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  1. #1
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    1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration

    Hi Everyone. Well to give you some background. I needed a project to do around the house and I have plenty of time. I am a Disabled Veteran and still undergoing medical treatment so I am not working. My lovely wife tells me we cannot afford a boat. So I do the next best thing and I find this poor negleted 1984 ProCraft that needs a complete restoration. I am currently doing the restoration but I decided to post and document because I am getting ready to start the cap and this is where I believe I may need some help. So feel free to jump in at any time with any suggestion or comments.
    Thank you
    Leon


    This is what she looked like the day I got her.



    The Floor was covered with a piece of plywood, so i removed it to find this. Water has been pouring into the hull.




    Your Freedom was not Free! Remember our Military men and women and all our Veterans!

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    #2

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Well I got the floor cut out and went around to find all the areas where fiberglass was holding the cap to the hull. Pretty much anywhere there was a storage box or a live well and the entire floor area. The transom was heavily attached, I think they attached the cap to the hull while the transom was still wet. Even with all of that cut loose I had to use a winch and a tree to lift the cap. It finally gave using the weight of the boat.



    And here is the Hull!








    Some more pictures of the cap


    The floor cut away




    Well time to get to rebuilding

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  4. Moderator 21XDC's Avatar
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    #3

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Thats gonna be alot of work, But you will have a nice one when your done. Brings back memories. I owned a 1984 1650V ProCraft in blue and silver.

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    #4

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (21XDC)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 21XDC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thats gonna be alot of work, But you will have a nice one when your done. Brings back memories. I owned a 1984 1650V ProCraft in blue and silver. </TD></TR></TABLE>

    Yes indeed, lots of work and lots of fiberglass!
    I am having fun, I just wish it was not so HOT.



    Modified by lpkirby at 9:15 AM 7/6/2009
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    #5

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    A lot of work ahead! But it is fun ... If I were you I would put some more support under the middle of that top cap or its gonna bend like a pretzel. You can see a bend at the front in the photos already. Also get some more support on that trailer or your gonna lose the shape of the hull when you take all the timber out of the boat. Take lots of measurements of stringer heights before removal other wise you wont get the floor the right height and you wont get the cap down. Good luck

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    #6

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Here is the outer skin of the transom. I have placed a thin layer of cloth and resin over the skin. Also I have removed the floatation foam boxes that sit on either side of the transom.



    I am now starting to remove the stringers, which are all toast. It cant believe that the wood is completely gone in huge sections with only a fiberglass shell left to hold up the deck.




    More to come



    Modified by lpkirby at 9:15 AM 7/6/2009
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    #7

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (ianl)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ianl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A lot of work ahead! But it is fun ... If I were you I would put some more support under the middle of that top cap or its gonna bend like a pretzel. You can see a bend at the front in the photos already. Also get some more support on that trailer or your gonna lose the shape of the hull when you take all the timber out of the boat. Take lots of measurements of stringer heights before removal other wise you wont get the floor the right height and you wont get the cap down. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

    Thanks,
    Yes I went back and supported the cap with straps and 2x6's under it so that it will maintain its shape. I have taken hundreds of photos and hundreds of measurements. That is my biggest fear to get to the end and the cap will not fit. I believe all is well.



    Modified by lpkirby at 9:15 AM 7/6/2009
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    #8

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    After thinking things over, I decided to do one half of the boat at a time for insurance purposes. Call it my security blanket, between my pics and my measurements I can also look at the other side.



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    #9

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Transom going in.


    This is the space behind the Transom, it was originally filled with cut foam. I decided to pour 2 part mix floatation foam in.






    This Floatation Foam stuff is really cool stuff, very nasty but cool. I could of had some fun with this stuff as a teen

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    #10

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Time to start on the port side.





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    #11

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Got a Question? I am Brainstorming ahead a little. I need to work on the trailer, so how is the best way to left the hull to slide the trailer out from under it?
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    #12

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lpkirby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got a Question? I am Brainstorming ahead a little. I need to work on the trailer, so how is the best way to left the hull to slide the trailer out from under it?</TD></TR></TABLE>


    This what one person said:

    http://www.bbcboards.net...ailer

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    #13

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (Fishingtomatoseed)

    yea I saw that, just i thought there had to be an easier way? Oh well
    Thanks,

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    #14

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    I am starting to pour the floatation foam and to start laying the floor.













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    #15

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Im not so sure if you're supposed to put in the plywood for the flooring lengthwise... Im afraid that with that much of stress a hull typically go through, you'd see the flooring split lengthwise... From what I have seen and learned thru this forum and my own boat, boatmakers tend to do sections (crosswise), not lengthwise...

    What I would have done was cut out sections to make sure that one piece meets both sides... and glass over the gap cross-wise between the plywoods... that would add more strength and lessen the hull-flex... Just an suggestion to keep close eye on that...

    Otherwise... excellent job!!! Keep us posted!!!

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    #16

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (Rebel9921)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rebel9921 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not so sure if you're supposed to put in the plywood for the flooring lengthwise... Im afraid that with that much of stress a hull typically go through, you'd see the flooring split lengthwise... From what I have seen and learned thru this forum and my own boat, boatmakers tend to do sections (crosswise), not lengthwise...

    What I would have done was cut out sections to make sure that one piece meets both sides... and glass over the gap cross-wise between the plywoods... that would add more strength and lessen the hull-flex... Just an suggestion to keep close eye on that...

    Otherwise... excellent job!!! Keep us posted!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

    Should I cut it out now and redo it?? I doubt I have the room to go over the top of it with anoth sheet unless it is super thin stuff. I am planning on putting another floor section down once the cap is in place where the caps fiberglass floor was cut out. What do you think? I am at that point because I painted the floor and bilge areas today.

    Thanks





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  18. Member Jig A Low's Avatar
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    #17

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lpkirby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

    Should I cut it out now and redo it?? I doubt I have the room to go over the top of it with anoth sheet unless it is super thin stuff. I am planning on putting another floor section down once the cap is in place where the caps fiberglass floor was cut out. What do you think? I am at that point because I painted the floor and bilge areas today.

    Thanks





    </TD></TR></TABLE>

    I'm no boat expert by a long shot but know something about wood. I wouldn't worry too much about the plywood orientation, ply is manufactured with the grain running opposite of the layer on top of it. it is incredably strong in either direction.
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    #18

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (lpkirby)

    Nah... just saying what I would've done... Important thing is that you were alerted to this so you can keep a closer eye on how it goes... Also, another thing popped up in my mind... I hope you did glass the underside of the plywood well... because way it looks, you're covering the bilge area... and we all know that when it gets hot, moisture will be absorbed by the plywood... The flooring on my boat was completely rotten in the area where it was covering the bilge... turns out that Tracker Marine only glassed the topside of the flooring, not the underside at all.. which is a big mistake I definitely will correct on my restoration...

    Your planning on adding plywood in that area after replacing the topcap should help... but then again, its unneccesary to add more weight to the boat if its not gonna do anything... i.e. strengthen or reinforce the hull/transom/flooring... more weight on the boat could mean loss of top end speed, longer to get on plane, loss of handling ability, more hull flexing which can do more harm than good...

    Sprint is correct about how plywood are made adds to its strength... but to clarify on what I meant... it would be better if both ends of the plywood was touching both sides instead of one side touching the hull, other side touching the stringer, then "jointed" with other plywood on that same stringer with the end of the other plywood touching the other side of the hull, if you know what I mean??? To do this way would mean that there will be a gap resting on top of the stringer... and the fiberglass could flex more right there at the joint... rather than having both ends being fiberglassed on both sides, thus holding the hull together, for less flexing... Hope this makes it clearer on what I was pointing out...

  20. Member Jig A Low's Avatar
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    #19

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (Rebel9921)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rebel9921 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah... just saying what I would've done... Important thing is that you were alerted to this so you can keep a closer eye on how it goes... Also, another thing popped up in my mind... I hope you did glass the underside of the plywood well... because way it looks, you're covering the bilge area... and we all know that when it gets hot, moisture will be absorbed by the plywood... The flooring on my boat was completely rotten in the area where it was covering the bilge... turns out that Tracker Marine only glassed the topside of the flooring, not the underside at all.. which is a big mistake I definitely will correct on my restoration...

    Your planning on adding plywood in that area after replacing the topcap should help... but then again, its unneccesary to add more weight to the boat if its not gonna do anything... i.e. strengthen or reinforce the hull/transom/flooring... more weight on the boat could mean loss of top end speed, longer to get on plane, loss of handling ability, more hull flexing which can do more harm than good...

    Sprint is correct about how plywood are made adds to its strength... but to clarify on what I meant... it would be better if both ends of the plywood was touching both sides instead of one side touching the hull, other side touching the stringer, then "jointed" with other plywood on that same stringer with the end of the other plywood touching the other side of the hull, if you know what I mean??? To do this way would mean that there will be a gap resting on top of the stringer... and the fiberglass could flex more right there at the joint... rather than having both ends being fiberglassed on both sides, thus holding the hull together, for less flexing... Hope this makes it clearer on what I was pointing out...</TD></TR></TABLE>


    , gottcha, I did mis-understand. your right, it would have been better to set the plywood the other direction to keep from having a joint on the stringer.
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    #20

    Re: 1984 ProCraft 1650V Restoration (Rebel9921)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rebel9921 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah... just saying what I would've done... Important thing is that you were alerted to this so you can keep a closer eye on how it goes... Also, another thing popped up in my mind... I hope you did glass the underside of the plywood well... because way it looks, you're covering the bilge area... and we all know that when it gets hot, moisture will be absorbed by the plywood... The flooring on my boat was completely rotten in the area where it was covering the bilge... turns out that Tracker Marine only glassed the topside of the flooring, not the underside at all.. which is a big mistake I definitely will correct on my restoration...
    </TD></TR></TABLE>

    Roger That! I did glass the underside with 2 layers before placing the floor down.
    Also I do not have a picture of it but all the stringers are connected together at the tops with plywood that is glassed. So really the top plywood is not sitting on just stringers. I know I added a little extra weight there, but I did not want the floor bulging at all when it was finished.

    As far as the plywood on the floor of the cap, I am going to play that by ear for now until I see how the cap fits back down.

    Well the hull is finished except for the flotation foam in the two back boxes. I had to order more from Jamestown. Tomorrow I am going to lift the hull to remove the trailer and begin to strip and weld steps and fenders on it and paint it. After that rewire the cap and prep it for my first attempt at Gel Coating. So I still have a few weeks left .

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