Thread: Walk in shower?

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  1. #1
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    USA Walk in shower?

    I am about to remodel my master bath. I want to install a walk in shower. Where is the best place to get one. Checked at lowes and the depot just didn't find what I am looking for. Thanks.

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  3. Member hroberts07's Avatar
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    #2
    Build one..... tile. Use a schluter shower system
    2010 NITRO Z8 w/ 225 OPTI

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    #3
    Definitely build one... Prefab ones look way cheapo. Find some nice tile and as stated use the Schluter system, or concrete board if you are not going to be in the home for 10+ years. Price of the tile will greatly influence the overall price. The sky is the limit on the tile.

  5. Member Bsktball55's Avatar
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    #4
    When you use the schluter system, do you install the membrane over drywall, or do you put concrete board over the drywall or do you put concrete board directly over the studs? I've seen examples of all three ways.



  6. Member snowblind's Avatar
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    #5
    Ive always ran the membrane up the studs about 16 inches and placed Durorock directly to the studs. I build the entrance up to 4 and 1/2 inches which is just 3 2×4's nailed on top of each other since we use 4inch tile and saves on cutting. They make a precast for the the bottom which already is sloped for the drain. Its code in our area to use it the precast then to slope it with thin set or mortar now.

  7. Member snowblind's Avatar
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    #6
    The membrane only gets nailed at the top. One roofing nail per stud

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    #7
    I do this type of work for a living been at it for 25 years. If you build a custom tile shower the Floor is the heart of the project make sure it is water tight.
    I always build a floor starting with a PVC vynle liner flashed up the walls 6-8 inches only place it should be cut is at the three piece shower drain, then you can mud your floor in on top of it. I also always pour a concrete curb, the liner is flashed up in side the curb, no way water can get out. I put cement board on the walls directly to the studs then your ready to tile.

  9. Member Bsktball55's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Kennedy View Post
    I do this type of work for a living been at it for 25 years. If you build a custom tile shower the Floor is the heart of the project make sure it is water tight.
    I always build a floor starting with a PVC vynle liner flashed up the walls 6-8 inches only place it should be cut is at the three piece shower drain, then you can mud your floor in on top of it. I also always pour a concrete curb, the liner is flashed up in side the curb, no way water can get out. I put cement board on the walls directly to the studs then your ready to tile.
    So do you not have to put the vinyl liner all the way up the walls? The examples I have seen show the vinyl every where there is tile. But those are from the manufacturer so of course they want you to use more of their product.



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    #9
    You don't have to put the liner any higher then 6-8 inches up from the floor. Your cement board( hardi-backer) will do the rest all you have to do is tape all the joints with thin set and fiberglass tape.

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    #10
    I would read carefully about whether or not Backer board is water proof, I prefer either using red guard on the backer board or running 6 mil plastic behind it but not both ......google will show both options

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    #11
    I build 10 - 15 showers a year like I described above and have never had a leak. NEVER. By the time you get the tile on and grouted water is not going to get to your backer board. This product is designed for this type of application. Sheetrock or anything with plastic involved will lead to mold and mildew, I know this for I have tore hundred of so called custom shower and tub areas out over the last 25 years.

  13. Member snowblind's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mikepags View Post
    I would read carefully about whether or not Backer board is water proof, I prefer either using red guard on the backer board or running 6 mil plastic behind it but not both ......google will show both options
    Durorock Cement board is

  14. Member haha's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by mikepags View Post
    I would read carefully about whether or not Backer board is water proof, I prefer either using red guard on the backer board or running 6 mil plastic behind it but not both ......google will show both options
    Durarock and Hardiboard are 100% waterproof. Actually any spare pieces I store outside so it doesnt take up space in my work shed.
    All seams and corners must be meshed taped and then thinset applied over the tape before tiling. It is recommended that plastic be placed over studs for added moisture protection before applying the backer board to the walls. 1/2" is used for the walls.
    On the floor a layer of thinset is needed and the backer board bedded in the thinset then screwed down per specs. I usually use 1/4" Hardi or Durarock on the floor if I know the sub floor is 3/4" or more and joist 16" oc.
    1996 ProCraft 185 DC Pro, Mercury EFI 150

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    #14
    I should have worded that differently, the material is not effected by water, but it does allow moisture to pass through it, which is why the plastic goes over the studs or a product like red guard is used.......

    I walked through a friend's house that he was remodeling to flip and the "contractor" layed all the backer board using ring shank nails (which I found out is "ok" but not for me) and instead of using thinset which was my biggest concern he said he put some liquid nails underneath it


    Quote Originally Posted by haha View Post
    Durarock and Hardiboard are 100% waterproof. Actually any spare pieces I store outside so it doesnt take up space in my work shed.
    All seams and corners must be meshed taped and then thinset applied over the tape before tiling. It is recommended that plastic be placed over studs for added moisture protection before applying the backer board to the walls. 1/2" is used for the walls.
    On the floor a layer of thinset is needed and the backer board bedded in the thinset then screwed down per specs. I usually use 1/4" Hardi or Durarock on the floor if I know the sub floor is 3/4" or more and joist 16" oc.
    Last edited by mikepags; 02-02-2013 at 09:53 AM.

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    #15

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    #16
    Would love to see some pictures of some finished. I'm removing a tub and replacing the entire space with a walk in shower.

  18. h20
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    #17
    Try Ferguson bath and kitchen gallery . We specialize in remodeling showers .

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    #18
    You need to go to the internet to see how the Schlater system and Redgard system works. To me, you can blow $750 on Schlater products in the blink of an eye. UTube has a bunch of shower installations illustrated. Many tile masons address building shower pans from scratch online.

    The layout of the shower is most important. Everything needs to be completely square in all directions, which often requires shims.

    You also need a special floor drain designed for showers. You must put a slightly wet layer of sand/portland cement in the bottom perfectly flat and angled to the drain with a 1/4" per foot angle. It'll harden overnight. I'll stop there and let you read about shower pans online. Instructions get a little long to put on here.

    I have a close friend that's a very large tile contractor, and he swears by Redgard--sealing up the walls, floors and corners. It's expensive, but worth every penny. Home Depot carries it in the flooring department.

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    #19
    do yourself a favor and keep the durock at the supply house. get you a kerdi shower kit if you're going to build a walk in tile shower. We do 2-3 stand up tile showers a week. have for the past 10 years. Never had 1 leak, never had 1 mold, never had 1 fall apart. More expensive than durock, but its easier to install and is 100x better than any other way to waterproof a shower!

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    #20
    For the shower base you can purchase cultured marble one piece bases made to your specs. Variety of colors to match your tile, the drain can be placed where you want it or the standard center drain. The outside edge has a tile flange so no need for a membrane. Takes a lot of work out of building a shower. I've installed many of these and have had excellent results. Also no grout to scrub because of soiled feet.

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