
    99' NITRO NX 882-MERCURY XR6 150
    LOWRANCE-MOTORGUIDE TS
    ------------------RTR------------------

  15. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by redline View Post
    A couple of thoughts....
    1. The cooling system. Controlled by the pump, therms and poppet, the tell-tale will range from barely a dribble to a scalding hot stream of water, and everything in between. Yes, the block wll feel hot. Remove and replace the poppet valve, and be sure it moves in and out of the block with little resistance. Operating pressures should be NO LESS than 15psi at WOT.
    2. Starting procedure. Carb'ed Merc V's love a little throttle after a brief shut-down. Advance throttle slightly when cranking when hot. Vapor lock, sure is possible with the E-10 fuels we are stuck with. If it gets THAT hot where you are, get in the habit of pumping the primer a couple times EVEN IF IT'S SHUT-DOWN FOR A 1/2 HOUR OR SO. Make sure motor is vertical. If it's tilted either negative {rich condition will occur} or positive {lean condition will occur} it will either assist or hinder a start. Another tip...once you develop the "technique", they are one of the easiest motors around to start. You will soon learn the engine, and have a feel for the motor.
    3. I would replace the fuel line, primer bulb, and pulse fuel pump. The pulse pump is designed to develop approx 10psi. Be sure all fuel lines and bleed hoses are in good shape and properly tie-wrapped.


    http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=35713&dateline=136388  7855
    99' NITRO NX 882-MERCURY XR6 150
    LOWRANCE-MOTORGUIDE TS
    ------------------RTR------------------

  16. Old School Basser mxmike's Avatar
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    #15
    You should re-post this in the Mercury forum.You need Don Weed on this one. Anyway in the mean time, as I have the same motor here's a few questions.

    1) Just to verify your compression #'s.When you did a compression test, did you let the motor get up to operating temp before doing the test? If you did the test on a cold motor, I would take it again with the motor warmed up just to verify the compression.

    2) When you turn the key to the on position do you get the test beep? I assume you have a service manual for your motor as you said you did the synk & link.( did you do it as per the service manual using a dial indicator ??) In the manual there is a test procedure to check the motor overheat alarm buzzer.

    It will take some time before the thermostats will open and start pissin water. May take a few minutes or longer and when they open the tell tail stream will be very hot. Hot enough to scald your hand. I think 140 degrees or so .. I would think if your getting a good flow of water and have the appropriate water pressure it's not running hot. Running it on the water hose isn't the best way to find this out as the garden hose pressure could distort water pressure readings and flow. (You do have a working water pressure gauge, right?)

    As for the hard starting. IF FOR SURE you have good/ sufficient compression, good quality fuel, have checked and replaced if necessary all fuel lines and primer bulb.Checked filter, Verified spark and installed new NGK spark plugs and it still gives you problems starting. I would then look at the carbs and floats. ( (clean,rebuild and reset) as per service manual. While I had the carbs off I would also replace the reeds but that's just me.

    Good luck.

  17. Member
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    #16
    As others said, 1) pump ball firm before every start.
    2) trim motor to level position
    3) hold in choke for a looong 10 coun.t 1-1000-1,,,,1-1000-2 ect.
    4) let out key and start.

    I level my motor FIRST.. then pump the ball.. then hold the enricher in for 8-10 ACTUAL seconds.. Let it go.. I press the hotfoot about 1/8-1/4 inch to just move the butterflies a little and start her up. Works every time.

    and as someone else said, once you learn it, you know it

  18. Member
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by mxmike View Post
    Injectors in an XR-6 ??

    Right :lol:

  19. Member
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    #18
    Two items to check

    One, wiwth the motor level and NOT running, open the throttle to WOT remove the air silencer so you can see straight into the carb throats, pump the primer like you normally do watching for ANY fuel leaking into any carb throat. If so rebuild the carbs paying particular attention to needle and seat seal and float level adjustment.

    Two, cranking speed. Over time cranking speed gradually reduces, due to starter brush wear and/or battery cable connection corrosion. Make sure all connections are clean bright and tight on both ends, including the starter cable. Clean the starter, check brush length, lightly sand the commutator to restore a smooth round and clean surface, lightly lube the starter bushings.

  20. Member
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by blackgts2002 View Post
    As others said, 1) pump ball firm before every start.
    2) trim motor to level position
    3) hold in choke for a looong 10 coun.t 1-1000-1,,,,1-1000-2 ect.
    4) let out key and start.

    I level my motor FIRST.. then pump the ball.. then hold the enricher in for 8-10 ACTUAL seconds.. Let it go.. I press the hotfoot about 1/8-1/4 inch to just move the butterflies a little and start her up. Works every time.

    and as someone else said, once you learn it, you know it
    +1

  21. Member
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    Labelle, FL
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    #20
    I have a 99 XR6 and have the same Problems starting after I stop to fish for a bit. From what I'm reading it seems to be pretty common.

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